Simple cheap upgrades, read on...

[CockneyRick]

So what can i do to the drag bike that's cheap enough before i start proper tweaking next year?  Looking at opinions on the stock GSX1100F engine that's in the slabby frame.

So far, Dyna 3ohm, Lock up, as far as what i did so far. Don't look like it's gonna be done any time soon, so wondering what i should spend my sick money on  

 

 

 

[Gixer1460]

If its not structural - put a holes / holes in it.......... if it has a hole / holes - make them bigger. If its a fastener not holding anything important - use alloy.

Use tank as a cover and fab up something that holds a couple of litres. Run total loss ign - save weight of alternator! Lose a disc and caliper off the front.

Use a 125 sport bike front end with single disc........................how commited are you?

Edited July 10, 2018 by Gixer1460

[CockneyRick]

Tis a basic loom, running 1 disc. Was thinking total loss, but that may be for later. It's more on the engine side without major surgery breaking out  

[Gammaboy]

10 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:

 If its a fastener not holding anything important - use a zip tie

Fixed! If it was good enough for Pops on Cooley's GS, it's good enough for a drag bike!

[CockneyRick]

Can i zippy my caliper on  

[Gixer1460]

28 minutes ago, CockneyRick said:

Can i zippy my caliper on  

Been done before................................but really not recommended LOL!

[Captain Chaos]

Just now, Gixer1460 said:

Been done before.......................

you need a...

[Crass]

You need a K&N sticker - adds at least 5bhp for pennies

[Captain Chaos]

working on a ditch pump today, found this in the intake manifold. Good for at least an extra 20 kW.

Then again on a Harley anything is an improvement.

[K.H.I]

Decent air filter set up, lighter swingarm.

[CockneyRick]

Running pods & a drag arm. 

I think without getting into the engine itself, looks like i've done as much as i can for now  

[K.H.I]

Those cheapy S&B pods are crap, and that homebrewed arm is probably twice the weight of a modern sportsbike arm with some bolt ons.

But hey.....if it sounds fast and looks fast, then it must be fast.

[Duckndive]

Do the basic's ...  make sure it rolls with the minimum resistance...brakes not binding and wheel bearings well greased "if your feeling flush fit ceramic bearings"

Almost every RWYB bike I,ve ever pushed up in the queue when the owner has gone AWOL would benefit from the simple basics to reduce rolling resistance

[zedhead]

What Clive said... in fact, you could fit wheel bearings without seals and spray them with WD40 (or similar lube) just before each run like what the 600 Supersport drag racers in Yankland used to do before ceramic bearings became readily available... and kick the front calipers after the burnout.

[dupersunc]

Ceramic bearings are a waste in motorcycle and car applications, no benefit what so ever, other, than a few grams in weight and pub bragging rights.

Flick the seals out and a squirt of WD40 is the way to go.

[CockneyRick]

Already fitted RS type seals in both wheels, so that's staying as is. Arm is a weight thing i agree, but it serves a purpose as a 1st build & RWYB.

 

As said, when funds allow, then i'll get into the engine, look at moving battery down & back, having tank cut, decide on arm, etc etc.

Just looking at simple basics, this is new territory here so don't be so rash @K.H.I  

[Gixer1460]

Re above - funnily enough - generally a lot of 'seasoned' drag racers will move battery to the nose not the back....... weight at the back is just going along for a free ride - if its got to be there, it should be doing some good!

[CockneyRick]

Hmm, now there's a thought!