Major fuckup

[rerb]

Get ready to laugh at my colossally dumbass move, but after completely rebuilding my motor to the cams I realized that the tensioner side cam guide installs in the bottom end while the cases are split, not the head.

Back to the jungle I guess. 

While I'm here, any tips when it comes to installing pistons to the cylinder? I don't have the fancy ring compressor in the manual. Since I gotta do it again. 

[Dezza]

The person who never made a mistake, never made anything .

[Gixer1460]

You might be able to lift the barrels just enough to slip the tensioner seats into position - its awkward but saves the chance of a busted ring or two!

As for fitting pistons - get 2&3 atdc, slip barrels on sitting on top rings and gently ease rings into barrels with thin screwdriver & fingers. Gavity works for you as will push barrels down on to next ring set. Once 2&3 are done, rotate crank whilst moving barrels with pistons till 1&4 slot in and repeat although space is V limited! Enjoy!

[Fazz711]

Not done it myself but have been told you can use cable ties to hold the rings in place 

[Spazpecker]

A sliverline piston ring compressor is £9 ! 

[clivegto]

Leave the barrels on just split the crank cases. 

[rerb]

Cases split, tensioner installed. I pulled the cylinders/head just to verify everything. Glad I did, I guess the oil passage o-ring didn't seat properly in the head and was completely mangled. That would've caused a leak for sure.

8 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:

You might be able to lift the barrels just enough to slip the tensioner seats into position - its awkward but saves the chance of a busted ring or two!

As for fitting pistons - get 2&3 atdc, slip barrels on sitting on top rings and gently ease rings into barrels with thin screwdriver & fingers. Gavity works for you as will push barrels down on to next ring set. Once 2&3 are done, rotate crank whilst moving barrels with pistons till 1&4 slot in and repeat although space is V limited! Enjoy!

I'll try this method, I started with 1&4 and was having a lot of trouble with 2&3. As far as compressors go, if I can't get em by hand I'll try some hose clamps.

Another quick question, since the engine wasn't started I know I'm fine to reuse the MLS head gasket, but what about the copper base gasket? I used gasaginch and now it's dried all over it, would it be necessary to strip it all off? thanks

[Spazpecker]

I would 

[Fredrik_Steen]

Do cylinder 2-3 first and 1-4 last.

It´s tight but i will work. Can be seen in my movie. 2:26

Suzuki Gsx-r 1100 EFI Random movies 2020 - YouTube

 

Clean the base gasket, i use Loctite 3020 on the base gasket =)

[Ragerover]

I think you will be able to lift the barrels just enough to slip it in

if not I do the barrels and pistons differently

i got the piston s in the barrels off the motor and fit the inner circlips 

I then put the barrels onto the rods and push the fudge on pins in then feed the other circlips on 

 

that way you never get issues with the rings 

I know the photos are not a Gsxr but you get the idea 

[Gixer1460]

True - but the chances of pinging a circlip into the crankcases goes through the roof - risky? Very IMO!

[Ragerover]

Not really just stuff the crankcase with clean cloths. 
 

I used to do it the other way in the 80”s and early 90’s

since then I’ve done it this way

the tricky think my traditional way is when you space the rings correctly getting the oil ring in.

both ways are doable and I’ve done quite a few of each.

daft as it may sound I always take the motor out for barrels and pistons or shims and do it on the bench .

I find this quicker and easier too

plus you are working at the correct height 

[rerb]

On 5/2/2021 at 12:09 PM, Ragerover said:

Not really just stuff the crankcase with clean cloths. 
 

I used to do it the other way in the 80”s and early 90’s

since then I’ve done it this way

the tricky think my traditional way is when you space the rings correctly getting the oil ring in.

both ways are doable and I’ve done quite a few of each.

daft as it may sound I always take the motor out for barrels and pistons or shims and do it on the bench .

I find this quicker and easier too

plus you are working at the correct height 

I ended up using hose clamps to clamp the rings. Was over in 15 minutes, I struggled to get the wrist pin through the conrod trying it with the pistons in the barrels

[Captain Chaos]

buy an RE5 and you don't have those problems

[rerb]

4 hours ago, Captain Chaos said:

buy an RE5 and you don't have those problems

I would love to. But I'm sure I'll eventually get bored with replacing apex seals