Kat clutch gurus

[TomTom]

As I don't have the left arm of Arnie I'm trying to sort the clutch on my 1100 Kat. It appears standard parts are best. The fibre plates are within tolerance but the tangs are below size. The metal plates are below tolerance. The clutch is apparently welded but tge outer basket has some wear marks from the tangs,  how tight is the limit on these, is it ok to dress it up a bit with a file without going to over the top? Also if you hold the basket and try and rock it towards you there is some play in it. Is this normal? How much is acceptable.  Lastly, approximately how much will new genuine plates and springs cost me. Thanks in advance. 

Also the aluminium spacers on the bolts are quite marked by the springs. Is it ok to get replacement ones made of steel or are they soft for a reason. Cheers

Edited November 19, 2015 by TomTom

[Swiss Toni]

I'd stick with the std. Suzuki plates if I was you. Really can't get better! Expensive...but worth it! I'd also keep the spacers alloy! Filing the slots in the drum, (within reason) is ok. Stack your plain plates in a pile to check for warpage.

[Pedda]

Clutch action will be easier the more you have the cable lubed properly in the first place. If the clutch is slipping, you won't avoid new plates. Axial paly on the basket should be there. If there's too much your clutch will let you know by a massive rattle at tickover which will stop as soon as you pull the clutch. In that case you will have to shave the inner race of the basket bearing.

For genuine plates try Robinsons, mention your OSS membership and get a discount.

As to the alu spacers: marks by the springs are normal - if you feel it's a bit too much get alu replacement, I would not install steel spacers. Because of wear, wheight and probably noise.

Which part of the clutch is welded? Got a pic?

[Screwriverracing]

And if you do get new plates don't forget to soak them in oil before fitting.

Cheers SRR

[markfoggy]

Phase One have stolen this set-up off of Team Force, who've done a lot of messing about trying to find the correct length  for it all to work nicely.

Think we settled on a 15mm offset on the block and 15mm added to the arm.

Result is full control over a slightly longer lever throw, but much reduced weight on the pull.

[TomTom]

Thanks for all the info guys.  I have seen these extended clutch arms and wondered if they were any good.  I don't have photos sorry as clutch basket etc still in motor plus I can't figure out how to resize my pics on my phone to post them. Lol. The biggest problem was trying to engage neutral once engine is hot, an old favourite I think!

Cable was brand new and lubed, routing was fine etc. Will price up new bits and pass the list to Santa. Cheers guys.

[Gammaboy]

I fixed mine this way:

[1168turbo]

Phase One have stolen this set-up off of Team Force, who've done a lot of messing about trying to find the correct length  for it all to work nicely.

Think we settled on a 15mm offset on the block and 15mm added to the arm.

Result is full control over a slightly longer lever throw, but much reduced weight on the pull.

did you save much weight shaving off engine numbers?

[Gammaboy]

I only just noticed the Staubli fitting on the oil cap. Nice!

 

[TomTom]

I only just noticed the lack of engine numbers,lol.

[Captain Chaos]

The biggest problem was trying to engage neutral once engine is hot, an old favourite I think!

do it before coming to a stop. The gears and neutral engage MUCH easier when the rear wheel is turning.

[markfoggy]

Those bloody engine numbers, they look really dodgy, but are a necessary evil. Consequence of wrecking 4 sets of cases in the last 12 months. 

We're allowed to run earlier engines, just not EFE's. In the end we had to press EFE cases into service as we just couldn't find any more of the earlier ones. Without the engine numbers the EFE heritage is a lot harder to track down. If we experienced a challenge on our legality, they'd have to do a complete engine strip and then they'd have to be able to spot the difference in the case at the output shaft wall. Somebody would also have to put up 1000 Euros on the gamble that we had an EFE in the bike, we might not .

[Captain Chaos]

 

We're allowed to run earlier engines, just not EFE's. In the end we had to press EFE cases into service as we just couldn't find any more of the earlier ones. Without the engine numbers the EFE heritage is a lot harder to track down. If we experienced a challenge on our legality, they'd have to do a complete engine strip and then they'd have to be able to spot the difference in the case at the output shaft wall. Somebody would also have to put up 1000 Euros on the gamble that we had an EFE in the bike, we might not .

you can expect a PM soon from the OSS department of creative blackmailing.

[markfoggy]

We've got a Nigerian Moderator?

Was trying to make it abundantly clear to everybody, there are no engines or other parts sourced or used by the team that aren't legitimately acquired. 

The fact that we'll play fast and loose with any set of regulations that are pushed under our nose, is, however, a facet of all kinds of competition. When a teams been in existence for 30yr without ever being caught gaining an advantage, I'd say, 'Give it your best shot'.

[Guest YoshiJohnny]

I used that set up 33 years ago on my ex proddy GS1000

[vizman]

big gurls blouses clutch mod co

[KATANAMANGLER]

[markfoggy]

This is drifting off clutches again, sorry.

Number of sets of cases going for blasting in the next week is, 2, both E's, not EFE's. New bikes acquired for engine, awaiting collection from Sunderland, to donate another set of cases, is 1.

Required is probably 2 more bikes/engines over the next 3 months. Mind boggling really. Current planning for next season is around 24/32 Hrs of racing plus the usual testing (3/5 days in Spain - March) and practice Hrs. Total complete engine requirement is 6 across the new season, number of new reinforced clutch back plate rebuilds is probably 6/8. 

We currently have 3 complete engines that don't display any  issues. All by some weird co-incidence seem to have 4Hrs racing on them. This means that they can go again with a new clutch. Then they'll be due a refresh/tolerance/ health check, assuming that the cases don't split.

[TomTom]

I know you guys all swear by only genuine parts for the clutch but do you rate Barnett clutches at all. Heard they were good also and work out cheaper than Suzuki stuff. Thoughts please.  Thanks. 

[Gixer1460]

I had Barnett plates in my 1100K - was overbored and ran nitrous and the clutch was mint, upgraded to turbo and it went super grabby - not nice. Swapped back to std fibres and all good again - oh ...... was using a lock-up with both.

[TomTom]

Thanks for that. Not worth the risk . I'll go for oem stuff.

[TomTom]

Can anyone tell me what length the 13mm diameter spacers should be that the 6 clutch bolts go into as mine are a bit fubard. Also anyway of telling whether springs are standard or not. They are still within length tolerance but maybe heavy duty, can you tell them apart.  Thanks.