Joseph

No website he just does them to order in his free time. I'll get his email for you

There's a home garage guy on my side of the channel who 3D prints them (and others) with an adequate plastic material

Indeed, any engine with an alloy head and hard steel valve seats is fine with unleaded.

If we're talking engine side covers, part number differences can be down to : - paint colour of said part, for the ignition sender and flywheel - engine oil capacity moulded in the clutch cover That doesn't mean they won't interchange. More specifically, the sprocket cover has many versions (cable or hydro, speedo sensor or not) but thats an obvious giveaway Generally speaking, anything post slabside generation engine can interchange.

Hardly a feat because RF carbs are downdraught too. None of that will work on 85-95 GSXR

On the right, an oil cooled header. On the left, a K1 header To answer your question : probably a no

It's still the best option

Yes and a turbo pressure one as well could be useful. Is there a benchmark fuel pressure level these turbo bikes seem to need ?

No gauge, no idea ?

Oops no they are downdraught carbs like lots of modern sporty bikes. Frame shape of the RF allowed that

RF900 won't be an option.

Right, i've been using it some, and have now experienced what had been mentioned as top end fueling issues. Open wide and it goes ratatatata and doesn't pick up smoothly. If you nurse it gradually, opening, pulling back a slight bit, then opening a bit more, pulling back a bit, etc power/speed goes up and up and up no problem. As if the carb bowls were getting emptied in a blink when opening the throttle fully ?

Yes with 1200 and cams in the EFE that sounds realistic

Definitely the EFE

And it's not that complicated a piece of metal either. Just 4 tabs for the seat plastic and one bridge thingy at the back for the seat lock. But that eFag tip sounds good indeed. Many german Katanas were massacred

Hehe. So basically this fuel setup is kind of verging on a fuel injection feed system, sort of ?

The fact that it requires hacking up the subframe is indeed unfortunate

That would definitely benefit from a proper exhaust and factory seat cowl while you're doing the mot and uk import stuff

Hmm, right, i see what you're getting at but i think that while i am renewing the lines i might as well plumb the system as per the regulator instructions and see how that goes.

Need to check what Malpassi model i have. But the way this is set up seems to make sense :

Despite your explanations I don't understand why my system is fitted like this :

But in my case it looks like the FPR has no influence on the carbs since the fuel feed to the carbs doesn't transit via the FPR. If the T at the pump exit has one line straight to the carbs and one to a FPR that then goes to the return in tank, surely the carbs are getting full pressure ?

Right so here is whats what when i got the bike. (Bearing in mind it was a non runner, and Viz just put it back together just bolted up because of a house move.) I put fuel in, ign on, fuel pump whirring but would not start. I ended up working out that the pump was wired in reverse, making it not suck from the tank but blow into it. So I swapped it over and then had a shower of fuel under the tank because the return line wasn't tightened After that the bike started fine. Now unless I've got things badly mistaken about how turbo bikes are fed, this seemed wrong. Only thing is, the pump terminals were not the same size screw, so you can't swap over the ring terminals ? Other than that, here is plumbing list in it's current order : Petcock on PRI > Inline fuel tap > electric pump > Brass T connector : one end of T goes straight to carbs, the other end goes to the fuel pressure regulatore > Return line plugs into the filler cap drain pipe under the tank that has been cut off The T piece jobby seems weird ? Surely it should be : Fuel pump > Regulator > One line to the carbs, one line back to tank ?

The front and sides are fine, main issue will be at the back, you can see how short the oil cooled tank falls compared to the rear mount screws on the W frame. Also, check pictures online, the W tank swoops down lower towards the top rail of the subframe (around that second squarish angle of the main frame.