Roger P.

Bugger. Looks like I need a new bearing then, as the shaft has the same part# as the 1127 motor. Interestingly enough, the GSF cases from 2003 onward are Bandit items only, so I guess this was the change reflected in the part # differences. These motors are not quite as mix and match as I thought.

Well, I decided to install the transmission from my Gen II GSF1200 motor and I have hit a snag. The output shaft bearing won't line up with the retainer clip in the case. If I try to move the shaft out far enough to engage the clip, the gear hits the case. Is this just a matter of repositioning the bearing on the shaft, or do I need to order an 1127 bearing to make it work?

Spoke too soon as usual. Clutch is being a real bastard to troublehoot. I took out all of my slack adjusters and ended up with the exact same travel, so the problem lies somewhere else. I noticed a fair bit of endplay in the clutch shaft itself. Is there an acceptable limit? I can't find any dimension to check against. Even when the whole clutch is installed, I can manually move the clutch assembly up and down a small amount. Something doesn't seem right. If it needs splitting the cases I'm just going to part this sucker out. The clutch hub and basket have mild ridging, not really enough to worry about. I have a Bandit clutch I can throw in for troubleshooting, but I don't think it's going to make a diffrence.

Gurls blouse Graphite Gray Metallic is a perfect match for a MkII B12 motor. I had painted parts mounted next to OEM Suzuki and you couldn't see any difference.

Well, didn't even need to start it. Cold engine, cranked it over until my lithiun ion booster pack quit and I can drag the rear wheel by hand with it in gear and the clutch in. Amazing how such a little amount of oil can make such a huge difference.

I can't seem to get proper clutch release on an 1990 (?) 1127 motor with a Bandit 1200 MkII sprocket cover and Bandit MkII master. With B12 slave cylinder I was getting between 1mm and 1,25mm clutch movement. With the bike in gear I couldn't budge the rear tire with the clutch lever pulled back to the bar. I took out every bit of slack I could find, so much so that the dial indicator would begin to register as soon as any movement of the lever was initiated. I even put in a second thrust bearing and washer on the end of the push piece from the remains of my B12 motor, but to no avail. I figured the larger bore of the B12 slave was stealing some stroke, so I bought the proper 1100 slave and installed it tonight. Clutch travel has increased to about 1.9mm but I still can't spin the tire with the clutch pulled. Does anyone have the spec for clutch movement with all the stock parts? I am leery of throwing more money at it since it might just be stiction in the clutch pack of a cold assembly, what with my arm probably not giving the clutch the same boot up the arse as an idling engine. I vaguely recall the GSXR clutch master being 16mm, but I'm not sure. Plates are used and well oil soaked, but have been in and out a few times. The clutch slave cylinder push shaft is custom length and much longer than original. It seem to be of the proper length to utilize the entire stroke of the current master. Any advice appreciated.

Do the cases have to be split to replace the oil seals on the shift shaft or countershaft? I went out to fog the cylinders tonight and found my oil sight glass empty and a large wet spot in the dirt where my fresh oil had migrated. If they need splitting, I think it's sayonara time for this bike. I've had it. Tried to crank it over with a fresh battery and there is a dead short somewhere.

Finishing up the 1127 install on my Bandit and I am wondering which clutch pushrod I need to use. Bandit is too short, but putting in the one that came with the engine still seems to leave me with a lot of dead lever travel. It is very slightly bent as well. I am happy to buy a new one if I knew which one I need. I have the ability to make one at work if I had a dimension to work with as well. The cover is off my B12, MkII engine. The countershaft succumbed to a pair of carefully sharpened tungsten carbide tipped concrete drills. The extension off the back of the speed sensor is just under 14mm, so a 9/16" concrete bit sharpened at work was the perfect size to cut the counterbore for it. Bloody hard steel it is! Tungsten carbide is something they use in coal mining you see...

It would seem the "bolt on the dot head and 750K cams route to more power" did not work for me.... Cam timing was spot on.No indication that the head had been skimmed or my engine had ever been opened. No fucking idea what happened. The surviving pistons show exhaust valve contact. $500 worth of new exhaust valves gone there. Scary part is I had been 260km/h just minutes earlier. Be warned!

Heh, heh, heh......yeahhhhhhhh.....

Sadly, no. It's out in the wilderness somewhere. Might be a good project for the crusty 1%er welder guy who welded up the holes left in my Bandit head when I drilled out the broken studs. He's worked his magic on some broken carb float posts for a few guys.

No. This is the carnage after my one and only ride with the dot head and 750 cams. My new rings and head gasket have arrived so hopefully reassembly of my 1100 motor will be underway shortly. I thought getting this 1200 motor out of the frame would be a doddle, but damn was it a fight, even with the downtube off. once I get everything back in place, I'll finish tearing down this motor and see if it's worth building up over the winter.

Look closely, and you will find two valve heads. Piston #4 seems to have had a major disagreement with both of them.

