bluedog59

That could turn out very cool. What s/arm is it ?

They're a bloody good bike only let down by the (easily fixable ) cheap bits. The core is very good but they also fell victim to the tinsel and bolt on tat brigade.

I'll see if I can get a mate to scan a few pics I have.

Very tidy.

I like them when they have been sorted to use what you can make the motor give, early 80's AMA style. Mine is similar but with 6 pot AP's, mini harris rear and PVM wheels. Lightened but looking stock at first glance.

I love the "Nico Bakker" sticker on the frame. It just says quality.

Sod, " Bike of the month". That's a front runner for "Bike of the year".

because we're discussing cams, carbs and exhausts.

So, what cams, pair or combination, do people think would give the best mid range/ torque with a little more at the top ?

Different spacing but I think there may be an inlet rubber swap that may sort it.

Nr Loughborough. Often go to my mate's just a couple of miles from GIA.

Fair enough about not revealing the price but you're still a jammy git. Let us know when you ship it off to Gav, I may drop by for a shufty.

A simple check of the frame number will end any debate. Either way, it looks like all the important bits are there and unmolested. It should make a nice bike with a little more attention to detail that the present form. Well done and good luck with your purchase and you're a git for getting a cheap special. Go on, twist the knife and tell us how much.

No idea........ but it looks nice.

That's one a very nice bike that's going to need a good wash to get every speck of sand and salt off. Well done with the run.

That's a nice rarity and some nice bits of "period" kit. I think a pair of AP or Spondon calipers would go perfect with the wheels and discs.

I guess what I really want to know is, Can you do the combo of B12 and DOT head ? I'm thinking better compression and porting but with the mid range cams. Anybody done it ?

If it's not disengaging properly it could just be you have a tiny air bubble in the system or the fluid is old a u/s.

Once I've got my frame project off the bench, and due to making a rash promise, I'm going to have to pull my finger and fix the gearbox in the old bus. The bearing behind the clutch has gone so, while I'm in that far, I've thought about giving it a little more umph with the old "parts swap" fix. The crank/bores/rings etc are all good, I have a good complete "DOT" head (R not F) , a set of VM29's (bored 33mm), a set of K+N twin pods for the stock carbs, a full Akra system and a bigger cooler. What I want is more of what I've got, mid range shove rather than top end BHP. Opinions please. PS. I'm fine with the VM's, I've had plenty of stuff with "mechanical", non CV carbs.l

Drop the bearings into a sealed bag and then in the freezer while you warm the hub up a little. Makes them a lot easier to fit.

Clean the crank end and rotor taper with contact cleaner then lap the rotor on using fine grinding paste until you get a good fit. Make sure you clean ever speck of paste off afterwards...... then clean it again.

Good point. You can pop the rubber seals out without damaging them to do this. A very small screw driver or scribe will do it.

I'm looking at going but don't know if it'll be Sat or Sun. I'll drop by and give your tyres a kick. Anybody know how much it is "on the door" ?

Don't forget to add "2rs" to the end of the bearing number to get ones with a rubber seal each side.