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Looks like you might have a key number stamped on there? 413? Might be a good place to start. I don't know about these locks but it maybe that you can lift out the bolt once it is unlocked?

The new cam chain tensioner spring for the B12 from Suzuki works fine in powerscreen and 1100 slabby engines, and thus probably all the 1127 engines.

Spring in my b12 motor. Part has been superseded by a slightly longer spring. I imagine it's the same for slabby and slingshot but not 100% Other option is a manual one.

ive got a 1340 big block gsxr, and it isnt really a problem om the street as long as you keep away from drag cams and ridiculously high comptression etc. it wont go through rings, unless the bore clearance is miles out it will overheat and id definiitely fit an extra head cooller if you put it in a streeet bike, and avoid citys , as it will overheat, especially without additional cooling. citys are boring tho

Gathers up some proper sprocket studs as some twat had used threaded stainless bolts ffs thanks to @Deanofor these had replated and married up with some TI nuts another sub assembly done jobs slowly grinding to a halt now waiting on main chassis parts back crank cases are being painted over Xmas I believe, polishing will be back 2 nd week in January, and I’m calling for an update on frame today, once things are back though I reckon il have built up and rolling in a couple of hours I’ve already got new switch gear, throttle assembly, master cylinder etc from the spondon so it will look well on its way hopefully leaving me to concentrate on the engine building

Oh, probably not then. I still want to keep the front and rear ends on it at present.

Don't worry, I haven't forgotten.

I'll see if there's been any head work done to it when I get it, if not, that'll be high on the list of things to do. My stockish 750M already over heats worse than my naked 1100s in town. I'll start with an oversized cooler and I got a Yosh temp gauge that I'll hook up as well. If it over heats in town I just won't ride it in town on hot days. If it runs hot at speed I'll add a top end cooler. APE is currently out of some of their top end stuff, but Kibblewhite looks like they have parts in stock. Big valves, flowed head, HD springs, lumpy cams, and 41 carbs, anything else?

cough [PM brake set-up]/cough

I ran a 1340 on the road with an extra large oil cooler it did jet hot when sat at traffic lights so I used to just turn it off. To get the best out of your 1371cc it really needs a big valve flowed head.

I'll be taking a long hard realistic look at a lot of my spares and figure out what I can get rid of to help off set this build, and just to make more room. I'm already assuming this is going to be my most expensive GSXR build to date, and upgrades on other bikes are just gonna have to wait. I need to finish two other builds before I can even think about starting on this one. Good motivation to finish some stuff, I hope.

Haha, my 1277 slabby was going to just be a stockish streeter until I came across a dirt cheap set of 83mm pistons. Oh boy did it escalate from there. I had to stop counting so I made a conscious effort to keeps the cost of the 1340 in check. Buying the 1340 bike cheap was a help and then selling the front and rear, spare tank and a few boxes of bits that came with the bike helped a lot. Initial cost was $6300aud including the freight and I'm only at $6100 now. Sold some doubles of parts I had lying around also

I'm buying the engine, a few extra transmissions and a bunch of other spares for what I consider a really good price. No idea where I'm gonna put any of the parts yet, but I'll start a build thread for the engine when it shows up. Thinking that old hacked up 1100K frame that's tucked away in my basement might finally be coming out for this build. Funny how the best deals on parts always turn into the most expensive builds.

Good to know, thanks. He sent me more photos. It looks like it already has the fittings for a top end oil cooler, I'll just need to source the lines and cooler. Also have a top end oil if it needs it.

That's why it's got flat top pistons. Comp should be ok. Unless you are running the 1340 on the limit, I can't see why it would be a problem on the street. Mine is business as usual until I crank the throttle.

Your swinging arm that's presently in your Harris.

What for?

Oh shit, I hadn't even noticed that. They had mentioned different spacers for under the cylinder block, guessing that's how they're dealing with the dot head compression boost. I've got other heads that I can swap as well.

That’s a dot head on that motor in the picture. It’ll have a serious CR if that’s on the 1340 motor

I could do with a complete including the light colour not Important Thanks

Search around on here, I think people might have been using Bandit ones, but can't remember. I know it's been brought in the past 6 months.

He told me the rings can get hardened by the extra heat and don't seal as well. He also told me that the crank wouldn't be able to handle the power and I know for a fact that there are plenty of people on this site riding boosted engines with stock cranks putting out more than 200 HP. Also just got a photo of the transmission. At this point I feel like as long as the shipping isn't more than the price of the engine and parts, I'm gonna go ahead and buy it and figure out what to do with it over the summer.

I've a couple of proper lenses and about 6 of the tail units. Not going to use them, I'll check out what's in the unit tomorrow..

Why would it go through rings any faster.. is the heat expanding them and minimizing ring gap?