jameskat

BY looks like tacho input, O is key on power (25A fuse on R)

Not a clue, sorry

Copied form a site called Krypt racer, now gone, but available without photos on waybackmachine 21/08/2016. Have never been fond of any of the OEM crossover clutch release offerings. Ditto with hyd clutch release set ups and all the extra related parts/problems. GS/EFE style rack/arm with a cable to operate offers the best feel and reliability. Came standard on oil cooled 750 R models 88-91. MTC spacer and reworked 1100 pusher is all it takes to convert with non- lockup applications. Use the oem clutch rack that comes with cover. If the smooth cover is used the clutch rack may have to be shortened slightly. MTC extended length clutch rack is required to clear the length of the weight arms on lock-up applications. CRG Supersport lever and OEM cable works flawlessly. A few clutch racks that are available.....Left to Right as follows; #1 is a slightly shorter modded srad unit that is needed if the smooth cover is used. #2 is a 88/89 750 R model that comes with the dimpled cover and can be used as/is. #3 came from a RF 900 w/ coil spring clutch. #4 is an extended length GS/EFE unit from MTC for use with lock up applications. The item on the far right is a modded 1100 hyd release unit. Remove the standard hump(?) and grind it just flush/flat, needs .003-.005 end play from backside of rack when everything is installed/tight.Bearings/shim(s) are OEM. May have to use 2 shims , then again maybe not. On the 89 750 cover w/MTC spacer everything went in as standard when using OEM pressure plate with out the lock up. Lock up install is still being sorted. Bit of trail & error here but worth it as the 750 rack/arm set up beats any of the OEM crossover pushrod installs. MTC spacers are about 90.00 US or so plus shipping. If no lock-up is used either the coil spring clutch or the later 89-up clutch in a 1052 basket is a straight forward install. Cut down hyd release pusher is there to keep the rack from falling in while installing the cover. Simple plug machined to the proper dims could also be used. 89 750 cover/rack on the left - Smooth cover and cut SRAD rack on the right. Cut 1100 pusher unit is a common as is the MTC 1.250 thick spacer.

Bolt 14 holds the shaft in place and the plug bolt in the head stops the pressurized oil escaping. I think that the thread was there to aid removal of the shaft, Is the other end solid?

Powerscreen has a helical cut gear on the basket where as the bandit is straight cut, I know it doesn't answer your question.

Just ideas:- Falicon rods Busa and not gsxr1100 (119.5mm instead of 117mm), stroker crank (I think you would have noticed and would have had clearance issues), decked block (seems a lot to have skimmed off) or pistons not to spec. What block is it 1052, 1127 or 1157? 1052 ran a 58mm stroke crank, others 59mm stroke. Don't know if 1052 block is shorter to make up for the shorter stroke.

BST36SS (Mk1 bandit 1200) carbs are 42mm o/d and have been fitted to GSX1100 (https://www.theflyingbanana.com/gsxrcarbies.htm). Not sure on the push pull throttle.

www.carlsalter.com has free to download manuals, there are drawings of the cylinder head cooling system in the manuals but I have not seen a cooling oil pressure, only lubricating oil pressure.

ART is a Japanese company and supply a lot of motorcycle manufactures. By the the look of the pistons they are forged like the ones for the hayabusa (81mm), so would measure the gudgeon pin etc and seeing if they match any production motorcycles.

Normal you should keep both points on the island, so in theory you will just be blowing through hot air towards the top end of the rev range.

For a GSX1100S the service manual Inlet valve stem O.D. 5.460mm - 5.475mm Exhaust valve stem O.D. 5.445mm - 5.460mm

If you have a recessed petrol cap then the pipe is there to drain water away, if you don't have it then there is a good chance you will get water in your petrol tank. Bandit tanks suffer from this pipe rusting through and draining water into the tank, some owners just block the pipe at the top and bottom and carry on as normal, its not the right way but each to their own etc.

Oil pressure switch says 1100.

After looking at photos online it does look very much like a CBR900 gearbox, does not look like a hayabusa or gsx1400.

6 speed, what looks like a double output bearing, don't know, but could be gsx1400, hayabusa or something else.

Looks like stock forged busa pistons to me, cast pistons usually have a lot more surface detail in them.

Both coils will have one wire which is the same colour as on the other coil ie: wiring for 2 coils =2 orange, 1 white, 1 black with yellow trace, in this case the 2 orange cables would be replaced temporarily with wires direct from the battery + (through a switch would be good ( note this is an un-fused supply so be careful )) this will bypass the ignition switch, side stand relay and kill switch.The ignitor will still be supplied by a questionable + supply but to temporarily replace this you would need a switch to turn the bike off. This is just a test procedure to identify if and where you have an issue. The relay that you put in should have been put in on the orange wire wiring run that runs to the alternator and is for voltage regulation and should not affect anything else. It is so much easier for for me to do these things than it it is to write it down so I am sorry if it does not read well.

Unlikely, but could be, so run a new temporary cable from the battery to the coils to test if it is that side of the circuit (disconnect when not in use).

If you want to do it, do the DIY route and save your self some money, I would put a scribe mark on the plate and engine before loosening the 3 screws, just to make sure I could put it back to standard, and also use the mark to set the advance with a protractor.

Is there a little bit of slack in the brake rod? I have seen instances where the brake rod was misadjusted and did not allow the piston to come all the way back past the big hole in the master cylinder and thus not allow more fluid into the system.

The spring damper plate on that clutch is seriously broken.

Gsxr750 k5 has a clevis bottom mount and the gsx750es looks like it has a eyelet bottom.

The balance adjuster looks wrong. The tab form the one left carb should sit in fork of the adjuster and there should be a spring to keep it pushed up to the adjuster. If you have disassembled them and the one butterfly does not move freely, if a bit of light oil does not help, I don't know.

What are you putting them in? Gen 1 20mm gudgeon pin, gen 2 18mm gudgeon pin, gsxr1100 20mm gudgeon pin