Captain Chaos

oh yes and on the diode Blue (from neutral switch) should be connected to Black/Blue (to neutral indicator)

Orange/Yellow (+12V from fuse) should be connected to Orange/Black (to kill switch) and then you can ditch the sidestand switch, relay and diode.

stickied it for you all to enjoy on a daily basis

it's a kayak. And the paddle is used as handlebars.

and welcome to OSS. Introduce yourself

the other one goes between frame and left rear footrest bracket, to protect the seat lock 16 in the pic

You haven't met @Wurz yet

those spare float bowls could be from 36mm carbs although not all 38's have the jet nut, but they all have the pipe up

Yam YZF750 also has BST38's

For reference this weekend I have drained the cooler from my GSX-R750L (which is the largest standard Suzuki oil cooler) and it contained 0,5l oil. Just the cooler, without the lines.

moving this to oilcooled now

I like chocolate

and if the spring pressure is not enough, it helps to rest the fork leg upside down on the ground, compress it with all your weight, while unscrewing the bolt.

will be home on friday, can take a pic then.

have used Crafts spray, made in Holland and until recently for sale here in Lithuania. Painted an EFE rocker cover 6 years ago and it still looks like new now. A mechanic friend now uses Motip Wheelspray with good results as well. At work I have painted a few ditch pump engines with Harley Davidson Texture paint, not cheap but very good stuff. But as said before crap prep = crap result, no matter what paint you use.

the cold start jets are pressed in the plastic float holders, maybe the other 3 didn't fall out yet?

it could also be the jet for the cold start circuit, which should be pressed in the plastic float holder. Compare with other carbs' parts to be sure. I thought the powerjet was not press fit but screw in?

Idle adjusting screw also missing

yes carbs 2 and 3 are clearly spaced out around 1cm. Just look at the tab for the balancing screw. And the fuel feed pipe(s) also look dodgy. Post a pic of the other side, I'm sure many more parts are missing/modified.

parts 10 and 11 (10 is no longer available from Suzuki) are also important. I have used some other rubber stuff (vacuum pipe cut open or something similar) and glued it on the inside of the bracket where the speedo touched it. What matters is that there's no metal to metal contact between the speedo (and tacho) and the bracket.

Needle snapped because of vibrations, mine did the same (on two different speedo's). The rubbers where the speedo is mounted in get tyred and saggy, which causes the speedo to rest on the metal bracket, and the vibrations do the rest. Only cure is new rubbers. You could try to remove the glass and glue the needle back on, I tried once but had a "fuck this shit" moment when I found another speedo in a cupboard and installed that instead.

huge number plate is ruining it for me

don't care what they came off, what matters is what they'll go on

the downtubes need bending quite a bit to make them fit in the ports, and then they hit the sump pan, would need a lot of rednecking to make the headers not leak.