Toddy64

Dohhh!! Sorry guys, it's a GSXR 1100K 89 1127

Just noticed a slight oil leak from the drive shaft oil seal (behind the front sprocket) and wondered if the crank cases need to be split to replace, or if anyone can advise on best way to remove and replace without splitting? tia

Not sure if this may help, but my 89 1100 K deffo runs a 14mm piston as standard (its cast into the master cylinder) my push rod measures 101.5mm last time i checked. Had similar issues to yourself trying to tidy up the Renthal bars with a modern looking unit, Cheap Chinese Brembo copy a non starter, got close with a 14mm VTR1000 unit, even tried 100mm and 104mm rods to no avail. So ended going back to standard MC and typically its working fine (other than clutch slip) but that's another story Hope this helps

Yes the 4-2-1 downpipes are identical to the Yoshi Cyclone on my 89 1127, as for the can? not sure

Thanks TonyGee, by springs do you mean the two dished diaphragm type ones? No.16 in the parts diagram?

Hi Chaps, The Clutch on my old girl (GSXR1127K 89) has started to slip and i'm assuming that due to age it may be the Drive (friction/fibre) plates are on the way out, it still drive fine but slips at higher speed and revs, when overtaking a car on an A road for example Having had a quick look at the prices was horrified to see the oe ones at £17 each x10, compared to an EBC set at half that price, and the APE Track King ones being circa £100 a set. So i guess the question is are the cheaper ones useless? Surely not? I wont be Racing or doing track days, and the bike has circa 35000 miles on but is 32 years old, and was stood for 10 years until about 3 years ago. As I obviously don't want to be doing the job again in a couple of years, any advice and or tips on what to look out for when doing the job are much appreciated, tia

Assuming it’s the same colour as a 89K, try RAL7021

I had similar issues with my 1100K that had been laid up for many years. Cutting out when engaging first, and still trying to creep when warmed up. I’d also replaced the perished 30yr old line with braided and it was a bugger to bleed up. Eventually out of desperation and a possible cheap fix I stripped, and cleaned the Slave Cylinder replacing the seal and spring. It now works perfectly, though that may have been pure luck and the dormant clutch plates starting to work, who knows, but certainly worth a try

Ah thanks for looking Dezza, no worries.

Haha Dezza, honestly I’m not that fussy, it looks good enough for me for now. May even get round to doing it properly one day if I ever get the engine out. By the way, did you ever fish out that RGV solo seat you kept tripping over, I may be able to make something of it for the cost of postage

Nah, honestly Tony, it’s absolutely spot on, I was quite surprised, a nice Satin finish as it says on the tin (sounds like a bloody Ronseal ad) iirc I think I found the colour code on an American gsxr type site, they of course had the luxury of the correct PJ1 type stuff. Loving the Halfords Volvo grey, may give that a try too

I found the correct engine colour RAL7021 Black Grey from Huddersfield Autopaint, and although this is not actually engine paint, it certainly gave my 1100K a welcome refresh. Had I actually removed the engine I would have probably searched for the proper stuff, but this has lasted a season well, and as long as I don’t spill anymore petrol or clutch fluid on it, I expect it to last a few more years. Defo worth a try as I think I paid about £15 for a single can

I’ve been following similar threads as I’m fitting a 750K1 arm to an 1100K and having a mare getting things in line. Thankfully I’m sticking with my Slingshot wheels for now, however @MeanBean49has plenty of helpful info on similar regarding machining 5-10mm from your sprocket carrier etc to move it inboard, dependant on front sprocket offset.(as the 750K rear sprocket is indeed 10mm further from wheel centre than a Slingshot) If you’re happy to run 520, an XR650 front sprocket gives you 4mm offset for a sensible price

TonyGee, that is actually what I ended up doing, 520 non o ring chain, XR650 01-07 front sprocket with 5mm more offset than an 1100k one, and 5mm spacers behind rear sprocket. Not ridden yet but all seems to line up and more importantly clears the swingarm (bearing in mind a K1 wheel has the sprocket a further 10mm from centre than a Slingshot) so fingers crossed

Yes please Dezza, no massive hurry as I need to get this bleeding swingarm sorted, hoping to be there once the 520 chain arrives. Was the seat a reasonably easy fit?

Hi Dezza, do you still have the RGV seat? As I’m looking to try something a little smaller than the standard slingshot solo seat

Mines an 1127 89K, so should be ok, ordered today off chainandsprocketsuk 14 front and 1100k 48 rear, free postage and 10% voucher code, result! Will post result once fitted. Can you recommend a good 520 chain, as there seems a lot of cheaper stuff about?

Just measured the standard 530 front sprocket and it is 8.5 mm thick with no offset, so my thoughts are that the XR650 one (at 13.6mm) may just give me the 5mm clearance I think I require for chain clearance, will obviously space out the rear sprocket to match. I was considering 520 conversion anyway?

It’s part number JTF1307 for XR650X and ZX6R 98-02 and looks to be an extra 4mm offset, could just work on my 1100k with K1 swingarm conversion as chain rubs arm centre brace, if I convert to 520?

Other than using a K1 wheel etc, my only thoughts were 520 conversion and a 2mm washer behind front sprocket and similar behind the rear sprocket using five 2mm washers, but sounds a bit of a bodge? Was hoping someone may have already done it?

Just got my K1 arm fitted into my 1100k and the suspension working, however as I’m using slingshot wheel, and with everything lined up correctly, the 530 chain rubs against the swingarm top centre brace? Any idea how to fettle this, as if I use a 5mm offset front sprocket, the rear would be out of line?

Fair call Buzuki, and direct replacement with new is always the best solution. Thankfully I’ve obviously been ‘lucky’ for the last 20yrs not to ride off with my side stand down, naked or without a crash helmet ;o)

If I recall, as it was about 20yrs ago, so I could be wrong, I removed mine on my K, chased the two wires to the connector block and joined them together?

Things have moved on a little since my last post when I reported the back end to be way too firm. I managed a short ride out and as expected it was a nightmare☠️ Having followed a lot of other info on this subject, I decided to contact DanM54 and get one of his adaptor plates ordered along with a K1 knuckle Once arrived and bolted up the rear shock actually moves and with a little fine tuning I’m confident it will be fine, the dogbones even look nearer to the perpendicular too, (I think a longer shock would help further with this) the ones I’m using in the pics are 125mm and increase the ride height about 25mm, so I’m probably going for either an adjustable set or 130-135mm should put the height back to standard The only remaining headache is the chain rubs against the edge of the vertical centre brace of the swingarm!! Now as I’m running the standard 1100k rear wheel, I took a lot of time spacing it correctly for wheel and sprocket alignment, and I’m aware the 750k1 sprocket is a further 10mm from wheel centre So I was wondering if any of you can advise me as to the best way around the chain clearance issue, 520 chain and sprockets? space both sprockets out a few mm? grind the weld off the swingarm? (ideally I wish to keep the slingshot wheels) or fit a K1 wheel, I’m told you need to machine 5mm off the rear carrier and offset the front sprocket by 5mm to maintain alignment