DAZ

Do long stroke 600/750 cams fit the 1100 heads ?* Are the cams noticeably "hotter" ? Is it possible to run an intake cam on the exhaust as happens on the gsxr1000s ? Is it worthwhile ? * The short stroke 750 ones I know will fit 11/1200 tappet heads.

Just musing this shim spitting (or not) issue , i was wondering if engines fitted with "uprated" cams are the ones that are prone to losing a shim maybe because of more aggressive (faster) opening and closing ramps causing a loss of contact between follower and shim ?

Having read the article you posted I have to ask : if they built an 1186 motor specifically to drag race why would they not set the valve springs pressure to suit the expected rpm limits of the motor,to ensure it didn't float the valves ? why didn't it have a rev limiter set so it didn't over rev , soft cut limiter aren't new if you haven't read @Oilyspannermy route to oily happiness thread in projects his 1216 M sounds close to what you want and maybe worth the time to read it you haven't already seen it

+1 on @Dezza, having had 25+ bikes including singles,twins,a triple,and inline 4cyl if you're coming from harley cruiser type bikes(I've had a harley too) then a gsxr will be a culture shock especially the comparitive lack of low down torque so a bigger bike as Dezza says will probably suit you better for the road rather than a frenetic tuned 750, try to blag a ride on a bandit 1200 or similar to see if it suits you better , not got the image of a gsxr but nice to ride rather than look at ......no smutty remarks at the back

Meant to add to above post

Is it one of those "myths" that grew on the internet ?, maybe back in the day from production racers ,even from the 750m which obviously rev higher or the early gsx600f which also had shims for the first year of two I believe, like when Whitham was racing them.

Missing hose, won't run with fuel tap set to on or res,but runs when set to pre (or is it pri ?) I'm going guess that it's a vacuum hose that operates the fuel tap. There should be either a hose from the tap that's not connected or a spigot on the tap with no hose if it's missing or a hose from the carbs that it's not connected to anything, Google some images of the carbs in situ rather than parts diagrams they maybe more helpful

"Gettin lapped is better than not racing at all" You're out there doing it ! I reckon one make ,zero(ish) mods race series are the hardest closest racing out there and it's still your first season, experience will bring better results I'm sure . Easy for us armchair expert's but how do you think you are loosing the places you make at the start? Concentrating on the "right" track position and not defending the place in the corner? . Anyway thanks for the update always look forward to them

The other thing is if it's not up to spec then you may get stranded at the side of the road, if you're lucky ,if not you may watch your pride and joy smoulder and not in a sexy way... If you do it yourself do some homework and ask the questions,

Website: motorcyclewiring.co.uk gives a mobile number

Very nice find ,looks well tidy in the pics,

Give @imago a shout he's an OSS trader and in your neck of the woods(ish)

More snap crackle and pop than a box of rice krispies

Yes, both @clivegto and @fatblokeonbandit have had good results but if you go down the dot head route be sure to check carb clearance as the ports on the dot heads is "semi" downdraught and consequently tilts the carbs upwards ,I'm not 100% sure but this maybe mitigated by using different intake rubbers as some are shorter than others check @Dezzaexcellent sticky on this subject.. Edit: and if you use the cams from the 750 you'll need to swap the cam wheels to bandit ones to suit your cam chain

The additional compression and better flow would wake it up for sure

The dot head is favoured to put on a stock bottom end because the smaller 750 combustion chamber raises the compression ratio a, 1216 kit (usually listed as 11 or 12 :1 )would raise it too much with the smaller combustion chamber . By proper valve job o mean have the seats recut and valves faced and new genuine valve guide stem seals . In your existing head .As for your cams could they not be reground to a new profile by Kent cams in UK or web cams in USA ? depends where you are based Edit : see you are in Greece so not sure what to advise...

I'd check what the compression would be with a 1216 kit before anything else if that is definitely in your future,what is advertised as say 11:1 would become 12.5:1 with a dot head ,more if it's skimmed just something to bear in mind is there an issue with the stock head? I think if it's ok you maybe better using the std head and spending the cash on a refurb,proper valve job new seals etc jmho

Is the old one destined to spend eternity gathering dust on a shelf at Wee Man towers or is the red herring looking longingly at it......

As @Safra says unless it's a 100% restoration plenty of alternative shocks out there even some of the eblag cheapies can be pretty decent, if you post the length and fittings ,eye or fork someone may be able to recommend a oem replacement

I personally think that the MOT test is there for the "great unwashed" who know bugger all about their vehicles to ensure the worst of the worst are taken off the road till they're acceptable again , if it really was that important it would be stricter and more often, my truck every 6 weeks an inspection , trailers are 10 weeks on double deck and 13 weeks for boxes and curtains

Maybe try some meant for a bandit or teapot to adapt as the ones I've seen usually mount on the engine mounts for at least a couple of the mounting points ?

The gsx400fw is a water cooler but the 600 is an oilcooled engine ,don't know if the engine mounts are the same but if they are then you've got a lot more choice available to you if the 400 is unsalvagable as you've got all the oilcooled range to choose from if not maybe the bandit 400 wc may offer parts for the engine

Thanks for clearing that up @Dezza,strange but wonderful that they offer the same size (34mm RS) carb with 3 different spigot sizes in this age of rationalisation it's so good that a company is still offering choice over a one size fits all approach

Thanks for that ! Knowledge is always welcome, hopefully @Dezza will see this and amend his thread

Hi Mutley ,welcome aboard if you are buying your rs carbs new then have a look @Dezzasticky about inlet rubbers as it says 34/36/38 rs carbs all share the same size 42mm stub so if you've not bought them yet 38s maybe better suited to your 1100 n motor .....