Jaydee

Thats the the ignition body. You won't find anything there because it can have any key and corresponding barrel fitted in it. Can you remove the ignition from the the top yoke? A good locksmith should be able to remove the barrel and match up the key tabs in the barrel and make a key.

Over here in Ireland, the council use a very fine grit sprinkled over loose road chippings and pothole repair. It gets pulled up by front tyre and gets everywhere. I make sure the rubber grommets are in good order on the rocker cover.

1127 is an oil cooled engine, wp is a water cooled engine. Upload some photos of bike and carbs you have so we can help you identify what you have.

Haynes manual says cylinders 1+4 are 112.5 and cylinders 2+3 are 110

Think it's mk.1 and 2 have different master cylinders.

Never seen anything like that in a set of carbs. Looks more like one of the key pins from an ignition barrel.

Bare frame with removable section, 25.5kg.

The slow jets go in the silver tubes and then you screw the jets to the carb body. The main jet sits in the brass ones before you screw them in to the emulsion tubes. Half a turn from lightly seated on the mixture screws.

This is the fork spring compressor I put together. Don't need to shim the 14mm nut taking off the fork top. Great having both hands free as the spring is compressed.

You need to make a tool to compress the tube spacer. I'll be rebuilding some similar forks and can take some pics, well better pics than the one below.

Can you see the preload adjuster in the fork top? When you opened the fork, you must have kept twisting the fork top till the preload adjuster screwed right out of the fork top!!! Now twist is back clockwise till it screws right back up the fork top. You have to compress the fork spacer tube to gain access to a 14mm damp rod nut so you can unbolt the fork top and remove the spring.

Slingshot 750 L,M and 1100 L,M and N forks are the only usd forks to have that small square tab (pictured above) for holding the speedo drive. That tab was beefed up to 3 times wider on 93 onwards usd forks that use a speedo drive.

Don't know which flatsides you're using. In theory a quick action throttle should strike down harder on the accelerator pump pistons (or diaphragm) giving a more powerful squirt of fuel from the accelerator pump nozzles. Might help it cope with the big air gulp that happens when you snatch open flatsides. (Only a guess.)

Domino do a throttle kit with removable reels. 3 reels in the kit, a stock one, a quick action one one a cam (like r6) one. Motion pro do a multi reel throttle too but have to agree, not impressed with the quality of their stuff. Everything they make looks like it came from China, crap anodising and soft metals.

Tried it with the stock filter but the K&N was miles better. Found my K was a lot more lively.

And upgrade the air filter too. If you're increasing the fuel, you have to increase the air proportionately. My 1127K, I have a stage 1 K&N single cone filter in my airbox, stage 1 DJ and 4-1 Akrapovic. Works for me.

Don't forget that the clip ons are below the yoke on 750's and above the yoke on 1100's. Because of this the 'mirror ears' profile of the headlight fairing is different between 750 and 1100 for turning clearance of the clips ons.

Think there was a sticky on the topic of suggested reading in 'Forced Induction' on the old site. There were 2 books, the one mentioned above. The other one was 'Maximum Boost, Designing, Testing and Installing Turbocharger Systems' by Corky Bell.

I'd guess having the e-clip on the last groove aint helping. Try putting the clip on 3rd from top and see what happens to your flat spot. It'll probably move your flat spot down the rev range where you can play around with your mixture settings (slightly richen(?))

Pretty much answered your own question. Yeah, last thing I needed was breaking a tap in the hole. Even at 7.5mm, there's a fair bit of pressure tapping the hole. I.m.o. tapping a 6.8mm hole would've broke the tap. I have Zeus handbook for that I normally use as my go to for drilling specs but winged it in this case.

The bolt that holds the sensor wheel is an M8. I used the M6 spear tip as the next size up was M8 which was too big. The trick is to keep switching between the M6 spear tip and a 7.5mm carbide drill. When the 7.5mm carbide stops producing swarf, go back to the M6 spear tip to bore further in. As the spear tip has a different profile, it leaves something for the 7.5mm carbide to bite in to. As for quality, it was cheap shite from Lydl. Glass is harder than case hardened steel so any M6 glass drill bit should do. Just go slow. Not the biggest problem if you break a spear tip down a hole as the flat piece can be fished out of a round hole easily.

I wasn't getting anywhere with drilling the shaft (for hours!) till I changed over to the spear tipped m6 glass drill. Then it was swarf city once I did.

The breather take offs are made of chocolate. The proper C spanner is probably made out of soft alloy to stop marking it. Last one I took out, I used a piece of an old leather belt wrapped around it and clamped on a vice grip over it. Managed to get out in perfect condition. Pretty much hit and miss not damaging it. Probably still available from Suzuki so not too much hassle replacing it you feck the old one up removing it.

Yes it will the job. Think 750M is 312mm and bandit is 315mm.

Any of the Chinese stuff looks good when new. It's after you use it the problems arise. Bolts up lovely and feels just like o.e.m. Then as the weeks go by, the cheap soft metal starts to wear and the levers get notchy and their pivot points wear away till they feel awful to use. Last chinky levers I took off a master cylinder, I had to cut off the pivot bolt as it has fused/seized to the lever. I'd be sticking with o.e.m. or take the hit and buy a main brand known for quality.