cnap504

Twin anti swirl combustion chambers. I dunno

If you got the engine and carbs for 500 I’d say you did very well. The U.S. 1052cc GSXR (‘86-‘88) came with 34mm cv flatslides, I think modifying your 29’s to 33’s could work, the 1052 and early 1127 heads are probably the same. And it would be pretty cool to make use of the carbs you already have. The 33’s will lack just a bit of higher rpm power but do you need the few extra ponies a couple thousand r’s just under the limiter.

Morris mag wheels?

An original Suzuki GS 1100 air cooled 4 valve cylinder sleeve has a o.d. of what size? Is the 1150 o.d. bigger or the same? Thanks

I thought maybe they had screens in the air box. Power adjustable windscreens , now I know

I’ve heard it mentioned before but what is a powerscreen?

Can you post a picture of the mtc can, would like to have a look

American Turbo Pak info pages provided with their kit some 50 years ago

I just put a Pingel single outlet 1/4” inlet on a ‘81 ET. The bike has Kehein CR’s. Tested visually the flow on the original Suzuki valve and the Pingel feeds more gas, I could see the difference running out the fuel line.

I was lucky enough back in my day to come across a guy who did real head work. He was nearly illiterate but was a mechanical genius, his head work in most cases was conservative high velocity stuff with blended seats and three angle valve jobs. He did an early kwak 4 valve watercooler 1984 900 gpz, picked it up tremendously. + at least 1 or 2 maybe more for good headwork

I’ve had success putting a soldering tip on the post. After heating the post the pins come out with tapping on the small end. Go easy tho there can still be resistance

Have you bought any carbs yet? If the motor is going to remain basically stock, 31mm Keihin round slide CR Specials just might hit the sweet spot. 5mm’s larger than the stock 26’s, they’ll boost top end without giving up low end. A bit pricey tho

You had 130lbs across them it went down nearly 50%, check the cams again for correct timing, and also if your motor has a cam chain tensioner that requires loosening of the lock bolt so the spring can pop in to take up chain slack. And that adjustment has to be done at a specific crank position, iirc there’s a “T” mark on the timing plate. When it was out 2 pins there is a chance of a bent valve.

New pipe

Yep^^ so when it’s running might be a good idea to do a compression test

About the CR’s, great carbs. 5179 needles clip one position leaner than the middle. 58 pilots, 230 air jets, 138 mains, a turn and a half on the air screws. Using the Keihin black plastic velocity stacks (with the grey lock rings) will noticeably improve response. 14mm float height, and use a push-pull throttle set up, once past 3/4 slide opening they have a tendency to hesitate in closing when relying only on the return spring.

Yep, 6mm by .50, worked like a charm

Go to an online parts fiche with your specific year and model and have a look. I’d say they do make a difference, some of the Mikuni BST carbs that I have refurbished have had the plugs and others not, I would think there is a reason.

6mm x .50 ?

I’m cleaning a set of mikuni cv’s from a 1981 GS1100E and one of the fuel screws will turn in maybe 2 turns and then stops. Tried that particular screw in the other carb/carbs and no trouble so I’m thinking it’s the threads in that carb body. Also checked to see if an old screw taper broke off in the body and no, it’s good. Can I clean up the threads in that carb with a chaser/tap and if so what size is it? Thanks

thanks Kiwi awesome link

Yep looks like 29’s, big drain caps on the bowls located directly under the main jet (alllowing main jet changes without having to remove the bowls). Also thin wall spigots on the manifold side. Looks like POP Y to me, POPS Yoshimura, could be

Rare piece, used to ride with a guy who had the Hondoodle cb750 version. Nice find