Reinhoud

First thing you do is disable the acceleration pump, than you stick an O2 sensor in your exhaust, and read on an A/F gauge what your A/F is, than you see where and how much your mixture is of..

In The Netherlands mopeds have, by law, no more than 50cc ans a carburetor not bigger than 12mm and a stock exhaust, not going any faster than 40km/h.... ( I think a maximum of 0.5 kW) Reality was more like, put a 70cc big bore on it with a 16 / 20 or bigger mm carburetor on it, aftermarket exhaust on it. Even better was to get a 80 or 125cc engine from Germany ( the laws were different there), ten your moped would go somewhere in between 80 to 130km/h.... Those good ol' days...

They're not little, they have only 50cc...

A Suzuki TS50 is a moped... At least, in The Netherlands it is... I've riden a couple back in the days, they go alright with a 70cc big bore on it, when you're 16/17 y.o.

I've got a Dyno 2000 ignition on my GS1000, the only reason I bought it is because it's adjustable. If you don't have a good reason for using it, I would use the stock ignition...

Nice bike! Put a GT750 engine in it.

You're not wrong! But you make it more complicated than it is. That's probably not the right way to say it, you can get there "in a different way". I hope you get what I mean.

I did some calculating when I did my conversion, I have duty spring and I put them in with spacers, real tight,went real heavy!! So, I bought a master cylinder from a Bandit 1250 and a slave from a Bandit 1200, did some calculations, according to my calculations the clutch should go half as heavy... I also calculated how heavy the clutch would/should go when cable operated, the only thing I didn't know how to calculate, of was sure of if it would matter is the from rotating to linear conversion. The clutch went lighter indeed, by feel it could indeed be about half of before. So, I ended up in a discussion with someone, and then you get that moment, I just have to know, not to prove you're right, but just to know how it goes, the physics of it.. So, back into the shed with my calculator ruler and vernier. Turns out that the pressure plate came out only 3mm when hydraulic, instead of the over 6 mm when cable operated.

Read again what you wrote, you write down what I said, if you change the diameter of the cylinders, you also change the travel. It's all about the ratio of travel travel between lever on handle bars and travel of the clutch pressure plate, in what way you change the travel doesn't matter. I've had a discussion regarding this one time, both stubborn, both had our own way, so I started calculating, in the end we both were right. The difference was that we had a different way to get to the end result. When TS wants his clutch to go lighter, he has to make sure his pressure plate travels less far, if he does that by putting a longer lever on the control on the clutch cover, or different size master or slave cylinder doesn't matter. If you don't believe, just start calculating.

Why? I give details, I tell why. Why is my post condescending, and the post I replied to not?

You need to change the travel, if you keep that the same, it won't go any lighter. When you make the clutch pressure plate travel less far, your clutch will go lighter, that's what I mean. And the travel is related to the diameter of the master and the slave cylinder. You can calculate is through the diameters of both cylinders, but calculating via travel goes easier and quicker and the results are the same. So again, if your pressure plate has the same amount of travels as before, it won't go any easier. I converted my clutch to hydraulic, I did my homework.

It's not lighter because you have the same lever, so it still makes the same stroke. I copied one from a Bandit, and build that on my GS1000, and that works lighter.

when I had a 1085 big bore high comp on my one, the starter was struggling too...

can't you put new carbon brushes in it?

Twin spark. You're on the money, wired in series.

Oh, I thought he just wanted filters what fit straight on the carbies..

ask Buzz from Dynoman Performance in the US, he has a cheaper version of the K&N, just as good, half the money

i've got 4 coils on my GS1000, the orange/brown ones, as far as I know they're the same size as the green ones. Mine fittet on the stock brackets. The other 2 I made behind the battery.

Ah, thanks. I thought it was something like that, but wasn't sure..

Isn't it easier to have a turbo charger then? Or do you get more power with nitrous?

That Garret one looks alright..

The idea is that I get a different spooling, the current one is too big. I'd like to have a TD04 size, but I have no idea what it compares to with the IHI ones. The IHI VF ones are ball bearining and quite affordable. What I could find on the net, is that the 23,24 and 29 are about the size what I'm after. If it can make about 250hp on the crank it's good, I'm not after real high numbers, I think when the engine blew up it had about 210/220hp on the crank, that was fast enough. I'll look into that Garret one. Thanks

May be ultrasonic testing. But whatever testing you do on it, I wouldn't trust it. With all the testing you can do on it, they're all to find porosity or cracks, you can't find out how strong the material is without breaking it. You won't find that with NDT

Guys, I need some advise... I'm looking into what sort of turbocharger to get, I had a TD05-16G on it, that's too big, boost came in about 4700rpm, and took another 1500rpm to get full torque. Now I'm thinking of a IHI VF one, they're ball bearing ones, the ones I think might be suitable are the 23 - 24 and 29. Anyone suggestions? Since a few months I have another job, which what I earn a bit more, and for my new boss I'm working in an aluminium plant for a few months, and with this job I have about 2.5 times more free to spend money as my old job in the orchard, my Land Rover is coming to an end, so I can spend a small fortune on my bike again. Meanwhile I have build a press, so I can go busy with building a stronger crankshaft