wraith
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Posts posted by wraith
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Been done lots so should be a lot of info out there, and quite a lot in these pages
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A non in-depth answer to the question is NO
As he's not put any other posts up I think he has had no one offering to build it for him so has fucked off and got a HD
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With all what's been done to the engine, you have to ask yourself why did the last owner sell it.
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Not 100% on this, have a look at Frankinsten pages there something about bearing with the 6speed box that needs to be changed/ case altered.
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Just to get the basic, have you had the bike/engine running with a working clutch?
Or is it a engine you've not had running on the road?
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Something wrong with the center hub it's sticking out to far looking at the pics
Yes you're right 92mm push rod for gsx1100f
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I got a complete set of steels and fibers from Robinson's about 5 years ago for my gax1100f engine/clutch all the fibers came the same part number and they told me that was right, and haven't had any problems with it. Will till I made a Ti push rod and got the size/length mix up
The push rod is the same size as the gsxr 101mm I know this as I order a new one for the gax1100f from Robinson's to make sure I had the right size
By the way the pressure plate is the same as the 1100 slaby
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Ok the man is in the US if the 650 chain drive can be got over there, why piss about swapping top ends just put the hole 650 engine in?
Also, yes there was a gs700 and a gs500 (not the twin
) there was also a gs750 shaft drive, think it was because if emissions?
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2 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:
Apologies for the 650 confusion - we only got the 650 Shafty as a Katana of all things, but I can't see Suzuki re-engineering a whole separate engine just for a chain drive variant - can you?
Err gsx1100g (1127cc) gsx1100f (1127cc) gsxr1100 (1127cc) all the same but very different
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Just don't put a brown seat on the Suzuki, put it on the HD
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1 hour ago, Captain Chaos said:
Lots of typos
And lots
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Depends on how much beer you have had or not had could be both
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Thank you sir, lots of them
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I would think that battery would be ok on its side as they are a dry cell
Been a long time since I've alter my timing and will need to check the best timing but if you do a search or start at topic someone will know off the top of there head
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20 minutes ago, 109Countries said:
So do I just take a rat tail file to slot the sprockets?
Lol good luck with that, as they are harden steel
Have a look on that site for APE slotted cam sprockets, they have a slot instead of a M6 bolt hole.
If it was me, I'd just alter the ATU timing much easier to do with a Strobe light, and you will be able to feel the pick up when riding.
You only see good benefits doing the cams if you're using hi lift cams.
Swing arm, you have two types you have put in your links, one a shaft drive swing arm and the other a gsx1100 (4v) neaver will fit a gs550 frame, (unless your 550 is a shaft drive lol) the gsx1100 swing arm has a different pivot spindle size as in the gs550 is much smaller and you will need to sleeve down
I'm doing a gs550 with a bandit 600 swing arm ( in projects section heading project see how we go) they are lighter than the standard gs550 swing arm and being box steel easy to weld tags on for a twin shocks if you wanted.
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As far as I know, you will need slotted can sprockets the degree the cams, for what it's worth I wouldn't bother myself, not like your running race cams, yes remove the valves and clean them with brass brush, but stay away from matting area and lap in with past.
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Yes sprockets DO need to be swapped.
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Ok, first of all the gs650 barrels some go straight into the gs550 bottom end (crank case) and some you need to open up the top crank case mouths (where the barrels go into. Not sure witch do and don't.
You can use ever the 550 or 650 cams, I think the 550 are a better cam unless you get the gs650 katana cams. You will need to use your gs550 cam sprockets on whichever cams you use.
If you have the gs650 carbs use them manly because the pilot jets will be right, see if anybody dose a Leadar kit ? Or start with a 120 main jet and go from their, this will all depend on which filters and end can (muffler) you use.
Points, in grate power increase in changing them, just a electric one is less messing.
Coils, yes the gs550 will work ok.
Cams degree the cams won't harm and may give you a small gain, but if you want some more hp as the 650 head is off remove the valves port the head (home job just remove the ruth castings in the ports) don't go crazy with this unless you know what your doing, to much can have a negative impact. Lap the valves back in and that will help.
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Cheers
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I know the MK2 alt will fit the MK1 cases.
Is the sprocket on the back that goes into the clutch the same, or do you need to swap them?
Thanks.
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Shift at lower revs
and don't wait for the valves to come through your tank before you go for the next gear 
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13 minutes ago, Mouse said:
sit down now as just found out the price of the rear tensioner, looking at £350 plus
Them cam chain blades are not cheep for the oem did the same for my GS but fell lucky and found some new ones on eblag from the USA as a clear out for 1/2 the price and that was with the post
Worth if you're not in a rush to trall the net
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46 minutes ago, Ibbo said:
hi Wraith, why did you go back?
mike
Just a bit of piece of mind, for the price of a spring you know it's always right.
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Unless you have a tuned motor I wouldn't bother with a manual tensioner, just put a new spring on the OEM one. You can easily put to much tension in the chain with a manual one. Have heard of the OEM ones sticking and not doing there job.
Clean oil and well service engine
Had a manual one on my gs1000 and ended up putting a OEM one back on
Dumb GS1100 (GSX1100) racer build ????
in Air Cooled
Posted
Cut out the standard cap area and weld in a cap/top of tank area from a newer model and then the world is your oyster