philwright Posted December 21, 2020 Posted December 21, 2020 When I engage 1st gear on a cold engine the bike stalls as if the sidestand is down , but I have recently bypassed the switch and checked that 1st gear will engage with the stand down and it does. So I'm guessing it could be sticking clutch plates, the bike engages gear with no problem when warmed....advice appreciated please. Quote
philwright Posted December 21, 2020 Author Posted December 21, 2020 2 hours ago, clivegto said: Warm it up longer Serious advice only please...lol. Quote
Wagola Posted December 21, 2020 Posted December 21, 2020 3 hours ago, philwright said: When I engage 1st gear on a cold engine the bike stalls as if the sidestand is down , but I have recently bypassed the switch and checked that 1st gear will engage with the stand down and it does. So I'm guessing it could be sticking clutch plates, the bike engages gear with no problem when warmed....advice appreciated please. Had similar with sticking clutch plates. But you should know this as the bike will lurch forward as the rear wheel tries to turn ? If this is the case I've had succes with raising the revs, holding front brake on or putting front wheel against a wall , engaging first and drop the clutch ! Scary but its worked for me. Quote
Ted M Posted December 21, 2020 Posted December 21, 2020 Hold the front brake on and blip the throttle as you engage gear. Has it done it since changing your oil? Quote
TonyGee Posted December 21, 2020 Posted December 21, 2020 4 hours ago, philwright said: When I engage 1st gear on a cold engine the bike stalls as if the sidestand is down , but I have recently bypassed the switch and checked that 1st gear will engage with the stand down and it does. So I'm guessing it could be sticking clutch plates, the bike engages gear with no problem when warmed....advice appreciated please. are you running a cable clutch or hydraulic ? Quote
philwright Posted December 21, 2020 Author Posted December 21, 2020 2 hours ago, Ted M said: Hold the front brake on and blip the throttle as you engage gear. Has it done it since changing your oil? It's a hydraulic clutch and yes the oil was changed at a service just before I bought the bike,i have contacted the previous owner and he had no clutch issues, I'm wondering if the service put the wrong oil in it ,eg. fully synthetic !! Quote
TonyGee Posted December 21, 2020 Posted December 21, 2020 1 minute ago, philwright said: It's a hydraulic clutch and yes the oil was changed at a service just before I bought the bike,i have contacted the previous owner and he had no clutch issues, I'm wondering if the service put the wrong oil in it ,eg. fully synthetic !! might be worth bleeding the clutch fluid again just in case their is a bit of air in the system. Quote
Gixer1460 Posted December 21, 2020 Posted December 21, 2020 1 hour ago, philwright said: . fully synthetic !! Caused the death of many clutches! Older clutches just don't seem to get on with the stuff! Quote
philwright Posted December 21, 2020 Author Posted December 21, 2020 2 minutes ago, Gixer1460 said: Caused the death of many clutches! Older clutches just don't seem to get on with the stuff! Yeah I know...I've ordered some 10w40 to be sure. Quote
philwright Posted December 22, 2020 Author Posted December 22, 2020 (edited) If it has been filled with the wrong type of oil and i drain it and refill with proper 10w40 should that do the trick or will i need strip it and clean the plates? Edited December 22, 2020 by philwright typo Quote
Gixer1460 Posted December 22, 2020 Posted December 22, 2020 Er ! I trust you had 10w/40 in there in the first place? And it was fully synth? Sometimes is the oils only been in there a few miles, draining and filling with cheap oil and a bit of use gets the plates back - sometimes not. A M8 used 'Mobil One; in his Bindit - changed from a nice clutch to a slippy bastard - oil change no good, needed new fibres! Quote
philwright Posted December 22, 2020 Author Posted December 22, 2020 38 minutes ago, Gixer1460 said: Er ! I trust you had 10w/40 in there in the first place? And it was fully synth? Sometimes is the oils only been in there a few miles, draining and filling with cheap oil and a bit of use gets the plates back - sometimes not. A M8 used 'Mobil One; in his Bindit - changed from a nice clutch to a slippy bastard - oil change no good, needed new fibres! The thing is i dont know what oil is in the bike, dealer I bought it off is now closed for xmas so cant ask. I always used Mobil 10w40 semi in my old 750j with no problems. And that's what I've just bought this time, I'll give it a go and see if it makes a difference. Quote
colinworth79 Posted December 22, 2020 Posted December 22, 2020 (edited) I would take the clutch cover off and check the clutch pressure plate Is lifting correctly . If it's been standing for a while take the plates out and make sure there not stuck together . Worth taking the clutch slave cylinder off and cleaning as there not in the best place and tend to get covered in crap. I have had the friction plates break up so not worth the risk . The wrong oil may cause it to slip but not drag . Edited December 22, 2020 by colinworth79 2 Quote
TonyGee Posted December 22, 2020 Posted December 22, 2020 i had a similar problem with the 750 et i bought recently, what i do is with the engine running and front brake on, raise the rev's slightly and start to release the clutch till it starts to bite then pull it in again, do it a few times and see if it helps. worked on the ET and is spot on now, and other bikes ive had. don't over do it though. Quote
Ivan Posted December 23, 2020 Posted December 23, 2020 Mayby changing oil with fresh 10w40 to start with, changing clutch plates afterwards wont spoil much oil when your bike is on side stand. Quote
philwright Posted January 3, 2021 Author Posted January 3, 2021 Changed the oil/filter for the proper stuff and its still doing it, have drawn the conclusion that the plates are sticking cos the oil and ambient temperature are so low at the moment, once the bike is thoroughly warmed there is no problem, so things should improve when the weather gets a bit warmer....so apologies to @clivegtowho i thought was taking the piss by saying warm it up for longer.... 1 Quote
Toddy64 Posted March 2, 2021 Posted March 2, 2021 I had similar issues with my 1100K that had been laid up for many years. Cutting out when engaging first, and still trying to creep when warmed up. I’d also replaced the perished 30yr old line with braided and it was a bugger to bleed up. Eventually out of desperation and a possible cheap fix I stripped, and cleaned the Slave Cylinder replacing the seal and spring. It now works perfectly, though that may have been pure luck and the dormant clutch plates starting to work, who knows, but certainly worth a try Quote
johnr Posted March 2, 2021 Posted March 2, 2021 dont some of these bikes have a clutch switch also? Quote
philwright Posted March 3, 2021 Author Posted March 3, 2021 I've had success by holding the clutch lever in for 30 seconds with the motor running after a cold start, it seems to do the trick, clutch operates as normal when warmed up...i can live with it. Went for a decent 35 mile ride last saturday in beautiful weather, after that i can forgive the bike almost anything...this bike is a beast! Quote
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