zedhead Posted January 27, 2023 Author Posted January 27, 2023 All disc bolts out, bearings shouted at, removed then thrown in bin, so wheels ready to be taken to be powder-coated. But that last remaining header bolt... 2 Quote
zedhead Posted January 27, 2023 Author Posted January 27, 2023 That welded-in allen socket snapped as soon as a ratchet looked at it... A little more access required, so the headers were cut off. A shame as they were actually rust-free but fuck it... 1 Quote
zedhead Posted January 27, 2023 Author Posted January 27, 2023 17mm nut, drilled out to fit over the stud a bit better, then lots of weld and lots of heat, now left alone to consider its future... 1 Quote
yantosh Posted January 27, 2023 Posted January 27, 2023 1 hour ago, zedhead said: That welded-in allen socket snapped as soon as a ratchet looked at it... A little more access required, so the headers were cut off. A shame as they were actually rust-free but fuck it... double skinned and super heavy 1 Quote
TonyGee Posted January 27, 2023 Posted January 27, 2023 15 minutes ago, yantosh said: double skinned and super heavy yep but super strong and they buff up nice Quote
zedhead Posted January 27, 2023 Author Posted January 27, 2023 I'd forgotten how feckin' heavy the headers are... now need doc appointment for resulting hernia... 1 Quote
DAZ Posted January 27, 2023 Posted January 27, 2023 30 minutes ago, zedhead said: I'd forgotten how feckin' heavy the headers are... now need doc appointment for resulting hernia... Never mind maybe the grumpy looking bugger photo bombing your shot will make ya a cuppa when you get back 1 Quote
jonny1bump Posted January 31, 2023 Posted January 31, 2023 At least only one. Head off and ped drill time. Quote
davecara Posted February 1, 2023 Posted February 1, 2023 You shouldnt have to take the head off to get them out. See if you can weld a nut on there, it'll wind out once the weld cools down Quote
jonny1bump Posted February 1, 2023 Posted February 1, 2023 6 hours ago, davecara said: You shouldnt have to take the head off to get them out. See if you can weld a nut on there, it'll wind out once the weld cools down Have look top of the page. 1 Quote
davecara Posted February 1, 2023 Posted February 1, 2023 1 hour ago, jonny1bump said: Have look top of the page. That was over the head of the old stud though…. Quote
clivegto Posted February 7, 2023 Posted February 7, 2023 Weld another nut on the while it's still red hot pour cold water over it, even better squirt the hose pipe at it then turn it out 2 Quote
gsxwill Posted February 14, 2023 Posted February 14, 2023 Another way is to heat stud till red-hot then cool down with engine oil (very smokey) and best done outside, but the heat draws the oil down the threads and makes it loose, its an old blacksmith trick 1 Quote
kev34 Posted February 14, 2023 Posted February 14, 2023 Aahh!!! I feel your pain, I took my engine out to get just to give me more room to work on it, good luck. 1 Quote
zedhead Posted February 17, 2023 Author Posted February 17, 2023 Now on my fifth nut welded onto the end of the stud... this is partly (ie, entirely) due to my crap welding technique and not getting the weld in the nut, which only sits on a single thread of the stud, right down the nut and onto the stud... but, each time it does get the stud out by about an eighth of a turn before the weld breaks and the nut snaps off... softly-softly, catchee monkey. 4 Quote
DAZ Posted February 17, 2023 Posted February 17, 2023 I have seen where a penny washer was placed over the remains of the stud and welded to the stud as it allowed better access to weld,and then a nut welded to the washer might this help you ? 1 Quote
zedhead Posted February 17, 2023 Author Posted February 17, 2023 The only problem with that Daz, as good an idea as it is, there's not room for a penny washer as it's the inner stud of cylinder 1, only just enough room to get a socket on a 13mm nut ;-) 1 Quote
Dezza Posted February 17, 2023 Posted February 17, 2023 How many more 1/8 turns will it take to be able to get the mole grips on it? 1 Quote
zedhead Posted February 20, 2023 Author Posted February 20, 2023 On 2/17/2023 at 2:50 PM, Dezza said: How many more 1/8 turns will it take to be able to get the mole grips on it? About 40... (1mm per full turn, 5mm protrusion required for the moleys...) But... ... it has now snapped flush with the surface of the head. Arse. Quote
zedhead Posted February 20, 2023 Author Posted February 20, 2023 In other news, repainted bottom yoke is back in with refreshed bearings, swinging arm is out (more awkward fasteners) to be repainted and given new bearings. Ignition switch on bench awaiting surgery (switch cut off, wires reconnected to make live with resister in wherever it needs to be, maybe an on/off switch added too, depends on what guidance I get from the wizards as to how to deal with the magic smoke). RH rearset modified so that brake master cyl fits properly. Bracketry removed from subframe that is allowed to be removed. Quote
Dezza Posted February 20, 2023 Posted February 20, 2023 6 minutes ago, zedhead said: About 40... (1mm per full turn, 5mm protrusion required for the moleys...) But... ... it has now snapped flush with the surface of the head. Arse. Quote
DAZ Posted February 20, 2023 Posted February 20, 2023 Oh bloody hell,time for the left handed drill bits? 1 Quote
bluedog59 Posted February 20, 2023 Posted February 20, 2023 Maybe it's time to take the head off and sort it. If you're going to race it a little look round and tidy up will not go amiss anyway. 1 Quote
zedhead Posted February 20, 2023 Author Posted February 20, 2023 Perhaps not a bad idea to take a look at the head, although no "tidy up" allowed, boggo stocko only! Quote
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