CockneyRick Posted April 2, 2020 Posted April 2, 2020 I know OEM is the real option, but £60+ is a fookin lot! So anyone got decent recco's, maybe even a (teflon) lined one, cos as all GS owners know, Popeye arm is a must Quote
jensvonbustenskjold Posted April 2, 2020 Posted April 2, 2020 You can go for a Chinese hydraulic clutch kit. Will set you back $20 + some fluid Quote
CockneyRick Posted April 2, 2020 Author Posted April 2, 2020 26 minutes ago, Duckndive said: Use an ET or EFE one £20 - £25 cheaper Think i'll rob the one off me Efe & see if it makes it any lighter, no point shelling out with zero improvement Quote
CockneyRick Posted April 2, 2020 Author Posted April 2, 2020 31 minutes ago, jensvonbustenskjold said: You can go for a Chinese hydraulic clutch kit. Will set you back $20 + some fluid Never really liked them tbh Quote
HUM Posted April 2, 2020 Posted April 2, 2020 see here https://www.suzuki-motorrad-ersatzteile.de/d2p/d2p?ALIAS=25213&TIM=eaeb&BRAND=SUZUKI&MACHINE=614&NAVGROUP=S_gs0&PNO=068.P2TSUZUKI181325 € 42,- see here https://alpha-sports.com/suzuki_parts.htm USD Price 39.75 see here https://www.megazip.net/zapchasti-dlya-motocyklov/suzuki/gs1000-2271/gs1000-13959/gs1000hc-c-n-c-722995/handlebar-front-fender-11497882#/il-270274899-1116466-1116466 USD 36,- see here https://www.cmsnl.com/suzuki-gs1000-1979-n-general-export-e01_model13512/partslist/FIG-43.html#.XoYacXLgpPY € 36,- take care cheers HUM Quote
Duckndive Posted April 2, 2020 Posted April 2, 2020 12 minutes ago, CockneyRick said: Think i'll rob the one off me Efe & see if it makes it any lighter, no point shelling out with zero improvement Cable run and clutch lever arrangement makes a huge difference the original lever assembly of EFE is good start 2 Quote
Dezza Posted April 2, 2020 Posted April 2, 2020 Won't Venhill make a quality replica cable for less than 60? I have an unwanted quality (Frando) hydraulic slave and master cylinder conversion but it's going to cost more than an OEM cable if you want it Quote
CockneyRick Posted April 2, 2020 Author Posted April 2, 2020 I have a good one, but i've tried everything to make it lighter with no success. probably has less than 500 miles on it! Quote
Dezza Posted April 2, 2020 Posted April 2, 2020 The hydraulic conversion made Jack Shit difference to the force needed to operate my clutch, hence the reason I removed it: it's just a load of unecessary additional complexity. What did make the difference was realising I had 6 heavy duty clutch springs and then replacing 3 of these with stock springs so check your springs out. Quote
Duckndive Posted April 2, 2020 Posted April 2, 2020 26 minutes ago, Dezza said: The hydraulic conversion made Jack Shit difference to the force needed to operate my clutch, hence the reason I removed it: it's just a load of unecessary additional complexity. What did make the difference was realising I had 6 heavy duty clutch springs and then replacing 3 of these with stock springs so check your springs out. Dazza makes a very good point there ref the springs ..most of these bikes have been messed with and the odd part swapped for good or bad. on the last turbo efe and my 1398 N/A one i ran / run a lock up with 3 stock springs and 3 inner valve springs its a 2 finger pull ....not ideal for every one but works for me on the oil boiler coil spring with "B6 cable conversion" i found out it had the wrong springs in "to strong" again right stock springs and it was better lighter.. Quote
CockneyRick Posted April 2, 2020 Author Posted April 2, 2020 I did buy some EBC ones, but it was so bad as is, i sold em on. Just assumed they were std. They aint green anyway! Quote
Dezza Posted April 2, 2020 Posted April 2, 2020 45 minutes ago, CockneyRick said: I did buy some EBC ones, but it was so bad as is, i sold em on. Just assumed they were std. They aint green anyway! My HD springs are the same colour as the OEM ones. You have to compare them side-by-side to tell the difference. HD are longer and the wire is slightly thicker. I actually bought some 'OEM' springs 2nd hand and they turned out to be HD. As D & D says, over the years people fuck about changing them and we don't know half the time what's in there. 1 Quote
gs7_11 Posted April 3, 2020 Posted April 3, 2020 I'm no Popeye, but I do not think the GS1000 clutch is especially heavy. The throttle on the slide cards on the other hand......... Quote
Ade Posted April 3, 2020 Posted April 3, 2020 You can buy cable on a roll by the metre. I use nylon lined outer and make my own cables. I have 1.5mm for throttles, 2mm for clutch and 2.5mm for brake cable. I use solderless nipples and solder on ones. Even the solderless ones I solder them on once set in the right place. I even make moulds and cast nipples on sometimes. I made a solder cup with a stainless cooking measure and some ally. I got a Venhill bird cage tool at Netley Marsh one year which are expensive but work perfect. 3 Quote
mkoppeser Posted April 3, 2020 Posted April 3, 2020 The OEM cables are too long since the stock bars are a higher rise than what most people use. I broke several cables until I figured this out back when I had my first GS1000 after installing my Barnett clutch kit. Quote
gs7_11 Posted April 3, 2020 Posted April 3, 2020 Not true. There are 2 different cable lengths. Use the right one and it's only just long enough. Quote
Swiss Toni Posted April 5, 2020 Posted April 5, 2020 @AdeYou ever thought of posting a 'cable making' tutorial up? Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.