HUM

Hi see here https://gs-classic.de/download/Suzuki_Rahmen1.pdf it is in german, but I think it is self explained cheers Uli

See for examples here ... or here Good Luck

Hi that with the slightly longer lever really works??? I once addressed the same problem in a Suzi forum, because someone said that it didn't work because the path was too long or something similar... some kind of physics stuff with levers... I've been toying with the part of https:// for a long time. www.webike.de/products/21416335.html Cheers Uli

Hi I took a look at the part on eblag Yes, the cables are a bit puny, but cables with nipples can be made. If the knurled screws and the inner workings are also on a bicycle level, you can forget it, the mechanics cannot withstand the pressure in the long run, and it comes from CN I have my doubts.. or is there already experience about the durability? cheers Uli

Hi Many have the problem, and the thing really works? Looks sh.. indeed. Can't you do that at the bottom of the clutch inlet so that it lies on the block under the carburetors. What is that thing made of, metal or plastic? Well, when we were 20, we didn't have that problem There is also a semi-solution to our problem, which is to let the clutch cable run past the engine at the front, then screw a counterhold to the clutch cover, turn the input lever by 90° and then adjust it... I've seen that on racing bikes before, or look check it out In this position, the train is not as kinked and runs easier. Also what helps is that you only have 50% HD springs in the clutch.. My dream is a hydraulic solution, I haven't found the right slave cylinder yet, Magura is too expensive an the CN parts .... . Maybe someone has a solution ? cheers Uli

Hi It is not WC it is mixed AC + OC + WC and for this Footrests I am looking for rear sets or adapters cheers Uli

sorry I do not know , it is long time ago..

Hi folks 1.) Can someone tell me the exact hole spacing for the footrests on a GSX-R 750 W, type: GR7BB is it 75mm or just 74mm center hole to center hole ..? 2.) which newer models of the GSX-R or SV etc. have the same hole spacing? cheers Uli

Hi see here the version which works... grind off the 3 rivets, disassemble, look for springs that fit and have the power, install them and weld the rivets clean again .. The hillbilly method is instead of new springs, put washers in and hope that they stay in .. Good Luck Uli

Hi try here https://www.suzuki-motorrad-ersatzteile.de/d2p/d2p?ALIAS=25202&BRAND=SUZUKI&CLIENT=LAUX&NAVGROUP=S_gsx6 https://www.suzuki-motorrad-ersatzteile.de/d2p/d2p?ALIAS=25213&BRAND=SUZUKI&MACHINE=1376&NAVGROUP=S_gsx6&PNO=068.P2TSUZUKI940083 cheers

Hi I use 10w40 from Liqui Moly motorbike oil or other brands. With an oil cooler, the oil temperature can sometimes exceed 90 - 100°. I had a GS 1000S which, without an oil cooler, sometimes reached 120° to 140° when driving quickly... I can't say how hot the engine gets, the front head gets hotter than the cylinder, definitely very hot, well over 100° what is normal for an air-cooled engine. I think the oil temperature is important and you can keep that in check with an oil cooler….

see here a good address https://www.cmsnl.com/

Hi 16" you can forget, wobbles from about 180KM/h, We tried it in the 80s/90s, 16"sucked.. What was good, 18" PVM's, or Campagnolo's, you could get them with around 20 Then came the 18" from the first GSXR, in my opinion the breakthrough came with the 17" from the GSXR and the Bandits .. I have in my 1100 E 17" a GSXR 3.5" front 5.5" rear 120 front 180 rear. A compromise between handling and high speed stability , That means in practice, much better handling than the original, and only a little wobbling from about 220KM/h. If you want more directional stability at high speed and fast highway corners, choose 18" If you want better handling in tight corners, choose 17" The prerequisite is always that you want to talk about stability with the old tubular frames, and above all that you don't get scared if the thing wobbles at 200 km/h plus, those were mopeds for men without nerves back then , no pussy helpers like ABS, wheely control, traction control and whatever else there is if anyvody has driven a Kawa 500 mach III beyond 180 KM/h knows what I am talking about cheeers uli

Hello everyone, I would like to build a new Setrab 10 or 13 row oil cooler on my GSX 1100e. Which hose diameter would be optimal dash 6 (8.7mm) dash 8 (11.1mm) mm is the inner diameter oil pump is original I would like to connect the oil cooler to exits left and right to the oil filter, I have an oil filter cover for an EFE cheers Uli

Hi yes do in this way , keep fingers away from E-10, E-10 makes U green slush in the carbs . Better use the Premium fuels with 100 oct. cheers Uli

Hi all I have the impression that it runs a bit too lean, the spark plugs are more gray than brown but in deccellaration I have beyond 5000 backfire in muffler see video Test drive Video setttings gsx 1100e 1047 cc yoshis stage 1 cams 36mm carbs from Efe arther clean 4/1 V&H classic with racing baffle original air filter with box main jets 120 needle in middle mixture 2.75 rotations I think a bigger jets as 122,5 or 125 will help, what do U thnk or does anybody has expirience ? cheers Uli

and me But I also have to say from the look the 18" looks very good... some say , 17" looks a bit as Mickey Mouse rims As far as the handling is concerned, I know the GS 1000S with original suspension and the GSX 1100E, good straight-line running at high speeds above 200KM/h but a bit stiff in the corners. Now the 17" in the 1100 is much more agile in the corners, the worse straight line running which is inevitably the case at 17", the modern tires balance the current 1100 only starts from about 220KM / h and faster in straight-line running, something to oscillate, about comparable to earlier the original rims. I think with the 18" that will be in between. I know everything also depends on the chassis, forks etc. and its setting ... that's just my impression ...

Hi my config gsx 1100e Yoshi stage 1 cams , stock airbox K+N inside , V&H 4/1 with racing baffle gas 98 octane carbs from efe, 36mm , needle in middle , 120 jettings , screws 1+4 , two 1/2 2+3 , three all other jettings efe stock runs quiet well cheers Uli

Koni´s or YSS

Hi nope , this I would do not , buy a complet new set, ( both sides ) cost ony a few bucks an U have fun the next years https://www.cmsnl.com/suzuki-gsx750es-1983-d-1-2-4-6-15-16-17-18-21-22-24-25-26-27-30-34-39_model13699/partslist/FIG73.html#.YNnDFkxCRPY cheers

Hi I have taken No 1 = L No 2 = L No 3 = R No 4 = R " Ordnung muss sein " 注文は次の必要があります all with Inscription on the top, may I remember there was also a marking , that this rubbers are in right direction, but I am not sure.. Cheers Uli

Hello I am considering installing a Lifepo battery in my GSX 1100E, my controller is a NipponDenso 32800-45210 can I operate a lifepo abtterie with this controller, or does the controller bring too high voltage, i.e. over 14.4 volts ? someone has experience Cheers Uli

loosen airbox on the top from frame loosen aibox rubbers spray a bit WD40 or silicone spray between rubber an carb loosen carb on intake, also WD40 or silicone spray between loosen choke cable at carb losen throttle cable at handlebar loosen ths gas and vac hoses sit on bike pull back carbs with airbox and into airbox fron intakes pull carb left hand that carbintakes are between rubber intakes pull carb out from airbox take out from left side toghether with hoses and throttle cable To build makes more fun cheers