Gixer1460

Or even this one ...... https://innovatemotorsports.com/support/manual/LC-1_Manual.pdf It's the same one I have for my car but without the gauge - got a whole kit but the switch / LED bit is daftly easy to do.

Well i've blown the manifold off a few engines whilst using dodgy ignition kill with an air shifter on turbo motors, and seeing as a lot of people bolt the manifold to the head, you lose that potential pressure release. Nitrous assist is always good for a spectacular backfire. Anyway it's all info for the masses.

Thanks for the circuit diagram which I sort of followed, although some of the component symbols are beyond me and none of the components were listed in my freebie PCB designer software so got a bit stuck ! You may have another sale here - even a kit of parts would be good - metal gluing is easy, and satisfying!

That's an interesting comment re: backfires. If anyone has had a mooch around a Top Fuel bike or car they tend to have sacrificial burst panels built into the manifold to protect the blower essentially. The one on Ian King's bike was a 2" / 50mm dia disc of what looked like tin foil that held 40 - 50psi boost but a backfire would rip it to shreds and release boost pressure safely.

True - but when does it become out of tolerance ? If you are anywhere in the south / south coast - I'd recommend Turbo Dynamics in Christchurch - always done good work and come up with solutions to my requests - I used to spend between £200 - 250 each time including full strip, rebuild and balance, labour and parts. Even when swapping parts, the old bits had value so it's not like having to buy a whole new compressor say.

No arguments please but he does have a point - look at the tacked joints inside - there is no penetration from the outside finish welds, likewise the top closing weld on the far edge - maybe 0.5mm deep (visual guess) - I'd say not if, but when, for weld fracture.

I believe there is possibly a mix up between centre to centre measurements and edge to edge measurements? All air and oil cooled suzukis have had 77 - 93 - 77 ctr. to ctr. carb. bores forever. Dunno what the water boilers ended up as?

If the fuel supply is higher than the carbs then the float bowls will always fill by gravity!

I hate vernier calipers - I was using the end of the slide - not where the '0' was ! DOH! Long live Digital Calipers for Idiots - like me LOL!

Hmmmm! I understand the PWM principle and can glue wires together well enough but creating circuits is beyond my understanding - do you have a sketch or circuit diagram to give it a go....... no point having a 400hp pump when bike only needs a 200hp one!

No harm in checking - build it right - build it once!

Sorry can't help on this one as a) my GSXR has better alt. output and b) I added a bigger AH battery to give a better buffer. Was going to suggest dropping FP and increase opening times - but Arttu's PWM solution sound the better option? @Arttu- on 1/2 power do you still need to adjust inj. times to compensate - or run an alternate map?

Just checked my mapping - bearing in mind its a 2.0L Zetec engine ! Coilpack with 3000us setting (I used 3500us with dyna greens and Motec ECU on my bike), Throttle transients - dunno! Using the settings from base map, std. Mondeo injectors (200cc I think) 0.7 dead time. Regarding the Throt. Transients - DTA has 3 bikes mapped - all suzuki! - and their TT's do vary slightly but not massively to each other or to my zetec tune so would safely say the settings have 'minimal effect' - just smooth the rough edges on accell and decell? Hope that helps.

Could be right! - have semi downdraft float bowls?

I have one on my Mk2 Escort - what problems?

The ID bore would tend to suggest 36mm OD so not 1100M carbs which would be 40mm OD - but they could have been swapped as 40mm's are a PITA to tune easily. Looks like a DJ needle but its a while since I've seen one! DJ main jets are sized in steps of two - 132, 134, 136 etc and only fit DJ emulsion tubes - threads are different as I remember

The DOT head will only fit one model year of the 750's - sorry I can't recall which - DOH. Between the 90 and the 92, I'd pick the 90 - it may have a slightly inferior inlet port compared to the 92 but came with screw and locknut tappets and so a wider range of aftermarket cams. Unless the class or race series requires the use of 'stock' CV carbs - buy the RS38's or (my prefered carb) the Keihin FCR39's............unless you can afford TMR's. Knowing 'what' cams you 'have' is of interest only if selling them - knowing what you want aftermarket is more crucially important IMO.

What ? Like one of these things? Prefer the second type - plenty of gravity flow to supply an S&S draw thro turbo install for me. Just don't fancy that small area in the sintered type!

I don't remember! I got an 1100 alloy arm and put it in my 750 frame - don't remember changing anything! Certainly didn't drill the frame - biggest I have is 13mm But a file could have seen some action......... but don't think so!

Straight swop - did it on my 750ET about 25 lifetimes ago!

Not wanting to sound obvious but if its a 'race' motor throw 'race' cams at it - then it's not an issue? You are in Trumpland and have some of the best cam grinders available - use their expertise. And I think the CV's (if you are keeping them) will benefit from dual K&N's rather than singles........ just sayin'

And the DOT heads never came with Shim adjusted valves so it couldn't have been a 91' 750! The DOT heads are largely the same ie. same valves, only the cams varied

If they had a stroke of that magnitude they'd be over 1600cc - YeeHar! Early bikes GSXR 1052 etc. had 58mm stroke, the later GSXR 1127 had 59mm stroke. Bores changed by a mm as well. The Hippo was a GSXR with shaft drive added and equally tuneable!

Is that piston back to front but in the right / wrong hole - or is that how it came from the boring place? Only reason I ask, is I thought the 'larger' valve cut-outs on the piston would be for the inlets - I know it's not assembled, just looks odd?

This is the rats nest of crap to be removed and once removed the oval pieces that bolt to the exhaust port need blanking with plates - some performance places do cnc plates or just cut some 3mm alloy plate and shape - leaks here will cause loud backfires on de-cell. Pipe 17 to the carbs can be blocked with an M6 screw and a zip tie to hold in position.