Duckndive

You can set a Hayes up various ways ....slider , throw away lock-up ...or normal "ish" lock up....... I agree not ideal for the road but as a normal "ish" lock-up it will "does" work.......

You don't have to pull the top end off to swap the crank.....splitting the cases to do the bottom end is a days work........ Can I ask why you opted for the Hays Convertible Clutch ?

Well the GSXR1100F was more of a lower power budget tourer style bike hence the helical gears and only 34mm carbs ...as opposed to the GSXR 1100 K , L and on which were sports bikes 36MM 38MM and later 40MM carbs all having straight cuts ......the B12 got straight cuts by virtue of being a K ,L motor with more cc but less punch in the cam dept.. If it helps I have a B12 crank that needs a regrind on one BE journal and I,m sure I have the matching clutch basket.... Big Power well 300 is a big hope on helical's IMHO ..... I put Straight cuts in my poxey 200 BHP air cooled motor

Big Power & Helical Gears not play together very well as it tends to push / send the clutch basket out the case's to change to straight cuts you need either a GSXR Crank and Clutch Basket or Blandit Crank & Basket.....

Does that not have Helical Primary Gears ?

OOOOh Bad News ..what set up was this on ?

You need it apart to get access to the pins and webs to weld them........as the bearings are in the way....... All depts. on how far you want to go with the welding..."factory is just about 25-30 mm on journal to the web" ......and they don't bother with the gear..... A full tilt FB or PS crank is normaly pinned and fully welded.......

You need the crank apart to do it properly.....

No.. but the starter motor and the intermediate gear are.................

None in parts book and never had problem

ET uses a shim on intermediate gear ...EFE don't.....

Don't think gert jan bike went past 270 ish bhp

And I,d bet none of them did .... Sean has always argued that folk should use the same settings / rules for dyno runs......he also posts videos of his HP runs......on u tube as well as faceache He can be a bit marmite but If Private Pike says it makes xxx Hp then it makes xxx Hp ...

Laptops cost peanuts compared to bikes............

No piston is safe if the tune-up is wrong.................

20mm

Its not the fastest motor getting oil up that high.......do you have oil going to the rockers ? assuming you are taking feed from the main gallery take the pipe off and see if you have oil at the feed connection ...and go from there ...

Maybe 2 mm...but its only there to dampen the rattle....

Just cut one from an O-Ring

Bandit has straight cuts its the 1100F power-screen motor that has helical

Sold it about 5 years ago...

The Micky Rooney also takes up more room than the S&S so normally ends up being mounted further away from the turbo which is not ideal ...

Yeap but get the ones without the balance pipes between 1-2 & 3-4

I fitted the S&S as its better for the 1/4 than the Micky Rooney ......which I also have and will run at some point But both have there pros & cons and can be made to work on the street...

Google said... Suzuki Motorcycle GS500 (K1,K2) 497cc 2001-2002 GS500E (K,L,M,N) 497cc 1989-1992 GS500E (K1,K2) 497cc 2001-2002 GS500E (P,R) 497cc 1993-1994 GS500E (S,T,V,W,X,Y) 497cc 1995-2000 GS500F 487cc 2004-2008 GSX-R750 (J,K,L) 750cc 1988-1990 GSX-R750 (M,N) 750cc 1991-1992 GSX750F (K,L,M,N) Katana 750cc 1989-1992 GSX750F (P) Katana 748cc 1993 GSX750F (R) Katana 748cc 1994 GSX750F (S,T,V) Katana 748cc 1995-1997 Suzuki Street Motorcycle GS500 487cc 1989-2002 GS500F 487cc 2004-2009 GSX-R750 749cc 1988-1992 GSX750F Katana 748cc 1989-1993 GSX750F Katana 748cc 1995-1997