DAZ

I'd try the air box if dual pods won't work for you, might look more original/sleeper if that's your aim , I'm sure you could cut and shut it without too much hassle, either plastic weld it with a soldering iron or maybe some sort of glue.... Mek maybe as a few on here have used it to repair panel's though that was making some kind of filler iirc heck even pop rivets and silicone if it's out of sight, though that bike looks too nice for that kind of bodgery

Surely boost is only one part of the equation ? Maybe I am wrong (and if I am I welcome being corrected as it is the only way to learn ) but is boost not just a measurement of restrictions in the intake system ? E.g. If bigger throttle bodies or intake valves or porting allows more flow into the cylinder then the same amount of air would result in less boost pressure as measured in the plenum but the same cylinder pressure ? Is it cylinder pressure that causes the Detonation an collapse of the ring lands (diesel-ing?) So maybe altering the valve timing to reduce cylinder pressure at lower rpm ? Would 9.5:1 at 10psi but with better head flow be as powerful ? And still fit the formula ?

Looks very nice

I'll start by saying I have no knowledge of piston design but when I saw your idea to modify the crown of the pistons I immediately thought of diesel pistons I have seen that shape (ish) maybe this helps maybe not but it is an area to research as regard crown shape an squish perhaps.....

Then I think it is time to source a set of foot rests and fabricate some adapter plates to fit them

Regarding the footrest assy measure the mounting points and post up the distance between them , I know @fatblokeonbandit found out the rear sets off a wn model gsxr ( i think ) fits the bandit so maybe the 'Zuma is the same .... Presuming your knees are bendy enough for rear sets of course

You never fail to impress @clivegto with your can-do get to it attitude to making stuff fit

Thank you, being a wagon driver usually when I see steel it's 40 foot long and smaller diameters seem quite flexible at that length !

@imago sorry if it's a stupid question, or if I'm answering my own question, but why start off with hex stock ? I can only imagine that it's easier to produce (and store) hex as it's less likely to bend/flex than round ? Nice that you've got the tools to do it even if it is a bit of an odious task

Looks great, that tank is a class creation ,do you have any ideas on how you'll build it ? Restomod utilizing the fairing and seat unit with more modern running gear , or a period correct style build ? Or nekid street fighter stylee ...

Never cease to be amazed at what turns up ..... I sometimes wonder what treasures lay hidden in suburban garages and sheds

Well the shaft frames are wide in the swing arm pivot area so relatively easy to swap your swing arm and wheel of choice in I guess , if you're after converting your existing engine to chain drive that maybe harder .... Unlike the team green bikes that require removal of the bevel box change the output shaft to the chain drive one and fit the chain drive sprocket back plate

Sad times @clivegto, the need to put your powerful engine in a frame that handled went away with the race reps of the late 80's and 90's the desire to do so is only held by a few die hards

Fair play to you for the comments regarding Martek , you've had dealings that have been good which is nice to hear maybe he's had issues in the past that has caused negative reviews and is over them , hope so as with the demise of spondon bespoke frame makers are a rare breed ....

Have a mate with a h2sx kwack that has a lean sensor built in to the dash .... Every flippin' time we stop I get a report as he checks his chicken strips ...... ffs

That's about 33 degrees more than I manage thruppenny bitting round corners these days .....but when I was younger I was much faster , obviously... Just quickly looked up a 2020 yam r1 and it claims 56° so I reckon you'll be able to get your money's worth from every mm of tread width

To be honest if you're not after top end hp I'd stick with the stock bandit 1200 head and cams as well as the carbs Etc use the twin oval filters with a dyno jet stage 3 jet kit and it'll run pretty good as that's what it's developed for, try with and without The advancer to see if you notice the difference ...... Just my opinion and just like belly buttons everyone has one Edit: forgot to say if you swap to the dot head/cams remember that the bandit uses a hyvo cam chain so you'll need to swap cam wheels and if you check out @Dezza sticky on the subject of intake rubbers the dot head has inclined intakes that can in some instances cause carb/tank interference or issues with fuel taps hth

Try Miller's oil in brighouse (love buying British when I can) , a good friend uses them for his classic cars , they have a huge range of stuff including motorcycle ,and motorsport , and have a technical helpline 01484 475060 so maybe worth a call

Have heard all sorts of tales of keeping a little in reserve , adjustment to throttle stops ,rev limiter Etc to slow a vehicle then set to "kill" in the actual race and then at the last moment shut off or brake once your ahead of the competition to try and avoid breaking out ....

Is that like a joe90 clutch for big boys ? I assume it's adjustable for biting point (rpm) maybe by weights or distance between different internal parts ?

As @Dezza says clean it really well to see where the leak(s) is then tell us and we can advise you better ,a cam cover leak is a lot easier than a base gasket leak but just saying that Itleaks isn't much of a clue sometimes and a picture really helps too

Well no one else has answered so I'll throw my hat in the ring, firstly hello , your gs 850 is aircooled and shaft drive (at least UK versions are) it is possible to fit other engines and convert to chain drive but it's not a bolt in job and unless you have fabrication skills and experience I suggest you stick with the original engine and work through the leaks one at a time , they may just need a cover removing ,the gasket faces cleaning and a new gasket and retorquing correctly As for the battery issue, first port of call ,charge the battery up, reinstall it,start the bike and check the voltage at the battery when revving the bike a bit (2.5-3 thousand rpm) ideally it should be 14.5 ish volts if it's higher or lower next port of call is the regulator/rectifier ( Google it on how to check it properly) Good luck

I moved 2 years since still doing stuff ..... B12 in z650 sounds good ,believe the rear engine mounts are something close .....no I'm not encouraging you

@wraithdid you get a chance to sort your clearance issue yet , though it's been a bit Baltic for the past few days so couldn't blame you for not being in a rush

Jb weld ? Or do you mean an epoxy type two part thing ?