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Everything posted by rerb

  1. I'd sell my car to find a nice billet crank...
  2. Hello, a year or so back when I was first starting my build and asking dumb questions I came across a few mentions of various older school books for tuning boosted things. They seemed to be held in high regard, but I can't seem to find them anymore. What do you guys recommend for readings about this topic? Thanks.
  3. good advice, APE seems to do some crank services for testing trueness and balancing, as well as magnaflux testing. I am assuming their rods will work for a '99 even though they list it for '93 to '98.
  4. Just sold my s4 so now it's timing to really focus on the bike - specifically in beefing up the motor. I'm looking for bottom end components to bulletproof it for high boost (18-20 psi, i'm at 15 right now). I know fatigue is usually what causes rods to go, so I don't want to pile on the miles on stock rods. So far I see carillo rods, H-beams, but their website says it fits '97-'98 GSF1200 crank, but mine is a 99. Is there actually a difference between them? I thought they had the same motor. I also see maxpeedingrods, but they are only advertised for 9k rpms and I've heard poor things about the brand. Of course the other option is 'busa rods, but a proper set of H beams would be better. One thing I haven't found is I-beam rods, which I was told were better for boost. For the guys here running 300+ with aftermarket rods, which ones would you recommend? Custom made is always an option but that would be a bit out of my budget. I also see APE used to make race cranks, but has discontinued them. My motor has 68k miles on it, would the stock crank be fine with a balance and polishing? Thanks.
  5. Looking back on this now as winter comes to an end here, wouldn't COP require sequential ignition? Or does their CDi box have outputs to each coil keeping wasted spark?
  6. I have a Chinese td05 16g, and I'd recommend a td04 instead. my td05 takes a hot minute to spool up, and isn't the best build quality. It also required me to source an outlet to be bolted onto the compressor housing in order to fit the charge pipe. The Hot side inlet is a different shape than most other turbos too, (if you're using the DSM clone like me) so future upgrades to ball bearing is limited without modifying or replacing the manifold.
  7. True, that does add quite the challenge for a successful model... Now what about dry ice? Assuming I'm at the track, filling a container with dry ice and plumbing it Into the intercooler core then out to atmosphere, having either a blower fan or some sort of venturi to pull the dry ice vapor through the core. It's still a good -109 f when it sublimes, and leaves behind no moisture. I know water based intercoolers can get corroded cores, so this also seems like a plus. It's also less dangerous than nitrogen, and would require less advanced metering and control for a safe and functional result This idea might be far from a practical, streetable solution, but it would be pretty fun and unique to build... and hopefully get me a good grade
  8. i've been thinking about this more and more, next semester I'm taking a thermodynamics and heat transfer class, maybe it's the perfect project for the final...
  9. Great pointss guys, as it was said It would mostly be used for intake temp, less of a power adder. As for monitoring it, that's not too concerning as while it is a street bike, it's not a full daily. I'd also use the university's shop to fabricate some nice large storage tanks. Mostly want to increase my safety margin at high boost on pump gas. E85 is a dream, but carb seals and the fact that the nearest e85 gas station is over 4 hours away, it's unobtainable if I decide to go for it I would probably start with just water with a temp sensor fitted to see if it does anything. I can see tuning for meth being a pain, but I built this bike to experiment. If I give it a shot I'll keep you all posted
  10. Now this may sound crazy, but... how about water or watermeth injection? It cools the air almost instantly, raises octane, and keeps the motor cool... its also badass to say "I have a turbocharged watermeth injected motorcycle". The only challenge I can see is just tuning it, fitting the tanks to the bike and getting the methanol. Anyone here played around with it?
  11. that thing is crazy... Well i'll take everyone's advice and run over to the shop to tear down the bike and sort out a spot for an I/C. thanks for the replies
  12. according to the calculator my intake temps are above 220 degrees... def seems like an intercooler is a good idea. And stock cams as of now, but my peak torque is pretty high up so I'm contemplating GSXR cams as mine have some pitting and wear on the lobes. The most space effective option for an intercooler seems to be water to air, but it seems like a lot to setup a water pump, lines, and a heat transfer. I might be able to get away with a front mount, but I have a large aftermarket oil cooler which takes up a lot of space...
  13. Thanks for the replies, sounds like enough of a reason to go through with it! And it's Td05 16g, no intercooler atm. Not sure what options I'd have for one that isn't super $$ or space consuming
  14. Thanks for the recommendation. I've got a probably stupid question, but I've asked a few people and haven't gotten a straight answer yet. Since porting the heads should make the motor more efficient at making power with boost, if there were 2 identical motors both making 250 hp, but one was ported on 12 psi, and the other not ported on 15 psi, would the ported one be less likely to blow since it's running lower boost pressure? Or does it only depend on the power output of the motor? Seems like it'll have a pretty straight forward answer, but I haven't found it yet. Thanks
  15. Hey all, after a good first season without blowing the bike up, the temperature has dropped and the snow has come. I've put the bandit away, but plan on doing some upgrades this winter. Does anyone know a good spot where I can get my b12 head ported for a turbo application? I'm having a hard time finding a local shop, and wouldn't mind shipping it and not having it for a few weeks. Before I choose one somewhat nearby, I'm curious if anyone knows a place that specializes in these bikes. Thanks for any recommendations.
