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If you are a bit fussy….. Theres normally 3 figures for an engines oil capacity. # Oil change. # Oil and filter change. # Dry build. Some of my Suzuki’s hold considerably more on a dry build than an oil and filter change, obviously a normal oil change leave the oil cooler full of old oil, but even on bikes without a cooler there’s still a noticeable amount left in the head and around the motor. Im not obsessive with oil changes, but if it’s something that had an issue or questionable, I have been known to do a couple of changes in a hope of flushing the system beyond what a regular engine flush will achieve.

Got around to filling it up with oil today, it got used oil as I wasn't going to waste new oil on it and it's not going to be run with it. And sure enough, the seal and bearings around the shifter shaft are leaking. Wasn't immediate, but came back from talking to my neighbor for like 15-20 minutes and there's oil on the frame and dripping down the pan. Probably a lot worse if the engine is running. Told my friend that it's not gonna be a cheap and easy bike to throw back together at this point, he can still buy it off me real cheap if he wants, otherwise I'll probably pull everything off of it that can be of use and stick the frame on a shelf until I come across an engine to put in it.

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https://www.advrider.com/part-supplier-sudco-international-to-close/ Not good for US OldSkool owners.

Top man Sam is

Dave at the shop has a side hustle printing.

Fitted the new oil cooler and freshly painted lines rebuilt the fuel pump re-fitted it rigged an auxiliary fuel tank up to the Zooma which is parked next to the busa. Turned the ignition switch on and off a few times which showed fuel was circulating back the the tank. Pressed the go button and it hesitantly fired up , the the FI light came on but the engine appears to run smoothly all the way through the rev range. I ran it through a few heat cycles and after about the 5th the FI light went out happy dayz

Yup a twice broken starboard knee cap and dodgy hip are a real pain nowadays,

Cheers for the reply, is there actually one on these as I thought it was on the later srad models ? I know there's a 3 pin diode up by the battery on the left as you're sitting on the bike. I will check the orange/red though thanks.

Get you with your fancy branded cover.

I’d place money it’s the resistor on the ignition barrel. It’s an anti-theft feature. Check the resistance between the (if I remember rightly) orange and red on the barrel.

Could the injector be fitted to the intake boot?

Shout out to @Gsxrsamfor the lock up. Shame to hide it.

I briefly had a GZ250, it had belonged to a friend of a friend. It had been a starter bike for his kids to learn on, then it sat outside for years, free for the taking. The GZ250 was a small cruiser with the same engine. I got it running and made a few custom modifications, then sold it to someone who wanted a starter bike for his family members. Not hard to make some money off small bikes: get them for free or cheap, spend a little money and time to get it running/rideable, and sell. Your bike looks like a good candidate for that. Might market better with different paint.

Did a little bodgery, i don't usually use files to make stuff cause i'm a lazy git So these lumps have a PAIR system : Obviously who cares about that, so i took the caps and went to town : Result : the oil catch tank Does that pass inspection @peter1127?

From the language used, the OP is in the US! The eblag find is a good one and probably as cheap as you'll find for NOS! Strange as this model was popular in the states so should be loads lying around!

I (and many others here) don't instawhore. Load videos here or it didn't happen.

Welcome to OSS First take off the left hand side cover and have a look. The springs (X3) can pop through the starter clutch wall (as the wall is thin) this is a easy fix by welding up where they have came through (removed springs first ). Or it could just be the main bolt that's came loose. But first step before buying anything is to have a look.

You are missing a zero. No. is 12600-49850. https://www.Eblag.co.uk/itm/334349003175 350.00 Quid.

Hi, I'm new to the site. I have a 1982 Suzuki GS1100 GL, shaft drive. When trying to start motorcycle, all I get is starter spin/whine. I think I need a new starter clutch assembly and have looked on Eblag and other parts places. They have some parts but not entire assembly. I've also looked online for motorcycle grave yards, etc. with no luck. I've not taken the engine apart yet, but have consulted a mechanic. It would seem that aftermarket parts for this cycle aren't made. I'd really appreciate any suggestions. Part # is 12600-4985 I think. Does anyone know if any other Suzuki uses the same parts (like the GS850 or other. Thanks for any help you can provide. I might not have to have the entire unit but don't want to take it apart until I have parts, otherwise it's just junk. OR can I use other parts? Jim S.

Hi all, hopefully get some help with this. Bought the above bike last Sunday with no power at all to ignition, thought I'd take a chance. Got her home, charged the battery overnight and put it back on in the morning showing 12.9v, turned the key and still no life. No ignition lights whatsoever, so stripped her down, removed the seats, tank and fairings and set about with a multimeter and wiring diagram. Everything checked out, continuity on every wire I checked along with clutch lever switch, side stand switch and neutral switch, all fuses are good too Went back to basics and started to trace everything from the battery onwards again, on further inspection the starter solenoid was hooked up the wrong way i.e the positive lead from the battery was going to the M terminal ( motor side ) and the Starter motor lead was hooked up to the B ( battery ) terminal, so there was the reason for no power. Switched them around, turned the key and I was greeted by the neutral light and oil light. Pressed the starter button and she spun over, great but no spark on any plug, set my multimeter to volts and probed the o/w wire to my coils and grounded to the battery negative, both showed a little over 12v with ignition on that dropped to around 9v while hitting the start button. All plugs have been grounded against the frame while turning the bike over and no spark, I removed the coils and tested them for ohms across the terminals which came back at 4.5ohms for both on the primary side and 15k ohms on the secondary side through the plug caps. Tested the white wire on the rear coil and b/y on the front coil for continuity to the ignitor and they both check out, signal generator is giving 172ohms on the green and black wires on the connector under the seat. Does this model have the resistor on the ignition to drop the voltage to 8v going to the ignitor ( CDI ) box ? Loosing the will with this now, sorry for the long long post I just wanted to make sure I put as much info on as possible. Very grateful for any and all help.

No worries, family always comes first

Unfortunately being more than an hour or two away from home, or having a drink beyond driving level, is a no go at the moment due to my Mum and my mother in law. I need to be at home or able to get to Coventry at short notice. Add on the workshop arse ache and it's just one of those periods in life where we have to be grown ups. Stafford or Newark are OK as I can pop home at night, North Yorkshire is a bit more of an expedition.

You could spare a day and an evening if you push it out the box, work/home/travel loads to there extreme. Planing on coming to your due if the new place plays out.