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Gsxr 1100 M reduce effect Question


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Posted

Hello

I've just get myself an other M 1100 bike in mint condition but documents say 62.5Kw and the bike is with 36mm carbs

So except the carbs what else should change to full power?

Any expiarance from anybody will be wellcome !

regards

Martin

58372755_359839088207281_1916886381431357440_n.jpg

Posted (edited)

That equals about 84hp ! ! !  That's about 40 - 50hp down on the 'full fat' versions!

36mm carbs will happily support 145hp so unless they have the restricted lift tops and severe down jetting - its not there. Exhausts can be restricted - washers or other baffles to make back pressure. Ignition mapping could have been played with by the factory - rev limiter / range restricted / ignition timing. Really soft cams is an option - especially with that amount of loss.  Where in the world are you - may give a clue?

Edited by Gixer1460
Posted (edited)

That explains it - Swiss models of just about every type of bike are heavily restricted in various ways and have been for decades. Maybe something in carb tops preventing the slides from opening fully and also restrictors in the exhaust? Nice colour scheme by the way.

 

Maybe also the carb rubbers have 'webs' causing partial blockages as did early 1000 EXUPS and 1100Ws, which can be recified with careful use of a modelling knife.

Edited by Dezza
  • Like 1
Posted

I have seen different ways of restricted engines:

 

- A limit stop on the throttle assembly :

As in making it a quarter turn gas tube and limit in the handle,

or a extra stop in the cables on tge carbs side.

- An extra stop molded in the carb tops limiting the opening of the slides.

- carb rubbers with a smaller hole in it

- Exhaust gaskets with a smaller hole it

- Camshafts with lower lift 

- Ecu with a different curve / redline in.

 

Hard to tell from here but these are rhe most "normal" ways of lowering a engines power

Posted

Whay you guys think should i keep it like it is, or go for the power?

The bike is not 85hp for sure it pulls not so bad /but it is away form my other M model with 132 rwhp/ Currently im buildin my new garage and my dyno is not avaliable next 2 months , so i will not be able to check what we have.

The bike has PAIR system / 1st time i see on oiler/

I bought it because looks great really good. And i'm not surre what to do with it !

Indeed i have never tried M ot N with stock exhaust so not sure how to explain how fast it is, i push it for one short strait up to 250ish and it still pulling, the bike is feeling verry plush with those 36mm absolute linear acceleration. It goes from 2k to 10k on 5th really smooth.

Regards

Martin

Posted
27 minutes ago, davecara said:

PAIR system? Hasn’t got a blandit engine and carbs has it?

That would explain an awful lot! So possibly although the papers say one thing, a previous owner has fitted an alternative engine that looks identical to the original - and if it pulls as you say this is a likely scenario! If you can lift the cam cover to see the cam lobes and cam chain type will give a definitive answer. Also see what the capacity marking on the back of the barrels will give it away - 1127 / 1157? Grey or Black engine colour?

Posted

The cams should have 41C  on them, these are full power ones, anything else won't be. Euro 1127 M/N   engines numbers will start with V711 ……. silencers should have 41C0 on them.

I think Californian models had pair system on them, as Capt'n says.

The previous owner could've partly derestricted the bike, I don't think an 84hp engine could pull more than 230kph, even on original clocks.

40mm cv carbs need an airbox to work well and give a linear power curve, smaller carbs will help lower range pick-up. The 40mm carbs work really well on a big bore, flowed engine - but still with the airbox - I tried all sorts to make dual filters work and the power curve was still very lumpy - fitted the airbox, altered the jetting and it makes better power and far more torque everywhere. The 36mm carbs works well without an airbox.

  • Like 1
Posted

in sweden there was rings in the exhaust where it was mated to the head. it was just to take them out and re jet it an you where at full power. worth a try, and easy to get to and take out. im not sure it will even start after that, but i would go for 37.5 slow jets and 135 main jets and give it a go

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