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Fredrik_Steen

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Everything posted by Fredrik_Steen

  1. Yes i based my recommendation on this map ( I added two red dots). And a estimation that he will be pushing around 2 bar to get 360ish hp without intercooler. I think this turbo are more suited for a stronger/more tuned base engine
  2. I'm guessing it's the maxspeeding brand you are looking at. It's cheap Looking at similar compressor maps I don't think it's the best choice out there for your application. If you still have stock b12 camshafts in the engine I think 150ish are a bit optimistic.
  3. It's hard to say what a turbo are "good for" It depends on your engine combination. In your case I would calculate with a 120hp engine. At one bar it will produce 240hp. Two bar = 360hp if the exhaust back pressure are kept in check and the intercooler can support the heat. Roughly estimations, but gives you a idea when you check compressor maps
  4. If you can afford it I would go ball bearing, journal's flow a lot of oil (that oil you want to keep in the crankshaft bearings) Learn how to read compressor maps, I like this channel They have several videos on the topic
  5. It's not optimum. Like Gixer1460 said get slotted sprockets
  6. Yes, a 2mm spacer will do about 6 degrees
  7. I got mine locally here in Sweden by a steel company. The washers are minimum 45 HRC Dimensions was 10.4 x 20,4
  8. I torque to 50-55 ft lbs lubed (depending on the feel in the handle) you can't use the oem washers Steel and copper. They are to soft and you will loose tension. Buy special hardened washers
  9. What are your favourite myths on turbo or suzuki oilcooled engines?
  10. I'm more interested in low boost and big HP numbers. Efficiency and a good base engine I also agree that high lift and shorter duration are the way too go if the NA engine likes it. But I don't believe that the boost will go straight into the exhaust if you have a little more duration. The reason I have the specific camshafts are that they where on the shelf when I was going to buy and I didn't want to wait for other grinds to be manufactured. But they work great.
  11. MTC advertise cr 10.0:1 for the pistons I use But the cylinder and head has been resurfaced two times so probably i got a little bit CR
  12. What works NA also works with boost. There are plenty of test's out on Youtube on the topic. I run this camshafts that has a lot of duration with good results
  13. Do you have the compressor map for your turbo to upload here? That ones i found on Google seems to only support about 1,8bar Think you will be looking at a water to air intercooler system for your setup. The rods you have are awesome
  14. Looking at the compressor map for the K04-015s you are on the edge. A decent work on cylinderhead would be nice so you don't need to push beyond 2bar. A lot and a lot of intercooling are a big must. ignition retard are your best friend to reach your goals. Don't push to mutch boost in the peak torque curve - be wise with your boost controller. You really don't want the rings to bottom up at any point Nice experiment you are running, keep us updated with progress later on
  15. I ordered my washers from Daniel Leander on facebook, he makes for Hayabusa and Bandits. APE doesn't make washers unfortunately.
  16. You need to change the washers in the head when you use CHN1000K nuts. The stock ones will just deforme and lose claming force. Ignition curve you need to be abel to controll. Boostcontroller, you need to be abel to contoll boost around torque max. Torqe kills engines. I would go for a MSL gasket, not cooper.
  17. Yes Sir, the short model. Now I use IGN1A Smart Coil
  18. Found a really old picture in my Phone I use what we call "Tredobricka" in Swedish. A Steel/rubber washer from the hydraulic world on both sides on the cover. Grind some fin's of the cover to get a nice sealing surface. A standard cherry red sensor, 1mm from the exhaust lobe. Don't forget to account for the sealing between the cover and head when the cover are torqued down.
  19. 1. Look in my build thread "half thousand horses" there are pictures of my instalation on cam sensor without welding. 3. There are a basemap for gsxr/bandit to download on maxxecu website
  20. The change to a new sensor was relatively easy, I used the oem base plate and added a tab to mount the sensor Love your new dyno, it looks awesome! Would be fun if you documented your Maxx instalation on the bandit here on this page
  21. Yes it works with stock wheel if you press the big red help button in M-Tune and then scroll down to Trigger and open Suzuki Gsxr you will find my examples on trigger logs. Send a email to support@maxxecu.com They usually reply the same day
  22. I needed to change sensor on my maxxecu gsx-r 1100. We couldn't find Zero-crossing with stock sensor. Maxxecu support tried but with no luck.
  23. Holdener did a test earlier this week, boost juice vs windshield washer. He also has a 1h video up on the topic that you might be interested in If you don't want to fit a intercooler, look into converting your fuel system to E-85.
  24. You won't use the coolant in a engine with water either, it's to hot. The intercooler water needs to be ambient temperature. You only need a small water radiator, when you ain't under boost the ambient inlet air in the boost pipe will cool the intercooler core. The big problem with bandits are the space behind the engine, it's very hard to have the intercooler core in the plenum like all Hayabusa have. Video on the topic
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