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GSx1100 Dresda Solitaire (I may have had a Clivecident).


imago

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7 minutes ago, Duckndive said:

that's very spendy IMO 

All you need is one or two people looking for a Bakker, Harris etc and they go for silly money. On the other hand, if those one or two people aren't looking they seem to either hang about for ages or sell for half what they started at.

I've noticed that there doesn't seem to be as much money between 'boxes of bits' project bikes and ready to ride or show bikes as you'd expect. 

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I got to pick up some race engine parts for this yesterday. A bunch of stuff from a race engine builder who didn't need them as air cooled engines just aren't used for endurance anymore. With these parts and the spec of the rest of the engine we're on for a comfortable and reliable 150 - 160 hp at the wheel. So my aim/hope for a 43 year old nromally aspirated air cooled bike at the same weight and power within a gnat's cock of matching a K1 GSXR1000 is on.

He's going to set it up on the dyno for me when it's built. This is on for being a very special bike. :tu

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1 hour ago, clivegto said:

I know those wheels look cool but I would be a bit dubious about using them. 

Well the way I ride anyway. 

Out of curiosity, why would you be dubious? They're no more likely to failure than used Astralites, Marchesini, Dymags etc. Less so if those haven't been crack tested as these were.

The way you ride doesn't have much to do with it unless you're blasting down unpaved roads.

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10 hours ago, clivegto said:

Don't look that strong to me. Wouldn't use old mag Marchesini or Dymag either, Astralight I would, they were still making new ones until a couple of years ago. 

 

Old or new, magnesium or alloy, unless they've been crack tested you're always taking a chance with second hand wheels.

In terms of strength, then you have to consider the shape. A circle is very strong unless it's subject to a point impact on the circumference. Coming down from a wheelie or catching air is OK, clatter into a pot hole or kerb and it's fucked. The rims themselves are a similar thickness to Paul's spoked wheels for example, fitted to a turbo bike which is used enthusiastically on occasion.

The design is pretty clever too. The six bolts that hold the centres to the rims aren't taking any shear force. They pass through the rib on the rim into a plate and the torque applied to them is transferred into clamping force between the centre and the plate which holds the rim rib.

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One good thing about thin rims is that you can't hide any abuse/damage as unless they go back into the press they're formed on any deformities will be visible. So unlike that bodged arm a visual on the rims and crack test the centres gives you the best chance of all being well.

There are no guarantees obviously but we can only do what we can, and lets face it you're rolling the dice every time you go out. So it's about minimising rather than eliminating risk. (y)

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10 minutes ago, clivegto said:

Ever watched that vid of Robert Dunlops back wheel collapsing at the TT. Some people say not to use carbon fibre wheels on the road but I do as do others on this very site :D

Yeah, it was dramatic to say the least. The problem with carbon is the same as magnesium really, if they get a sharp knock they crack but it's not always visible. I wouldn't have a problem using carbon wheels as long as I had them from new, I don't think I'd fancy a used set for the same reason I wouldn't want a used helmet.

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