Reinhoud

Probably only friends so they think they get a cheap roof over their head when in the UK.

Some Dutch friends by the looks of it.

You're talking about a motor, and about Suzuki engine parts, it must be a hybrid! Motors run on electricity / oil / air, when it runs on fuel it's an engine.

Nice one indeed. But doesn't beat mine.

This man has a lot of stuff, also intake manifolds or air cleaners, for sale, very reasonable prices.

I just had a look, clutch basket of a GS1000 / GSX1100 have 87 teeth, too much diference unfortunately..

I've read that somewhere too, but are they just as strong as aftermarket ones? I also have a smaller rear wheel, I've got a rear fork off a Bandit 1200 in it, so a smaller rear sprocket is not an option, I also made a hydraulic clutch on it, so a bigger front sprocket is also a bit of an issue.. If I look on the internet, you find billet clutch baskets on the stock gear, straight cut gears on almost stock engines, it's all over the show! But if I spend some money, then all the weak links aren't as weak anymore.

I know, I'm going to put 493 Katana rods on the crank, so I wanted to know before I press the crank apart and together. Clutch is also not a problem, nothing I haven't done before.

Replace the oil, and let it run for a long time! Then replace oil again

It's a GS1000 with a GSX1100 clutch.. I'm not aiming for 200+ HP, but you never know where you end up. Thanks, Straight cut gears are sold for 425 USD, so probably something to spend some $$$ on.

Gents, Not sure if I ask my question here or in Forced induction.. I've built a turbocharger on my GS1000, and what I was afraid of happened, engine destroyed, conrod snapped. Now I'm going to put stronger rods in, but I'm still not sure about the clutch, I had a lock up on it, I didn't had any problems with it. So, how much HP and/or Nm can a stock GSX1100 clutch handle? Thanks.

Ah, ok. Thanks!

Nice! Mate of mine had one, I loved it!

What's wrong with kevlar and carbon frictions? No experience with either off them.. Just curious.

I've had Mikuni RS34's on my GS1000, I didn't noticed if it had more power (from 26 to 34mm), but the throttle response was insane.

Oh, if you do a top end oiler, make sure you connect it to the feed line in the head, I've seen photo's on the www from someone who bolted it on the return, and he didn't even realized that he did do it wrong.

No, measure diameter of hole trough cylinder, calculate surface area (square mm), do the same with the stud, retract one from another. Calculate surface area thicker stud, retract one from another. Now you calculate what size you need to drill the hole, I had to drill mine 1mm larger. Oh, make sure you got enough material left before you start drilling. Drill cylinder and cylinder head. Not hard when you have a drill press

Also go with a higher compression ratio, you'll notice the difference!

Does it really matter what model it is? I've read once that the E in GS1000E means it's build in 1979.

Ah, thanks. I'm not after big hp numbers. Keeping it in piece is the main goal, I'm afraid it happens again..

I had that turbo charger on mine, it spooled up at 5000rpm, and at 5500 rpm it went flat out.. Next turbo I put on is going to be smaller. This one is from an Lancer EVO III?

Is the crankcase limited in how much power it can handle?

Thanks guys, so I'll use the 493 rods then.. I'ts going to be a slow process, again..

Depends what you want. I think it's about as big as the turbo I had on my bike, TD05 (Lancer EVO III), 1245cc, it started spooling up at 5000rpm, and started really kicking in at 5500rpm. When you were riding it at normal speeds the turbo wouldn't really kick in, but when you hit the 5500 line...

The info I gave wasn't right. An automatic tensioner should go tighter when there is a loose part in the cam chain. When you you loosen the screw of the tensioner, the tensioner should be able to go less tight.. Good you fixed it