Jump to content

skunkrider2

Members
  • Posts

    126
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by skunkrider2

  1. Cheers Madb, its worth looking at as 1100 oil cooled motors are a fortune. Ill decide over next few month exactly which way im going to go. Might finish and sell, then start again????
  2. Im finishing the build of my gsxr 750 wr streeetfighter, and am after a definitive answer to what oil cooled 1100 motor will fit into 750 wr frame? I was led to believe the 1100 M motor (but can't find one) would fit but would like to know for definite before I start looking for a 1100 motor. (don't want to buy a motor that won't fit) Has anybody actually done an engine swap in the water-cooled frame? (don't particularly want the water-cooled 1100 motor, would much prefer an oiled cooled lump) Also if somebody has done this swap what other parts will be needed (carbs form the 1100? ect, ect) Any ideas would be appreciated
  3. And no im not having sex with a animal of the sea before anyone starts. That was a couple of year ago, and I've done my time, and regret it. (well that what I told judge)
  4. Job completed, small seal in freezer overnight, next warmed up petcock body and in it slipped (oh thats starting to sound wrong ) Job done. F**k knows if it works as tank is away for paint.
  5. I know what your saying but you cannot push it through as the bottom of the filter gauze blocks any way of pushing from rear. It looks like a push fit from front but you cannot do opposite to remove. Ill take some pictures tomorrow to try and explain a bit better.
  6. I ordered a petcock rebuild kit for my 94 750 WR. All straightforward to fit apart from 1 piece which I can't work out how it comes out of petcock. When whole thing is disassembled, your left with main body which has fuel filter gauze attached, there is a round rubber Gromit attached to what looks like a bearing (its not a bearing) bout the size of a 1p piece, rubber on one side. I can't work out how it comes out of body, as you cannot push from rear? I know it must come out as there is a replacement in the rebuild kit. Just wondering if anybody done one of these before?
  7. Theres a lot of headers off 750 srad's quite cheap on evil bay, but don't know whether these are a straight fit? The idea im after is a can under engine exiting under swinging arm pivot (as in previous post) but my headers are 2 pipe and was trying not to cut link pipe up.
  8. Has anybody fitted headers off a different model to a 1994 GSXR750 w. Im wanting to fit a under engine can but the standard headers are 4 into 2 into 1. Im wondering if any 4 into 1 headers are a straight swap?
  9. Ive got the same wire, and unconnected same as yours. My bike is in the build phase and cannot find what it plugs into. looks like a indicator (but I know it aint) being a bullet connector?
  10. Neutral, Dunno if this is any help (this is from a WR)
  11. Ive just done this, no bushings are needed. only turn the dog bones to gain clearance.
  12. Going back to proper old school look with a Ducati seat look (jacked high)
  13. I ve done exactly the same (hence I wasn't sure myself) I kept all the old brackets though just incase. Thats what took so long as I had to find steering damper and bracket in a box of bits. Pleased I could help, although its not the answer you hoped for.
  14. On having a second look at brackets taken off my bike, its possible the other fixing point is underneath the bracket that holds clocks and headlights. I can photo if needed. Richy
  15. Actually your right (I took my damper off a couple of year ago and never replaced it) it’s reverse of what I said bolt that goes through steering damper body goes under bottom fork clamp (see photo below) and I can’t work out second one
  16. Front end (bolt 9) screws up to underside of bottom yoke and rear (bolt 5) screws up to under headstock as far as I can remember?
  17. Well after spending 10 year or so standing, i blocked the holes with blue tac (was all i had to hand) put the carbs back on, charged battery and hit the button. She fired!!! Ran for the amount of fuel in the bowls. So new diaphragm cover ordered (didn't want to risk drilling) and for £24.00 wasn't worth it. (melted starter relay fuse into holder in process, so ordered one of those too) So just a quick thanks to Captain Chaos for the invaluable web site!!! Second hand carb tops are like rocking horse shit?? £30.00 form USA & £15.00 postage for a used one??? Ehhhh no thanks.
  18. Been really enjoying your write up. keep it going please.
  19. Thats great, If i cannot find a used one this is the next option.
  20. Thanks for that, are these supposed to be sealed? i.e. would it cause problems starting the way they are? (Still trying to find out if this was the non starting issue when i bought the bike last year)
  21. After some help please. Took the carbs off bike tonight (stood for months after buying it as a non runner) On the top of the carbs there are 4 plastic diaphragm covers. Each one is held on by 2 allen screws. Each one also has a rubber cap covering a short stalk. (I'm guessing this is where you would plug balancing gauges???) Any way one of the 'stalks' is snapped off and a second has no rubber. My question is, are these supposed to be sealed? (to keep vacuum) When i bought the bike the last owner said it would not start possibly due to sucking air in?? Im hoping I've found the cause in this snapped off pipe. Second question, if this is the cause, where would i find a diaphragm cover?? Ive tried the usual, Eblag ect, but dealers seem only to want the sell the whole bank of 4 carbs. Ill post some pics when i get a chance. Thanks in advance.
  22. Anybody know which shocks bolt straight into the above, its 1994 model
×
×
  • Create New...