Jaydee

They were available to the Japanese domestic market. Sold as grey imports around Europe and rest of the World. There's also a bandit 250 that resembles the 400.

Ah, now it makes sense.

First thing I noticed. You are trying to sort out the fueling with no air box or filters fitted!!! All that tweeking you are doing will be gone out the window as soon as you fit them as now the air flow will now be restricted, thus changing air/fuel ratio. You mentioned that you turn up the air screw a quarter turn, it's actually a mixture screw. If you have unrestricted air flowing in to the carbs it make the ratio lean. You are richening up the mixture screw to compensate for this. Same story with your upjetting. Your main jet choice might suit the carbs running unrestricted, not with air box/filters. Start by putting back on the air box or filters, go back to base setting on the mixture screws and mains and then tackle your fueling.

Sounds like your fuel has gone to shit and drawn in water. Throwing fresh fuel in on top won't help because the water sits at the bottom of the tank as its heavier than the fuel. If you get any water in a carb it reacts with fuel to form petroleum jelly that'll clog a carb up. I'd start with removing the fuel tank and draining the carbs first. Use an auxiliary tank with fresh fuel to see if problem goes away. If it does, drain out the fuel tank (in a clear container to see any water at the bottom when fuel settles. If problem persists, carb overall. The pic below is what I drained out of a set of freshly rebuilt carbs after I put back on a fuel tank with 5 or 6 month old fuel in it that was topped up with a fresh gallon. Tap was missing knob so left permanently set on reserve so It drew in water sitting bottom of tank. (bottom layer in jug).

Did you add the top spacer to overall length of the tube? With that added it should equal the same length as the metal one.

My guess is previous fork builder misplaced a metal spacer tube (probably fork apart for a while waiting on seals and bushings) and then fashioned a new one out of a durable plastic. Can't see why the plastic replacement wouldn't be up to the job if its a good hard grade. Check it for any signs of stress or fracture to be on the safe side. Looks to have a bit of though gone in to it as he has a seat to support the tube. I'd almost bet theres a seat on the other end too to support the main spring.

As you have the fairings off, when you do start it up keep an eye on the weep hole (on water pump housing) on the top of the clutch cover for either oil or water/coolant. The mechanical seal behind the pump impeller can perish.

Nope, still the same since mk.1 and 2 use the same shock, swingarm, linkages, knuckle, rear wheel, ect. I've broke a few mk1 and 2 1200's.

There's a piece of wood under the side stand missing in photo no.2

Most of the time the oil pressure relief valve comes fitted in the new sump. If it missing, just swap over as the part number is the same for bandit 12, slabby and slingshot 11.

Do you have a shim washer for going under the E-clip so you can get half settings between notches? Helps with the fine tuning when you're almost there.

Depending on what exhaust you use and its clearance, slingshot 11, bandit 12 are front mounting. Just make sure you get the oil pick ups for whatever sump you do use. And possibly the oil strainer too as some are round and other are oval depending on sump profile.

Domino throttles are a premium product used by World class racers and teams. Very smooth function. Probably an incompatible throttle grip in your Domino housing.

Being second hand, chances are it's something cobbled together out of a mismatch of parts to turn a quick buck.

John Wilson Motorcycles via gaybay, seller i.d. jwmltd92.

When you say doesn't fit, do you mean it won't clamp tight to the bar or is it a case of something fowling bringing the two halves of the throttle housing together properly?

I'd play around with the mixture screws. Open then up a quarter turn and check if low down is better or worse. Nothing to lose.

I have a Domino throttle on my 1100L. It came with 3 throttle reels to choose from. One is stock, another is quick action and the last is cam profiled for a more aggressive low down response (like an R6 throttle). The kit came with the push pull cables ready to cut to size. You'll only need the pull cable with the 750M carbs. Motion-Pro also do a similar design throttle with a few reels to choose from and push pull cables to be made to size too.

As your axillary tank is gravity fed, it makes the vacuum pipe redundant so block it off. It's not needed as its vacuum is not pulling against the diaphragm in the tap thus letting the fuel free fall, ie gravity fed when diaphragm engaged. Anyone who ever changed a stock diaphragm tap for a Pingle gravity fed tap (very common practice on this site) will have either blocked the vacuum pipe or taken it off and replaced it with a bung to match the other 3 carbs in a rack of 4. Leaving the vac pipe open is a major air leak as mentioned.

Not 100% I have the right fella, but doesn't@gsxr884have something to do with bored out 750's and motorcycle parts retail? He might be able to help.

I'll find out the SU code on it tomorrow. Think you could be right guys about it being k7. Found a pic from a while ago of what came out and what went in.

You never mentioned it was an Ohlins TTX! You're out the window with options and settings. I have a gsxr 1000 K6 TTX in one of my slingshots.

Should be okay with the stoke as pretty close to original. It's going to be a case of trial and error testing the new shock on the road once you've played around with pre-load and sag. If too stiff you might sort it with a softer spring (if even needed).

Should be okay if the non-Suzuki is around the same weight (roughly). Fine tune for your own weight with changing the spring for whatever rate suits. Only concern I can think of would be that the new shorter shock has a stroke close to the original. Don't want the shock bottoming out under full compression.

They won't fit because Yams are all 100mm spacing.