Gixer1460

Every day is a skool day ! Nice to find something so rare - still looks odd though LOL!

Guides - certainly but haven't heard of anyone needing to change seats. Are they mullered or could they be salvaged with a cut - not a grind as that's a waste of time after new guides?

There have been more than a couple of engines that have used a 36-1 trigger wheel paired with std inductive pick-up so that shouldn't be an issue - Triggerwheels.com do a 50mm 36-1 that has been tested to 17k rpm with a good trace. I don't know that much about the Megasquirt set ups so can't really advise - sorry!

Sorry - i'm not seeing a Spondon! The headstock / frame look particularly weak and never seen a 'backbone' with a beam framed bike!

Not knocking the work - its mint, but Bindit suspenders aren't the best in the world so adding extra leverage and drag starts could tax the shock.

If you are diligent with oil changes and allowing a turbo spool / minute cool down then its immaterial - any will be fine! If you are an animal with the mechanical sympathy of a cold chisel, then Bike Based Synthetic will be of benefit!

Its all simpler than that! The stock CDI is looking for coil resistances of about 3 ohms.......stick coils are usually sub 1ohm and you've possibly wired them parallel so they are trying to draw approx 24A instead of the 4A as stock - no wonder they are getting toasted / ignition amps getting fried!

If the offset required is 10mm then a 3/8" offset front sprocket should solve that - used to be available from Debbens? You could use a 520 chain although i'd make sure it was a decent manufacturer and bearings can always be swopped around / changed entirely to get over spindle issues - just a lot of faffing around!

.......which contains salt! So probably not the best engine detergent!

Bluing is usually surface burnt oil - will come off with scotchbrite - they'd have to get actually red hot to lose temper and properly 'blue up'

Hmmm not a common conversion but if it works....... Straight cuts may be $425 but also have to factor in ££ for a crank and clutch rebuild just to fit the gears!

Different ignition ecu, different clocks etc so you'd need the Blandit plugs anyway unless you swopped to everything to suit the loom.

Agreed - minimal weight will hold loads - 10mm M6 SS cap screw and nyloc x4 ok with 370hp and disengagement was fine! Std. lentgh and poundage springs are fine - the lock up takes care of the rest. H/Duty springs are heavy in the fingers and a turbo will usually blow through them anyway!

No - Virtually no one ever does external lines to feed the head on GSXR based motors - the above picture is a GSX which are more suitable but still need some work to block off the std. feeds if using external lines. Oil lines for turbo and for cam feeds don't need to be the same place - its just more convenient.

Bindits have bits no others have so unless you want to start hacking and chopping (which you might anyway) then stick with Bindit!

Very Nice Ken - now show how to do it on a Bandit! My Kawazuki coped fine with APE studs and turbo feed off the main gallery. The GSXR range have excessive oil pressure which is regulated down so additional flow will be compensated for by the relief valve.

70cm doesn't seem that deep - sort of nearly carb height? If so - there may be no water in it whatsoever? How else would it get in?

A M8 had FCR41's on his 1216 Bindit and although they were set up they were just too big for everyday use. He's now got RS36's and likes them better, he can use them more and gives plenty power for the street - it'll loft the wheel in 3rd so happy bunny. 38's might be the ultimate for road application!

To a degree - Yes. The cases aren't physically weak but the bolting method and layout is. With BIG power the crankshaft and gearbox shafts can move about and they try to 'climb' over each other causing the cases to jack apart. No one has really solved it using std. cases - HD studs and nuts help, oversided if your into major engineering. That's why the Pro1 billet cases were developed and promptly banned by NHRA et al - bit daft as stronger cases could reduce the cost of racing!

I can only speak about 3 extreme GSX applications - Kev Charman's Nitrous CB and FB's, The Jones & Friend FB and Big CC's 1540 Nitrous EFE - all used Suzuki 493 rods and all were making up to 400hp without failure. Forced induction makes the power but is generally easier on rods unless you over rev them. PSB's will use 493's but due to the revs, they'll be swopping cranks every couple of meetings (or passes in the USA!)

It won't go 'less tight' as the ratchet will hold it static but you will lose spring tension against the plunger. If its just one click you want then loosen the two mounting screws so whole tensioner backs off by a mm which is about one click on the ratchet - you could bollux the gasket if its never been removed since being built!

Who told you that? RR Dynojet dynos only give rear wheel horsepower - nothing else! It may be converted / corrected to recognised standards but its still power at the wheel. Unlike car dynos there is not enough inertia in a bike driveline to obtain a 'losses' figure so any crankshaft figure is purely speculative.

Compare two different screws for the taper - the odd one is probably a rogue replacement!

if you are quoting stock horsepower (155) then the manufacturers tend to quote crankshaft horsepower not rear wheel. Yours is a bit down as i would expect 10% difference on average?

'Ventolin' cos I imagine it'll be a tad asthmatic?