Gixer1460

No such animal as a T34 - that was a Russian WW2 Tank! - Its probably a T3 / T4 hybrid. It'll be big, it'll probably be 'laggy' and why the carbon seal as the Cosworth installation wouldn't have needed it? £500 sounds a bit spendy to me for something that may not suit a bike.

Gotta be worth a punt then as long as it ain't Fubar'd

No offence taken, I just feel for peeps who go chasing bar room horsepower that is impractical in use but your train set so knock yourself out.

I never said they were optimal but have yet to find anyone who could use all the performance from bigger carbs DAY 2 DAY against the smaller ones! My 1460 has 185hp with 46mm EFI but also works with 40mm RS flatslides - probably 170hp - but the 40's produces soooo much more torque that can be used DAY 2 DAY they work better! A M8 had 41mm FCRs on his 1216 bandit (which engine wise was mostly GSXR, only bandit cases) and made great power but likes the RS36's fitted now better cos they make nearly the same power @ WOT but out torque the bigger carbs by miles in the mid range!

Google doesn't have much info on that unit but it seems that it may be a derivative of the RBH5 unit which was considered suitable 'back in the day' for 1100 size engines, so should be ok for a sub 1 bar boost set up. Better be very cheap as spares may not be common!

In my experience, 175+psi is good with no more than 10psi spread. Warm engine best although cold will give similar readings for diagnostics just a bit lower. ALWAYS throttle open!

And the moral is - you was a spotty 'no nufink' yoof who didn't know that cylinder head temp gauges and oil temp gauges were and are available for aircooled VW's

Yeah - Vizman buys it all - official OSS Sh1te tester LOL! An overly hot engine is natures way of telling you that, 'YOUR RIDING TOO SLOW!' In all honesty an oil pressure gauge would be far more use and give more useful info..............if you have time to clock a gauge!

And No!

Quantify that - how much better ? with associated engine mods?

Query - why fit 38's when 36's will generally suit mild to semi wild ? Always though 34's would probably produce a stonking road engine!

The water cooled turbos were introduced by car makers who were fed up having warranty claims on turbos due to hot shut downs! Red hot turbo shut down with no oil circulation and it cooks the residual oil to coke and done enough times = fubar'd bearings! With water around the bearings, the water will continue to take away the heat after shut down. Just a few minutes at idle after a thrash will prevent coking. BUT IMO the new breed of BB turbos that rely on plastic bearing cages really do need the water cooling for a long life.

Why is the answer always...................................................GOOGLE IT!

Safe to say......................don't trust the gauge! You've probably got nearly 5 gallons main tank so i'd brim the tank and zero the trip and ride as normal - its got to do 40-45 miles / gallon so a potential range of 200-225 miles whilst still tap is 'on' but you really need to establish 'on' and 'reserve' for peace of mind - sorry can't help you there!

For me, I wouldn't have used the 'vacuum' ports for fuel reg as this will try to lower fuel pressure when throttles are closed - ok with EFI and is the norm but not necessary with carbs. They just need a static FP that rises dynamically with boost that is sourced from the pitot tube.

I think for a Compbike you may end up overpowering the chassis! CB is restricted on tyre size these days and a 10" is really going to struggle with 300 odd hp! If its a big tyre then you jump straight into FB and play with the big boyz in which case - GT3071R blow through, Intercooler, methanol, compress the hell out of it and go racing. T3's are a bit old skool, certainly capable of carbon sealing and a bit big for what they give and probably not that common anymore - pointless buying a cheap one if it needs £250 worth of rebuilding. That size engine sounds like GSX / KZ? in which case oil pressure will be marginal for plain bearing turbos - the BB blow thro' ones score here.

As above - mods required for chain clearance BUT unless you are running a good load of extra power, a 17 front will pull like a slug - its equal to 6 or 7 off the back!

A fairing doesn't have to mean airflow free! They do look quite vulnerable for a race bike as well?

That is BAD! But i'd have to add a fairing just to hide the coolers LOL!

If I had to look around, i'd seriously consider the MS3 Pro - does sequential everything, as clever as most out there, small / compact, is COMPLETELY waterproof and is competitively priced - perfect for bike application and the associated tuning / data analysis software isn't bad either. Edit - Seller has revised waterproof to 'splashproof' but unit can be immersed in few inches of water for a few minutes - I read that as pretty waterproof in most cases of use!

M8 - you've just given access to all your business quotes to everyone! Probably not a good move?

Or Sharpies 'Magic Markers' / similar felt tip marker pens - work just the same. Who knew WH Smiths did engineering supplies!

Funnily enough there are still 36 teeth on a 36 tooth wheel whether its 50mm or 500mm LOL!

I second the grinding paste option - get both surfaces nice and uniform grey and matt finish. Then windy gun the crap out of the bolt. A more drastic solution is use diamond dust impregnated grease used by Ford to secure non keyed cam wheels to camshafts - the diamond dust locks them real tight!

Never known a bearing supplier have white metal shell bearings - such a specialist item so good luck.