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Go to your local fasteners supplier on an industrial estate and buy 5 to 10 of each different length M6 stainless cap head from 20 to 75 mm in 5mm increments. It'll probably work out cheaper than a 'kit' and you'll have a load left over for future use

This is the only one I can find for 750.

I’ve checked all the ones I have copies of and all have headlight relays, hopefully somebody can assist

You’ll find that most Busa owners who don’t fit hard touring tyres, either get very good at removing rear wheels or they are on first name terms with their local tyre fitter…. LOL. Im not a wealthy man, and I’m not some Rossi wanna-be track day hero, but I had to remove a pair of quite new Angel-GT2’s from one of my Busa’s, I fully understand touring tyres aren’t going to be super sticky but the GT2’s were truly awful. It’s a rare day I remove tyres with plenty of tread. I wouldn’t fit the bloody things if they were £1 a pair. 250kg / 160hp bikes can light up or chew up soft tyres pretty regularly if you like having a bit of fun.

All Busa’s came with an OEM 190/50 on a 6” rear. The B-King uses an exact Gen-2 wheel but came with a 200/50 from the factory. Its pretty common for both Busa and B-King owners to change to taller 190/55’s. I run 190/55 S22’s on a couple of mine. Some folk go for bigger / taller 200/55’s or 60’s. I’ve tried a couple of different 200 profiles but always gone back to 190/55’s. It’s not just the height and weight etc, I find the whole shape and profile of the 190/55 works well if you like corners. Theres a bit of difference in the shape and profile between s22 / 23’s, Rosso’s, M9RR’s etc but any of the better sports tyres work well even if do get eaten up quicker. I’d rather pay for tyres than punch holes in the scenery.

Thats a good point however

Eblag.

Mines an import so does not have the relays for the headlights so any 750 diagram with those omitted should do me

I was just thinking that looks very similar to the exhaust on my Moto martin, but the pipes arnt in the right place,?? perhaps the down pipes have been mixed up????

And yet it is still a bandit 12 sump that will do the job

Had to let the exhaust cool down first but yes looking like the o rings

Can anyone recommend a good quality engine case bolts kit for the GS1000? Stainless steel alan heads preferred.

Yes, this is what I'm thinking has happened but this is going to have to wait till end of summer before I start taking the engine out, didn't get to do much riding last year with house move etc so if it stops raining will be riding the other bikes before i start getting stuck in to the project

Except that is 4-2-1 !

And if it is a 1990 L the drain tubes are different to the 1200 bandit ones , so are needed as well

Need a Blandit 12 sump and matching pick up

I think so. I’ll have a look. And it’s got to be JDM?

Hardly sheared an oil drain o-ring on assembly? Happened to me. Didn't let go for about 2 weeks, then no stopping the leak from a top oil drain tube.

What exhaust is that you're using ?

Bandit 1200 is the usual go to for 4 into 1 headers

Fitted my exhaust today and it doesn't clear the sump on the 1127 engine - 1990 I think. Can anyone advise on which sump I need and from what model? Thanks

one common problem with bandits is theirs a thin black wire coming off the main thick black earth lead from the battery, it normally lives behind the right seat panel close to the battery, their is a spade connection and they tend to corrode over time, if it has a bad connection it can cause all kinds of problems and also when the neutral light goes out (putting it into gear) the engine will cut out.

Its a 24 yr old bike so some problems are to be expected! What is the mileage and is it verified? How much do you trust the seller not to screw you over? Has it got or do you know of any service history? A through service with a 'new to you' bike is never a bad idea, so at least you know, it 'should be' running right! P1 - is oil level correct and is oil viscosity correct? Not unknown to over fill an engine with thicker oil to cover up a mechanically noisy one or noisy gearbox / clutch! Thicker oil won't help easy starting. Starter motor could be getting lazy / worn brushes - fairly easy work to clean or check. P2 - Idle rpm? Is it around 11-1200 rpm? Too low and the gear engagement lurch is magnified. Are carbs working correctly - idle stalls could be symptomatic! P3 - Clutch issues are 'usually' non std. fibre plates, incorrect oil (usually a fully synthetic but not always) warped steel plates, notchy hub / basket splines, incorrect adjustment through ignorance or to cover up a fault.

Has anyone got an image/ copy of the wiring diagram for the JDM 750 Slabby they can share ?? cheers

Hi again! Thought I should start a new thread as the last one was solved and not really related to this one. I have just bought a 2000 gsf 600 that was fine on the ride home but has since developed some annoying problems that I cant figure out as a new owner. Am hoping some of the more experienced here might help set me right before I cave and take it to the garage. So problem 1 is the struggle to start it. Battery is fine I think as it's reading over 12v, and have tried with another known working one and both start up laboriously. It's charging when running and reads 14v or something. Problem 2 is the lurch when dropping it in to 1st when starting off a journey. This sometimes stalls the bike, sometimes not. I've heard a lurchy 1st was common at least. Problem 3 is that after taking it out for a short ride I dropped it back into 1st at a junction and it stalled again as soon as I pressed it. After that the bike refused to start and had to push it home. Some relevant info maybe: Prior to this I found the clutch lever was a bit tight and have since adjusted it a bit to have a few mm of free play. The problem was there with both clutch settings. I'm no expert but I'm comfortable with tools and a Haynes manual, but I'm very new to this bike which has been brilliant fun when it's not being a total pain in the arse.