Joseph

Well i don't have measures but it's going to be a bit of a headache to replicate one. Have a look at racing fairing stays, they're minimalistic and you'd probably be able to sort something out down those lines

Haha. Yeah i pencilled in the TTX shock option on the provisional spec sheet of this build. You mention K6 shock but i thought they didn't have a clevis lower mount ? If that can be swapped out it would allow more source options, is that what you did ?

Will do. The shock i'm looking at fitting is from the Ohlins TTX range so i'm hoping there will be enough adjustability to tune it

Cool. I checked, spring rate is higher on the intended shock than the slingshot shock (seems common on more recent suspension items) Stroke is 60 on the replacement for 67 on the slingshot, does that seem reasonable ?

I think it should be doable, but in the interest of high quality aftermarket shock use, could i get away with using a 300mm shock from another brand (mountwise it is compatible) on a slingshot frame (312 shock i think ?), thanks to adjustable dogbones alone ?

Any decent stainless system in complete mode is around 7 kilos indeed, a stock twin can system for an 1100 must easily be around 15 ? Ti system at most peoples build level requirements you may not feel or need the difference for a bike used for commute trips but fitting racey bits to a sportsbike always feels good My K1 header i won on eFag germany for 12€90 so that helped make a choice

Definitely original pattern blue and white, for some dumb reason

You can use a W tank bracket. It's bolted on the frame on the watercooled bikes (pictured in that photo i put here the other day)

I fitted a GSXR fork on my katana, and bought a matching pattern ignition switch for it. Sure enough, the pattern key opened the OE tank and seat lock

That they make up for threefold in extra bracing to stop it all flapping about I guess

The road is the biggest track in the world

Right. Didn't know rofidal did anything yoshi styled. I mean we're stuck with it now, we'll be able to sort it out to a decent standard but (and i ordered one at the same time for my '92 W) Poly26 ones are very heavily built (priced accordingly to the materials used i guess). What they make is around 4mm thick. Would be good to have something inbetween, thickness wise. How much bracing is needed with these thinner fairings ?

Also available here for a similar price https://a.aliexpress.com/_uJVjaS I know someone who used them to fit the larger OD BST38s too

W650 1999-2006 W800 2011-2016 ZX6R 1998-2005 ZR750 2004-2006 ZX9R 1998-2003 ZX10R 2004-2005

That little extra bit allows easy fitment of an Electronic speedo on old oil cooled bikes that no longer have the cable drive It's the mk2 bandit pick up, that has a magnet sensor on the sprocket cover

Well it'll fit at some point, but it's wafer thin wobbly and the side panels don't slot into the undertray on the right side (side panel too large) you have to force stuff it in (ultimately redo the glassfiber at that area) and on the other side the shape is completely off, creating a convex recess at the front of the fairing where the side panel joins the undertray. I really wouldn't recommend this to anyone it's far from a nice job that one could expect adjusting new fairings to a bike could be I'm in France

Well after 4 days on it. It's just fucking trash, never seen such shit stuff

Although not really technically useful, the engine mount screws, and the wheel and swingarm spindles, go in from left to right, so indeed clutch side on the ground makes sense

I've been road abusing a 6 speed gearbox thanks to a 1216 with ported head, SERT cams, race carbs, race exhaust etc it's just had it's 5000 km service with no teeth in the oil pan yet. I always use the clutch and am not always thrashing it but i'm guessing it's a healthy engine pushing well over 150 ? Like @Nik(although less mileage ridden) i would not want a 5 speed anymore nor a stock 1127 either come to think about it

Nah indeed it's clip ons under the yoke all the way Not the best fitment these ragged edge fairings though, bulged inwards on the left side between the undertray and main fairing joining line among other defects

I'm not Prince William so Airtech is a bit out of budget We got 2 sets from Raggededge, i suppose the original fairings were built for quite a tiny race factory made frame, and the fairings available were moulded from the original race fairings ? I seem to have managed to get somewhere since i posted, (tbh i completely overlooked the raised LSL clip ons my mate had on the bike, they completely messed up perception of things) But still very confused as to how much of the undertray i seem to need to lop off for it to clear the exhaust : Basically the whole fairing needs to : - come up a bit - go back a bit - rotate slightly clockwise (it's slanted down/backwards at the mo) Only way this can be done is by chopping all the "race" extension off the rear of the undertray This bike (granted is a 750, and i don't know what exhaust header it's got) doesn't seem to have had that issue :

But it's awesome

Has anyone done this ? Because i'm helping a mate do it on his, but, it seems impossible ? Under tray can't not hit the front tyre, angle of said under tray doesn't allow to line up with the head fairing join line (15cm gap at the rear) Comparing to photos online i can't see it matching at all

Slingshot taps have two feed spigots and one vacuum spigot.

Nope, but they just fit like standard carbs you can't go wrong