Engine paint

[Reinhoud]

Hi,

 

The crank cases of my GS1000 don't look that flash anymore (probably never did) after 37 years..

Now I see a lot of people who spray paint their engine, but for how long does that look good?

I spray painted the rocker cover of my engine, but the paint didn't stick very well, looked like crap after a few weeks.

 

What are the experiences with you guys regarding painting an engine?

 

Thanks!

[arnout]

On ‎6‎-‎8‎-‎2016 at 2:54 PM, Reinhoud said:

The crank cases of my GS1000 don't look that flash anymore (probably never did) after 37 years..

Now I see a lot of people who spray paint their engine, but for how long does that look good?

"Forever" if you do it right..

 

On ‎6‎-‎8‎-‎2016 at 2:54 PM, Reinhoud said:

I spray painted the rocker cover of my engine, but the paint didn't stick very well, looked like crap after a few weeks.

What paint did you use?

Preparation is the most important part of spray painting though.. Even the best heat/chemical resistant paint will flake off without sufficient prep..

 

On ‎6‎-‎8‎-‎2016 at 2:54 PM, Reinhoud said:

What are the experiences with you guys regarding painting an engine?

 

Well.. Painting aircooled engines is a bitch really because of all the cooling fins and hard to sand/clean/spray areas, so having it media/vapour/soda blasted would probably give you the best chances of reaching all spots for a decent prep.. (Plug ALL holes/gaps/openings!!)

I have mostly sanded engines by hand though and still was able to do a decent paint job, but it takes a lot of time..

Degreasing is vital, primer might not be necessary though (depending on the type of paint used)

As for using spray cans:

VHT engine paint is very good and last well.. (sprays very thick, so coverage is excellent, but laying down initial misting coats is near impossible)

Motip/Dupli engine paint is cheap, but surprisingly good.. (poor fuel/chemical resistance though.. sprays thin, which makes it really controllable..)

Curing is best done in an oven, but since a full engine won't fit into a standard sized one, the curing process needs to be done during riding the bike.. This can take quite some time as some parts never reach the oven temps.. Mind the paint still being soft and easy to scratch at this point when fitting the engine back into the frame..

[Reinhoud]

Ah thanks, it was VHT paint I used.

Engine is in parts, so that makes it easier.

 

I'll see what I do..

 

[jacktar01]

I had the side covers and rockers all powder coated a few years ago still look mint and then took time prepping the the rest of the engine and sprayed with Halfords engine paint, let it cure properly then got the engine warm a few times to harden it off. Seems to have stayed on quite well and lasted 4 1/2 years few areas could do with very minor touch up but it still looks pretty good

[Joebloggs]

PJ1 case paint goes on very nicely, almost looks factory finish.

I painted an old Kawasaki motor with it a few moons ago and was very impressed although recently a friend used it and it didn't last two min's, not sure if the formulae has been changed or if it was down to preparation but if the latter I'd recommend trying it.

[Reinhoud]

On 8/22/2016 at 3:41 AM, jacktar01 said:

I had the side covers and rockers all powder coated a few years ago still look mint and then took time prepping the the rest of the engine and sprayed with Halfords engine paint, let it cure properly then got the engine warm a few times to harden it off. Seems to have stayed on quite well and lasted 4 1/2 years few areas could do with very minor touch up but it still looks pretty good

Powder coating? I was under the impression that couldn't stand any heat.. Ceramic coating is way too expensive.

[Reinhoud]

17 hours ago, Joebloggs said:

PJ1 case paint goes on very nicely, almost looks factory finish.

I painted an old Kawasaki motor with it a few moons ago and was very impressed although recently a friend used it and it didn't last two min's, not sure if the formulae has been changed or if it was down to preparation but if the latter I'd recommend trying it.

What I did myself with VHT didn't last long either, I did it according to the instructions, it stays on, but when you rub it it comes off.

 

I think I leave it like it is..

 

[Joebloggs]

I imagine there are some paints out there which could withstand anything we could throw at it (think space shuttle) but knowing its out there only makes your search more frustrating.

[gsx]

Used  smoothrite on  gsx 11 engine after it was recommended  on the temp site by someone . Very thin when spraying so watch for it running but great results.

Been on year and half now with no issues

[markfoggy]

Engine temp Powder coating not a problem, if you go to a powder coater that knows what powder to use.

If you want to go Mad I know of a place that powder coats in PTFE, which is also known as Teflon when Applied to frying pans etc.

It has a more than suitable temp range, they regularly do pistons and other engine components. PM if anyone's keen I can point you in the right direction.

[jacktar01]

On 26/08/2016 at 11:56 PM, Reinhoud said:

Powder coating? I was under the impression that couldn't stand any heat.. Ceramic coating is way too expensive.

The cases rockers and covers get hot but not exhaust hot so they have had no issues.

[Roger P.]

Powder seems to hold onto the heat quite a bit more than paint

http://www.chopcult.com/news/articles/techs-by-steve-brewdude-garn-head-coatings.html

 

[Andicog]

There really is no need for special paint, I did mine with normal car base coat and clear 2k lacquer , been fine for 12 years, prep is the key,  red scotch pad and panel wipe for a good key on sound paint , 320 wet and dry on loose stuff, I'd advise using a thin coat of acid etch primer especially on any bare alloy, 3 coats of base and 2 clear.  How do you think all the German street fighter engines are painted lurid colours ?.  If you don't want it super shiny use a little matting base in the clear lacquer. 

[wraith]

I used Simoniz gloss black engine paint, decreased engine rubed it down and then sprayed it last year, gone all year summer and winter and still looks as good as it did when I sprayed it.

I would highly recamend it. They do it in gloss black, satin,mat or silver.

[Havoc]

I recently did my cases in this stuff.

It goes on great, viable at over 450^o and fuel proof.

It appears to be very tough, the cases survived a bashing when they flew off my back seat when I did an emergency stop 

 

[Swiss Toni]

Is that 'Wrinkle Finish'? Looks good!  Powder or paint?

[Havoc]

21 minutes ago, Swiss Toni said:

Is that 'Wrinkle Finish'? Looks good!  Powder or paint?

Yes, rattle can laid on thick enough to just not sag then as long in the oven at 200^o as you can stand the rest of the family complaining about the smell. At least an hour.

[skelly]

I'm a great believer in....

If I cant do it mega. Give it someone else to sort..

Painting is one of those things.

I took all my engine cases to Shane at faircharm restorations in Leicester.

He blasted them.

Then etch primed them then painted them in two pack satin.

They look pretty good and it seems very durable.

Apparently powder coating is not so good as it tends to hold the heat in..

[carlinmidarlin]

I've done mine in 2k and it's been great , as said etch primer is a must plus good prep

[Jonny Bravo]

I used Japlac Enamel on mine, Again as others have said proper prep is your friend. Utterly heat and fuel resistant but best cured properly in an oven

 

[johnr]

i can highly reccomend getting cased chemical dipped rather than blasted. the dipping is a totally non abrasive procedure and the cases come back as spotless bare metal exactly as they left the factory. its a bit cheaper than blasting too.
speaking to some of thee acs guys at stafford and there are a few of their csx motors done with silver smoothrite, and it really does look like the suzuki factory finish. very long lasting too, and it doesnt yellow like some of the other high temp silvers do on aircooled motors.