Joseph

I have a tank that has a solid base and overall clean, but rusted through at the badge areas on the sides if that could be of any help for you to fix this one ?

If you're on a budget you can make all the removable side cover gaskets yourself out of a sheet of gasket paper (5-7 quid should buy you a size big enough to do all + have some left over)

Would you like us to pop round and build your bike for you ?

same job described in there can be on an oilcooled slingshot except it doesn't involve any drilling My '91 with gen 1 busa arm :

Try a search you'll find the info needed. It's not a complex mod, but you'll need a few bolt on parts to get the linkage to work.

Green yellow going to the neutral switch maybe linked to a cut off system ? Hard to read on this diagram but ? https://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg3/alex23_4/GSXRWiring-UnsureComponentsMarked_zps8ca5bd89.jpg

Yellow with green tracer or Green with yellow tracer ? On OSS bikes, the first option is related to the starter system But if its coming from the engine pick up lead/area, and it is indeed green with yellow tracer, it's sounds like its the oil pressure sender wire ?

I've used it/use it to work out speeds per rev on bike engine car projects, so putting in car size tyres to check their influence (so you know what to fit) + calculating the sprocket ratio that matches the fact that you're adding a car diff in the mix, it proved to be rather exact.

Shouldn't stop you from ordering a Suzuki part if you have the ref ? Sure it won't be in stock at the dealer, but

Example of one fitted on a slingshot arm (disregard the R1 brace)

They're probably close to bandit ones like said above ? Maybe something in where the screws go make the Inazuma one easier to adapt for example ?

NLA I thought that they all are, from slabside to WC. Easy enough to adapt an inazuma one onto OSS GSXR, it's known to fit with a bit of fettling

Just heard from the welder, the plenum is almost done

Black windows are basically Akra rip offs for cheaper prices. Fit fine, exhaust also leaves the engine properly, overall good stuff

The ignition plate is the same on all oil cooled bikes, from the 85 750 to the 2006 GSX 1400, and they were all made with the 4 threaded holes like the slabside needs. I developed this adjustable plate and have had it on Bandit GSXR and GSX14 for a couple of tests The only one that has a different part number, but still a same looking part, is the 750 RK, i sold one of mine to a guy who intends to fit it to his RK, he said he'd let me know

I've never found any precise archives on this matter. I know that people have fitted 750R ecus on 11s to raise the limiter, but maybe for the GSXRs thats the main difference ? Talking advance, note that it seems that it's the ignition rotor that defines advance changes, i've noticed that while tinkering between an R a B12 and GSX 1400 trying to sort out my conversion on the 14. It may be the case that it's mainly a limiter level affair. For example the 750W was restricted in France, it was down to the cams, and also a specific french market ECU that supposedly just had a lower rpm limit. Yoshimura provided an ECU for the same bike and the only difference with that part is a higher limiter

Provided the connector plugs are the same (i think none of the Bandit are) you can make any ECU work, they're all wired the same, even WC GSXRs (banana arm, can't remember the wiring on the mk2 WC) That said, how the curve and rev limiter are set is a different matter, but any of the ones using the same plugs will make your engine and tacho run

If the GS550 tank fits on i have a NOS one in original paint

Soda blasting could safely get the old crud off without damaging anything ? RAL 7021 in satin finish has been known to give a close to factory finish, classic 2K can be used on an engine

Hi Long shot, but does anyone have a photo of the ignition system on an RK ? The engines have differences compared to a regular 750 but did they and if so why change the ignition setup behind the cover ? Thanks

True, however if you put the full beams on for a minute or two before starting it in cold weather it really keeps it in good shape because it heats it up and gets the CCA flowing well rather than hitting the start button right off and straining it I rode all year round for a long time, always using lithium batteries, once i had learned that trick they have always done well

You could also find a mud guard you like (glassfiber replica) and do some fiber work in order to modify that so it matches how the original one fits onto the alloy brace ?