skunkrider2 Posted October 22, 2015 Posted October 22, 2015 (edited) I bought a 1994 GSXR 750 WR, its been stood for over 10 year with original 21000 mile (engine has been ran so ok on this side) Im trying to make into streetfighter over the winter with the goal of dropping in the 1127 motor. Problem I've got is the main subframe bolts to main frame (allen head) will not free off, the heads are rounded away so will not take the 6mm allen socket. Anybody got any ideas of how to remove (before i try to drill out) Got same trouble with battery box to subframe bolts, inaccessible to get drill in, and can't remove subframe because of above?????? Going to be old school streetfighter, with a 916 style seat unit ect, ect. And finally turbo'd (but thats a long way off)Any help would be greatly appreciated, Edited October 24, 2015 by skunkrider2 Quote
skunkrider2 Posted October 23, 2015 Author Posted October 23, 2015 Have you tried hammering torx bit in?I have Ziggy, flat sides (inside) have rounded off. Out of the 4 bolts, only one has come free, the other three are stuck fast (I'm guessing they have never been undone since put in by suzuki 21 year ago!) I know steel will weld to aluminium after time, and I guess 21 year is time enough . Quote
Captain Chaos Posted October 23, 2015 Posted October 23, 2015 weld some other bolts on the stuck ones, the heat will free them and then they can be loosened. Quote
skunkrider2 Posted October 23, 2015 Author Posted October 23, 2015 weld some other bolts on the stuck ones, the heat will free them and then they can be loosened.no welding gear. Quote
snoorder Posted October 23, 2015 Posted October 23, 2015 These steel bolts are usually stuck in the aluminium frame. Just some heat and then your torx back in it might work. Otherwise drilling them out is the way to go. Be sure to get the correct fine thread pitch when buying new bolts. I beieve they are M10x1,25.Cheers. Quote
skunkrider2 Posted October 23, 2015 Author Posted October 23, 2015 These steel bolts are usually stuck in the aluminium frame. Just some heat and then your torx back in it might work. Otherwise drilling them out is the way to go. Be sure to get the correct fine thread pitch when buying new bolts. I beieve they are M10x1,25.Cheers.Thank you snorter, I thought as much. Hate drilling!!!! Oh well if thats what has to be done the so be it. The subframe has to come off as it needs raising quite a bit to take 916 seat unit. Quote
irish Posted October 24, 2015 Posted October 24, 2015 hello mate i would forget putting a 1127 or bandit motor in the wr frame as it will not fit you have to modify the head stock for this to work the best way out is to fit the water cooled 1074 engine anyway hope this helps you out Quote
badgerkdd Posted October 24, 2015 Posted October 24, 2015 If you can get a dremmell with a small fibre disc on you could cut a slot for a flat screwdriver bit then take an impact driver to it? I did that to the stuck screws in the battery box area and managed to get most free.I've just had a similar problem with cap head bolts on the lower crankcase and had to drill it out eventually. Sometimes its just easier and quicker, I spent several hours doing all the other stuff, welding etc. but in the end came back to drilling it out, took 5 mins and was easy to get the bolt remains out afterwards. Quote
markfoggy Posted October 24, 2015 Posted October 24, 2015 hello mate i would forget putting a 1127 or bandit motor in the wr frame as it will not fit you have to modify the head stock for this to work the best way out is to fit the water cooled 1074 engine anyway hope this helps you outInterested here, why would you have to modify the headstock to get another motor in there. GSxr W motor is a little bigger than most if anything. Quote
vizman Posted October 24, 2015 Posted October 24, 2015 (edited) are they [the engines] not a bit shorter from front to rear the waterboilers ? Edited October 24, 2015 by vizman Quote
markfoggy Posted October 24, 2015 Posted October 24, 2015 I'm thinking our new friend Irish ( welcome along by the way) is suggesting injecting an SRad or K? series motor that would need a cylinder head/block mount. That would need headstock fabrication. Busa FTMFW, BTW, innit! Quote
vizman Posted October 24, 2015 Posted October 24, 2015 (edited) I thought he was suggesting putting the last of the cradle style 11 water boilers in the 750, which requires little work Edited October 24, 2015 by vizman Quote
vizman Posted October 24, 2015 Posted October 24, 2015 are they [the engines] not a bit shorter from front to rear the waterboilers ?in comparison to the 11 oilbiolers is what I meant Quote
