Andicog

Mine were oval, they caused a stutter when rolling back on the throttle, dropping the needles a notch cured it for a while.

Already have both yokes, clip ons and swing arm in bare alloy, doesn't get a chance to go white and fluffy.

I was intending to leave them bare alloy anyway.

Has anyone had any success removing the factory black from the Slingshot master cylinders? I've repainted mine a few times but they always end up looking tatty, I initially tried decent stripper but it doesn't shift the factory paint, I'm thinking of vapour blasting them but any cheaper suggestion would be welcome as I'm thinking bare alloy would be best.

Thanks guys , I'll dig a little deeper, stripping back some of the cables they're good so far, I expected the strands to be green or black with age but they're clean , would have been easier had I not wrapped the loom in self amalgamating tape some years back.....

Thanks, I'll take a look.

My 1100L seems to charge fine but the red wire from the alternator gets hot sometimes, hot enough to melt its insulation slightly where it plugs into the loom, the connection is clean and tight, would this be something that the charging mod would cure or do I have another problem? Any help appreciated.

So would this problem cause the red wire from the alternator to get very hot at times? Mine has never cooked a battery and seems to charge fine but the red wire has been hot enough to melt its insulation, will this mod cure it or do I have some other problem?

Could be wrong but thought all water cooled used the same frame so if the later arm fits I'd think the earlier banana type would as well. Pretty sure this was covered in previous topics.

Yes, I've fitted the wt 1100 arm to my 1100L, you need the inner bearing sleeves and spacer from your original arm, these fit into the inner bearings on the later arm to sleeve them down. As I remember the shock linkage fits, must be close as I had no engineering done!

Looks good, What's your delivery time Inc the seat?

Nice, where does that attach to frame? I did have an RK seat unit here but it wasn't right for the slingshot frame, yours looks just the job.

Spring rate is softer as is damping, I have a 750 Hagon on my 1100, called Hagon to check differences, they said it would only make a difference when carrying a passenger.

This is the Bardney racing one, and a painted Muira version, it's not for a race bike so need it to look as factory as possible.

Thanks, if you look at most though they are different to the original panels along the top edge or the side panel and some won't take the standard seat. Only ones I've seen that are the same as the original are the Airtech and Muira so far.

Wondered if anyone knew where to get a race seat unit for an 1100 slingshot? I've seen one on that auction site but it's not exact enough, know I can get one from the US or Muira in Japan but it's not cheap with shipping etc.

Get it all over the net, face book, all the forums, send a pic to Practical sports bike mag, make it too hot for them to handle. When mine was nicked I put it everywhere, bastards dumped it after about 2 weeks, was complete as well. Now if only the police had told me it had been recoverd 5 mins from my home and Hills salvage hadn't tried to steal the bodywork . . . .. Got it back though and that's what counts.

I've used a soldering iron and bits of the same plastic, seems to work OK.

There really is no need for special paint, I did mine with normal car base coat and clear 2k lacquer , been fine for 12 years, prep is the key, red scotch pad and panel wipe for a good key on sound paint , 320 wet and dry on loose stuff, I'd advise using a thin coat of acid etch primer especially on any bare alloy, 3 coats of base and 2 clear. How do you think all the German street fighter engines are painted lurid colours ?. If you don't want it super shiny use a little matting base in the clear lacquer.

Thanks for all the replies, I run the same 200 section on my zx10r on a 6" rim and it turns quicker due to the tyre being 'pinched ' by the rim and creating a higher profile , most BSB teams were doing the same , that's where I got the tyres from. I'll probably go down to a 190 or 180 but the 200 does look good! , it's close on the torque arm as well, just misses (nats nudger being the phrase!) Did the later wp slingshot use a 5.5 or 6" rear?

So my ongoing/lost in the garage 1100 has caught my eye again, I'd fitted an 1100 wp Swingarm a couple of years ago, mixed and matched with spacers on rear wheel and bobs ya uncle, however, I got cheap a pair of pirelli diablo super corsas, the rear being a 200 section (I know the handling won't be the best.), the chain just kisses the side peak of the tyre , would it be OK to space out the rear sprocket using 1 x M10 flat washer per stud behind the sprocket? Would it be OK to space the front sprocket by using a new tab washer behind the sprocket? I recon this will give the necessary clearance. I've still got to drop rear ride height, looks high in photo.