cnap504

I should have taken a picture of my fix but didn’t. I lapped the rotor on the taper and it smoothed out pretty good. I didn’t do anything to replace the missing metal. After the lapping I seated the rotor to the taper with Loctite 638 retaining compound and used red Loctite on the nut threads, she’s holding up so far.

Does anyone know if Mikuni set up the VM33 smoothbores to be adjustable for different intake bore spacing? I know the Keihin CR specials were but I don’t remember about the VM33’s.

Soon to be started, cleaned carbs, fuel tank, petcock, lapped rotor to taper and secured with Loctite 638, new battery and cables, oil & filter & plugs. This one sat it a garage dormant for eight years after the alternator rotor spun.

Sprocket Specialists have late model and early model stuff. And they answer the phone.

Yep, I remember now, the air correction jets to reduce air intake. DynoJet used those a lot in their jetting kits.

What are air correctors? I have recently been on a mission to save old non running bikes. I’ve done four sets of Mikuni bst cv 34 carbs, they all wound up using #45 pilots with good results

Yep like the V&H sidewinder. I found a pretty decent used one on ePay, hemmed and hawhed around till someone else got it. Regret that damned it.

Hello again, can anyone give me the part number for the fuel adjustment screws on this ‘82 GS1000SZ ? I looked on an online microfiche and they are not shown, presumably because they are “non-serviceable” plugged off pieces. I have aluminum top cv carbs (US market), measured at 34mm. Thanks

Talked to a friend of mine who has been in the mc repair and wrecking yard business for many years, his recommendation was after lapping the taper heat the rotor on a hot plate until it’s as hot as it will get then install to shaft and torque to spec. This will allow the expanded rotor to cool and contract tightly to the crank taper. Also he suggests making sure the ign timing is standard not advanced and maintaining a good proper battery that holds its charge

Recently acquired a non-running 1982 Katana in fair shape. Removed the tank and carbs for cleaning, two stroke oiled the cylinders and installed a new battery. After letting the cylinder oil set for a day I turned the motor over manually, so far so good. Figured I try the starter and it free spun, no clatter and no crank rotation. I remember back in the day that some of the 1000 Katanas would spin the alt. rotor on the end of the crank. Pulled the cover and rotor off, it’s eaten up pretty bad. I’m going to use lapping compound and get as much good contact area back as I can, then put Loctite retaining compound on the surfaces. Any suggestions welcome.

WD-40 good for metal, not good for rubber, especially slide diaphragms

80 mph speedo, CV carbs, and a 16” front wheel. The wheel doesn’t look terrible but I don’t think it’s original

Plans are to get it running, do the service it needs to be safe and reliable. Then do some riding

Hello everyone, found a cat, I mean Kat that needed a home. Hadn’t been running in 8 years but was garage stored. 1982 GS1000 Katana.

Just looked up RK’s 520 ZXW chain, it’s rated 9,500 lbs tensile strength and 200hp. I just didn’t realize a 520 would work on the 1150. Seems that it would be fine.

Thanks for cross reference info and the spline dimensions

I have found a lot of websites that do have countershaft sprockets for the GS1150 but none offering a 525. I went to the link you gave me, www.sportsbikeshop.co.uk and checked every 525 countershaft available for Suzuki’s, this is what’s listed: DL1000, DL650, GSF650, GSR600’ GSR750, GSXR600, GSXR750, GSX650F, SV650. Maybe one of these have the same output shaft splines as an 1100/1150 but they gave no specific fitment reference as such.

I’d like to do a 525 chain conversion on a 1985 GS1150 but I can’t seem to find a countershaft sprocket. Anyone know where they can be found?

I’m taking my 1150 clutch apart to check the condition of the plates as I have an intermittent slip problem. There is a wire ring that holds the last metal plate in, I haven’t removed it yet, debating whether or not I should. What’s up with that thing?

Wiseco, CP, MTC, JE ? I need a piston kit for an 1150, but who makes a reliable street piston 10 to 1 or 10.5 to 1

APE has a 1327cc stock block big sleeve kit. Their website has a drawing of the available sleeves and measurements. If you are asking about factory Suzuki sleeves, I dunno

I have recently changed oil and filter, and I don’t know what oil was in it prior. Now using Valveoline mc, half 10/40 dino, and half 20/50 dino, not synthetic and not synth blend.

10,000 miles, but I have only had it for 1,500 miles and the clutch issue has just recently shown up. I am going to check the arm alignment and it’s free play, cable adjustment also. I am most familiar with those clutches that use an adjustable “worm gear” that have you run the adj screw in and back out 1/4 turn. So maybe I’m missing something on the GS setup. Thanks for the responses

Strange but true, my 1986 GS1150’s clutch slips in 4th and 5th @ w.o.t. in the upper rev range. It’s a stock bike with pipe and carb jetting. The clutch works great until it hits higher r’s in the higher gears. I’m using dino motorcycle specific oil. Thought about putting in some Barnett springs but the site has two spring sets for the 1150, one with no particular description and the other set denotes heavy duty application. Low mileage bike with stock power, what to do?