markfoggy Posted October 24, 2015 Posted October 24, 2015 Who knows, first post, we'll find out shirtley. Quote
metallicaman Posted October 24, 2015 Posted October 24, 2015 He does say 1127 motor which would suggest the oil boiler not watery motor, have seen it done and can't remember the headstock needing any adjustment, the front downtubes on the cradle do need modifying to get the exhaust headers past as the oil and water engines have different cylinder spacing... Quote
vizman Posted October 24, 2015 Posted October 24, 2015 I thought he was suggesting putting the last of the cradle style 11 water boilers in the 750, which requires little workso I thought the dude [irish] was suggesting putting the water boiler 11 motor [not a srad/k] into the 750 water boiler frame as you need to modify the frame to fit an oilbioler motor in, due to the issues matallicaman highlighted. Quote
markfoggy Posted October 24, 2015 Posted October 24, 2015 Can't link, but that explains George 1100 's post in Hayabusa's comments in another post about exhaust clearance on 1127 into 750 W framesI think that I'll stop worrying about my build until I discover that I've got an epic fail on my hands due to an impulse buy of a Sanctuary Exhaust System that doesn't fit.I'll blame the beer. Quote
Captain Chaos Posted October 24, 2015 Posted October 24, 2015 an impulse buy of a Sanctuary Exhaust System that doesn't fit.your post count is over 50. 2 Quote
irish Posted October 24, 2015 Posted October 24, 2015 hello the reason i am saying this i am going to tell you something that has happend i own a genuine gsxr 750 wr sp which i bought i bits i have all the paper work to prove this and the engine the 40tmr carbs and the frame and log book the reason for the bike to be in bits is that the owner of this bike before i bought it tried to fit a 1127 motor in it and cut off rear engine hanger logs off the 1127 engine still hits the frame rails he sloughterd a genuine british registerd sp which i am to believe is one of only 6 to imported and only 3 to have been registred for the road correct me if i am wrong as i am not sure but what i can tell you is martec did two of these conversions one was a turbo bike which keith flint owned and i saw the work done on the bike and the other is owned by guy martin any way as i said this is the only reason that i know anyway can anybody tell me how post a picture of my gsx750et turbo that i am having built by warpspeed thank hope i did not bore you irish 1 Quote
markfoggy Posted October 24, 2015 Posted October 24, 2015 Wow, you're going to be fun.You'll need to load your photos to somewhere like photobucket or instagram. Then you can copy and paste them here.Grab hold of a local 10yr old, who understand these things and make it happen. We'd love to see.Hey, I'm not taking the piss about 10 yr olds, It's how I got on the internet 15 yrs ago and how I learn how to do things on my mobile phone now! 2 Quote
irish Posted October 24, 2015 Posted October 24, 2015 thats me f----d my grandson in wales any way i will try Quote
skunkrider2 Posted October 24, 2015 Author Posted October 24, 2015 hello mate i would forget putting a 1127 or bandit motor in the wr frame as it will not fit you have to modify the head stock for this to work the best way out is to fit the water cooled 1074 engine anyway hope this helps you outCheers for that, saves me a lot of headaches in the future. Quote
skunkrider2 Posted October 24, 2015 Author Posted October 24, 2015 Sorry i should have made it clearer in the beginning, my plan would have been the 1127 oil cooled engine in the 750 water cooled frame. I was led to believe it was a 'straightish' swap. If not ill keep the 750 motor (as its only got 21000 on the clock.) and start another build with the 1127 motor.I'm open to suggestions on which way to go with this build. Quote
skunkrider2 Posted October 24, 2015 Author Posted October 24, 2015 If you can get a dremmell with a small fibre disc on you could cut a slot for a flat screwdriver bit then take an impact driver to it? I did that to the stuck screws in the battery box area and managed to get most free.I've just had a similar problem with cap head bolts on the lower crankcase and had to drill it out eventually. Sometimes its just easier and quicker, I spent several hours doing all the other stuff, welding etc. but in the end came back to drilling it out, took 5 mins and was easy to get the bolt remains out afterwards.Went out today and purchased said dremel. (£75 later) Saying that i always wanted one as was going to try and polish brake callipers, so money well spent. I'll give that a go with disc and impact driver, before drilling. 1 Quote
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