  16. I deleted the diverter valve on my audi, it sounds great. But it also hurts spool time a little. I was much more confident doing that on a car than a bike, because the car has a single, beefy butterfly valve, and the bandit's carbs have the more fragile slides as was previously mentioned. I have found a nice in-between though ,the HKS sequential blow off doesn't fully open below 6 or so PSI, so on low boost I still get some nice flutter but at the same time I still get that satisfying "chirp" from it at high boost
  17. Good advice, i'm up to 15 psi now after removing the exhaust and some fueling tweaking, so far no weak spots in the AFR in boost. Thing boogies. Ran a 7.2 1/8th mile @104 mph with no launch while crossing the gates in a 3rd gear powerwheelie at 7.5k rpms. To get any good numbers a longer swinger would be required. As for the comment about boost during peak torque, I understand that high boost in lower rpms can over torque the motor, but if peak torque is far up in the rev range, is that something to concerned with? my turbo's a lazy bastard so I only start to come into power at about 6k -> 10k, although it does build to 10 psi pretty quick. And an ignitech box with dyna coils is the next priority, solely to have access to timing curves, limiter, and stronger spark. (and 2step for the launches ) BTW the motor has busa pistons, APE head studs/nuts and a HD cchain. So it's decently prepped for some good numbers.
  18. +1 on std busa rings and 15 psi, no issues yet after 2.5k road miles
  19. Hi, yesterday I had some free time and ran some tests. With my exhaust (Vance and Hines muffler on 2.5" pipe) fitted, I saw 12 psi in first, 13 in second and beyond. Afr in boost was around 11. I did 3 runs and got the same result. I took it off, and there was a massive world of difference. I was hitting 14 psi in first, 15 in second, and I saw it tickle 16 in 3rd before I browned my pants and let off mid wheelie. Afr was around 11.5 - 12. Same thing, did 3 runs and used a gopro to verify what the gauges were reading. So obviously less exhaust = more power. A lot more. I assume the backpressure is putting resistance on the turbine wheel, choking it out. This would make sense as it's a larger turbo. My question is am I stuck with a loud bike to run these numbers, or has anyone figured out a setup where a muffler doesn't affect boost as much? Would a smaller turbo be choked out less? I also have a thought that maybe the leaner running from less exhaust adds to the power. Just food for thought here, anyone with a muffler please chime in and tell me what you've found, thanks. I know the Vance and Hines one is pretty quiet, maybe there's a higher flowing one that works well here? Thanks.
  20. Well I'm partly an idiot. I took another look today and noticed the wastegate actuator actually managed to get stuck against the frame, propping it open about 1/2 of the way. I guess boost pressure was enough to open it fully, but on the return the friction must've held it in place somehow, I have no clue. Readjusted the mount and now it clears by a few hundredths, bike runs a lot better now. Still not sure how that even happened unless the manifold sagged with the weight of the turbo
  21. Yep, I was off by a hundredth whoops. I went smaller on the ring gap for forced induction because my motor has never gotten hot before, and it's a very cool climate around here. Depending how my bore looks this winter I might go bigger, but so far no problems. I do have a larger piston to wall clearance though, .005". No signs of piston slap yet even though my machinist warned me about it
  22. I ran .14 inches on the top ring, so about 3.6mm
  23. When it was running great I didn't lol. That's how I knew something was up. I could lift the wheel in 3rd but now it stays down in all gears Doing a lot of headwork this winter and hopefully switching over to a td04, what would you guys recommend for a td04 capable of 250 hp? I see 14t is a common choice but not sure.
  24. Think my turbo blew a seal, started spewing oil into the charge line. I'll check compression too but I think there's crossover between the hotside and coldside because just the day before it was a total rocketship. Motor feels the same before boost but I'll still check compression.
  25. Hi guys, my bike has seemed a lot slower over the last few days. I've noticed if going wot from first into top of second, I'm only building 10 psi. (Wastegate set to 14) This is with +1 -1 longer gearing BTW. This seems low, and the bike feels a lot lazier too. In 3rd to 4th I can tickle 13. My current suspects are small boost leak, boost controller, or failing turbo. When I disconnect the charge pipe before the plenum with the bike running and cover the side that connects to the turbo housing with my hand, the bike dies. If I blow into the plenum, it comes out of the pipe that goes from the compressor to the plenum. I thought it would go through the turbine side of the turbo, not the compressor side. Is this a sign of a fucked seal? Thanks.
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