wraith
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Posts posted by wraith
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B12/b6
in Oil Cooled
Cool, so the b6 CDI works with the b12 motor, that's great
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B12/b6
in Oil Cooled
Ok, got a b12 (think MK2 harness) b6 MK2 harness b6 MK2 clock's. ( For the 650kat b12 project)
Going to be using a b12 MK1 motor with b6 MK2 harness and clock's, (was going to use the b12 harness but only one blue plug for clock's)
the b12 CDI/ ECU plugs into the b6 harness but the wire colours are in a different place and there one extra wire on the b12 harness (black/red)
So questions:
Will the b12 CDI work on the b6 harness (if I change the wires around)?
What about the black/red wire
Would a b6 CDI with pickup plate and rota or just pickup plate work on the b12 motor (less messing plug and play)?
Any info will be glad of
Cheers.
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Nice was not 100% I could remember there was something different between the two
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37 minutes ago, Dezza said:
OSS member lived in Spain and did much of his (high quality and knowledgable) work outside in his back yard
A series of searches may bring it up.
As it's pissing it down here at the moment and seems like it has been for the last month, working outside in the sunshine sounds good
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Not sure on this one but aren't the gear box bearings different on the b12 and gsxr1100m?
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22 minutes ago, Nelson said:
Cheers Wraith,
All oil cooled gennies are the same, it's just the drive cog on the end,
That's great news, thanks Wraith
Pics
Left slabside 750 center I think the old gsx1100f one right gsxr1100k
B6 one in b6 motor
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10 minutes ago, Nelson said:
Cheers Wraith,
All oil cooled gennies are the same, it's just the drive cog on the end,
That's great news, thanks Wraith
Some have different looking covers (sprocket side) but they all do the same job
for a teapot one on my gsx1100f motor and it's been in it for about 6 years with no problems.
The only ones that just come to mind are some of the 750 teapots they have the two sides plug into them instead of the two wires coming out of them with the plug on.
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Once you know it's your alternator/geny that's gone and not a bad wire.
All oil cooled alternators can be swapped you just need to change the cog for the one on yours, the only other thing that maybe different is the plug on the 2 wires, so unless you want to keep it standard slabside have a look at b6 ones as they seem to go cheep on that site.
Otherwise I do have a slabside 750 one in a box but I will have to dig it out and check it.
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Nice, do like the Cobra zorst.
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As gixer1460 "check the needles / emulsion tubes for wear"
Also check pilot jets are not blocked or muck in the tubes to the pilot screws.
Very basic, upto 3rpm pilot juts/screws 3-6rpm needles above main jets with a slight overlap between each. Like I say very basic did have a diagram that came with a Dyna jet kit some where and someone posted a pic of one once, it a help/ guide for carb tuning.
The slides at the bottom part have (can't remember if it's one or two holes) one will be drilled out and sometimes a plastic plug/jet put in.
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28 minutes ago, clivegto said:
It's for a b12 clutch
as @dupersuncsays gsxr600 k4 hub and outer plate (thing the springs go in 
don't know the name for it before some dim wit gets a big head because they know a name ) into b12 basket, then you can convert the b12 to a spring clutch. -
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16 minutes ago, Duckndive said:
Err no
1052 slabby basket has different tooth count to a 1127 slingshot basket.....
Then what was the swap using a 1052 clutch in the 1127 ?
I DID say READ Frankenstein pages didn't I or are we getting a bit petty
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89 is that the last 1052 or the 1127 or are we on the 750 engine?
If you have the gsxr1127k you can put the 1052 slab in, have a look in Frankenstein pages on how to
but when it comes to clutches no matter which one it is they are never cheep.
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It looks like a home made bit?
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Get the key and glue it in ?
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FBB, you've got it, was making two stainless rods, one for the F motor and for the little b6 motor, and I put the wrong ones in each motor
sometimes asking a questions just makes you think of the obvious you didn't think of -
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Should be taper, unless last owner had done some messing with different front end.
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Looks good for a good summer ride
but with them Donator tween spots you won't be going that quick at night I take it after the summer engine and running gear is going in a GS and sell the frame to one of the race boys
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Semi 10/40
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Just need to check with you lot, finding it hard/impossible to get neutral when engine is running. All the other gears go in nice and smooth with no problems.
I've re-blead the clutch, cleaned the push rod and checked the the outer basket and inner basket/hub have not got big groves in them.
So now down to ever selector rod or selector forks?
Is there anything else I need to look at?
Cheers for any help.
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Nice one, thanks
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What engine is it for?
Seen some on the bay
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Thanks to you both
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1980 gs550 rear set
in Air Cooled
Posted
Welcome to OSS
Always best to introduce yourself with pics of said bike in the general section and RTFR before jumping in with questions, or a lot of OSS will not part with there hard earned know how