Well, couldn't leave well enough alone and pulled the head and block off the donor motor. Plenty of carbon on the piston crowns and hard glassy burnt oil on the exhaust valve stems, so it looks like this engine is an oil burner. Not surprising given the age and unknown provenance I suppose. New rings and head gasket on order, but I'm not convinced this will keep it from being a smoker. As usual, two very low mileage Blandits have instantly appeared in the local classifieds for about what the gasket and rings + motor are costing me, so yay for me! The motor is older than I thought and has the rocker head. Useless trivia: The cams have the same B and G stamps on the inlet and exhaust cams that I pulled out of an '89 750 a few years ago. I will be installing my good Bandit head with 50K on it to take care of any valve stem and seal issues. It is much cleaner than the GSXR head. The cams are in slightly poorer shape then the 750 cams I picked up a few years ago (mild scuffing and pitting). They will be sold on cheapish.

This certainly appeals to my lazy side, but there's a fair bit of oily mess on the front which leads me to think I'd be pulling it again to fix leaks. Still, I guess I need to find them, and pulling the motor from a Bandit isn't the hardest job in the world, so it's probably not a bad idea. I guess I'm just not feeling lucky atm. Seems like I'd wind up in one of those click bait ads "This man just fitted a 1100M engine onto his Bandit. What happens next will make you cry laughing!"

Well, being a glutton for punishment, I bought a secondhand GSXR 1127 motor off a guy whose basement looked like the holy of holies of slabbie worhip. About 6 complete slabbie 750's and 1100s of museum quality, with another pristine 1100 in the garage for day to day, alongside the skeleton a another 750 slabbie. Motors all over the place.I figured I'd forgo the Eblag experience and take my chances that this was a useable engine. They are not easy to find around here. Now, before anyone gets on me for fucking up the most basic dot-head conversion, let me say that upon further inspection, #4 piston is largely AWOL. I can move the con rod back and forth like a bell knocker with no sign of any piston to be found anywhere. Lovely grooves up both sides of the liner from the wristpin, which is still snugly in place. Haven't a fucking clue what happened, but the dot-head conversion does not seem to have been the problem. The engine held 70mph quite easily even trailing a huge cloud of smoke. Yes, I was extremely pissed off at the time and just wanted to get home.... Curiously, my blown up engine has a V720 engine code, which indicates its a 2006 motor, but the bike is a 2004, so it's not the first time this engine has been swapped. Sad to see that masterpiece of a motor reduced to bits, but that's life. Anyhow, I'm torn as to whether I just slap in the new motor and sell it on, or turn it into a winter project and build a proper 1216. The main advantage of a Bandit is the (relatively) cheap insurance rates in Ontario. I was looking at a ZX12R and got quotes for $5000/yr for basic liability. What I'd like to know is, can I install my old Bandit 1200 head without a loss of compression. It is a known quantity, and would let me reuse the 750J cams I bought. It would also eliminate the shim valve adjustments.

Rev limit is currently pretty low ffs.. Sweated bullets all last weekend getting it back together. Ran like a streak of shit through a tin whistle with the 750 cams and dot head, then a massive smoke show. Something went in cylinder 4 and holed the cases. Snakebit project from start to finish. I'm probably just going to sell it on with the replacement motor, just a massive pissoff looking at it now.

Anything unusual to make this a difficult swap? Blew up my 1200 motor bigtime. I have sourced an 1100M motor for ok-ish money, but need to know if there is any complications to getting it to work. If I swap out the sump and oil intake, can I reuse my aftermarket pipe (Black Widow header + Yosh RS-3). If the motor is sound, how much power do you think it would make with RS-38's and open pipe + filters?

Damn. When I bent my dot head exhaust valves I just threw in the ones from my B12 head. Didn't know they were different. Clearances checked out OK so I'm wondering what I should do now.

You can always improve the looks of a Hayabusa.

So....the guy says 2 seasons on the kit, 25 passes before he got boost happy and grenaded the stock engine. He rebuilt the motor with Busa pistons but his carbs were shot in the blowup so he went with his street ZX-14 after that. Not sure how that happens unless there was a massive backfire. Says the setup was good for 9 seconds in the quarter mile with him weighing 300lbs, so it sounds like the motor was putting out good power before its demise. Maybe he was asking too much of stock internals? Who knows.

https://www.kijiji.ca/v-motorcycle-parts-accessories/thunder-bay/proboost-turbo-kit-5-22psi/1312916889?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true I have no idea how to get this shipped to me where I can feel like I am not taking a risk that it is a blown-up pile of tat. Still, at less than half price, it is so verrrrry tempting. Worst comes to worst, how much would a turbo rebuild run? $500-$1000 CAD? To put it in perspective, you would have to fly to Vienna from London, U.K. to go the same distance one way. Why does this country have to be so goddamn huge.

After heating up an 1127 block and dropping the sleeves out, I couldn't help but wonder if anyone had ever used a bare block and attached aluminum sleeves to the bottom, then had the whole thing nikasil coated for a 1400cc+, stock block sleeper. Lots of work and fiddly machining, but the riding season's over in Canada, so it's time to waste time on dreaming up impractical projects.

Well, I was targeting 1246cc max, so I figured I'd check first to see how much room there was. Sounds like there is plenty. I'm in Canada, so US suppliers are the way to go, although my Black Widow headers got here from the UK pretty quickly.

Hi gents. Anyone know the max liner o.d. you can install in a stock B12 case? I am trying to make a silk purse out of a sow's ear with the p.o.s. 1127 block I bought off of that site. Had 81mm bores, but they were worn out. I figured with winter coming on it might be a good time to turn it into something useful for next wrenching, errr, riding season. I found a company called Melling that makes some pretty affordable liners for re-sleeving. They will build to suit. Thanks.