Jump to content

Starting a 750F project..help required! Questions Galore!


Recommended Posts

Hello All,

Thought I would say Hi, I,ve built a few bikes and I know how a site like this can help smooth the Lows , and share the Hi's of a project with info on tech/parts.

This "bitsa" is a "B" plate 750F,  which i bought on a whim, because I had always wanted one when I was a spotty 16 year old down at Box Hill in Surrey in 85 on my Fizzy.

It ran, it had , i told it had the correct F fairings, albeit damaged and it was cheap...ish.

IMG_20190304_173435.thumb.jpg.c11b2fa1ae87d9bdc2a974cac61ae87b.jpg 

 

It was missing a few parts, its been powder coated, its a import.....its looking worse by the second as it emerges from storage shed..to go into toy box for real evaluation...what have I bought!

IMG_20190304_175457.thumb.jpg.c1643146d77342bb324a1df26a5e634a.jpg

 

 

Initially I wanted to make a blue/white homage to the bikes I remembered in 85/86, restorations cost to much to do to the letter, i,m not a rivet counter, but the great powder coating is now putting paid to that idea..unless I can get it off and not damage the frame in the process.

Brakes/forks/clutch cyl rebuild/incorrect broken fairings/missing disc fasteners/ oil cooler damaged/seat covers/air box/rear fender( mudguard to me..)air box rubbers, rear light, rear shock, tyres, front fender, fork brace, horn, exhaust doesn't fit...........all in the the first 5 min.

Act in haste repent at leisure.

IMG_20190304_180408.jpg

 

So where to go from here, I hate Eblag, although it does find unobtainium at times, So i,m looking for recomendations.

Where to find good pattern fairing panels.

Rear shock swap.

Quality  used spares and overhaul locations.

 Advice :)

I've built Suzuki before , my last one being from a box of bits as well, but that was oil, air and water cooled, and was a learning curve!!

 

IMG_20170917_144554.jpg

Edited by Mercwagonman
learning.....
  • Like 1
Link to comment

Welcome, plenty info if you have a look through projects section. Are you sure it's an F looks more like a G to me, it has jap clocks so could be a mistake when it was imported/registered. My F  (import) is on a C plate an d my G is on a B plate

Edited by E T
Link to comment

Bloody hell !, if its not a "F" then I,m not going to get to excited.

Took some more pics today, its had the old chopped up rear end as per 1985 hack saw standard...i,m missing quite a few bits on the ass end!.

I,ll check the numbers tomorrow...perhaps I should not have been so trusting, but it runs and , well resembles a bike...IMG_20190306_163303.thumb.jpg.1a4a69fae380fe89c7d01cae5591d64d.jpg

 The problem with reassembling a bike you didn't disassemble and have never spannered on is.....wtf is missing!!

 

IMG_20190306_154117.thumb.jpg.46c393973df0bab51fbfd36b9c36fc75.jpg

No brace and is this a "F"??

IMG_20190306_162603.thumb.jpg.57ff77bc1a7883e7cbdd3c2a7e6c164d.jpg

No idea what is missing in here , but there is a load of fresh air!!

IMG_20190306_163041.thumb.jpg.de3ca4856a5aced31bdcaabe51c6fd95.jpg

Eblag purchase....hope it fits!

Previous life... so is it a F ??   :/IMG_20190306_160603.thumb.jpg.8aaee5dd389bd2184d6cff3fd52be5a7.jpg

Link to comment

I'm no expert by the way, could well be an F that's had parts fitted from later models ie the carbs & fairing . F has shorter swing arm 23 inch if I remember correctly but they could well have been changed too, best check numbers to be sure. 

Link to comment
On 3/7/2019 at 1:01 AM, Dezza said:

The carbs look like the 34mm CVs from an 1100 slabside, much in demand from those with turbo bikes. They look in really good shape compared with the rest of the bike suggesting they have been put on relatively recently.

The bike was a street fighter, with missing parts, and someone before me has started to get bits to return it to stock.

I seem to be missing lots of bits of the rear plastics...will be looking for those!

Are the 34mm CVs a good conversion on the 750??

Link to comment

Welcome to the group. I'm rebuilding an F at the moment. Your front mud guard is not an F model fender. I've used an R1 rear shock to replace my original, many on here have documented that change. As mentioned the carbs are from a different model. As my bike is in bits happy to pass on any info and or pictures that you may want. Suspect PM maybe the best method. Good luck with your project.

Link to comment

Its been a while but I managed to get an airbox into my 750slabby without removing the engine. I think I pulled the carbs and it was like a krypton factor puzzle working out which way to twist turn it getting it in. Some other bits may need pulling to get clearance but I definitely didn't take the engine out. 

Link to comment
On 3/7/2019 at 1:01 AM, Dezza said:

The carbs look like the 34mm CVs from an 1100 slabside, much in demand from those with turbo bikes. They look in really good shape compared with the rest of the bike suggesting they have been put on relatively recently.

I did this conversion with feedback from an ex TT racer supported by Dynojet. CVs from an 1100 G, Dynojet Stage 1, original airbox and filters. Had a hole drilled in the slides by a rolling road, seemed to help - its super smooth all round

Edited by wsn03
Link to comment
On 3/8/2019 at 6:13 PM, Mercwagonman said:

The bike was a street fighter, with missing parts, and someone before me has started to get bits to return it to stock.

I seem to be missing lots of bits of the rear plastics...will be looking for those!

Are the 34mm CVs a good conversion on the 750??

Hello, welcome.

Yes, the 34mm are a good conversion - I didn't get on with the original flat sides at all. A guy I used to know raced a 750F at the TT - the 1100 conversion I mention in my previous post gave him the rideability he needed for the TT course. It transformed my bike.

The other must have mod is to bin the original coils, they are crap and give up making it run like a pig. I fitted Dyna coils in the late 90s, but I've read on here the newer Dyna coils are garbage - if you can get the big old green ones they are good. Otherwise people seem to be going for the stick conversions.

I have an original 750F import.

The differences between F & G as far as I can tell:

1. Belly Pan (and the original is actually fibreglass while the rest of the fairing is plastic

2. Middle fairing panels (the way the air vents are laid out)

3. Battery box - appears to have an extra mounting on the G below the box I think it is

4. Original silencer is pepperpot, G is slats

5. Swinging arm - shorter, creates minor wobble so most were binned for longer ones

6. On import red and black bikes the 2 part seat is in red, the Gs were black and I think a single seat

Might be some electrical differences but electrics are something I'm reasonably clueless on, so can't be sure or comment.

From the look of yours you won't have any of the above to check, so check the frame numbers

My bike is all original aside from the exhaust, carbs and K&N fitted inside the original airbox. I've restored it twice 22 years, so have lots of build photos (that I am planning to put on here at some point) if you need anything.

BTW I had the original shock restored by a firm in the NW, can't remember their name. Cost some 400 quid but its like new, and I wanted the original look

Edited by wsn03
Link to comment
19 hours ago, Macduff said:

Its been a while but I managed to get an airbox into my 750slabby without removing the engine. I think I pulled the carbs and it was like a krypton factor puzzle working out which way to twist turn it getting it in. Some other bits may need pulling to get clearance but I definitely didn't take the engine out. 

?!?! How did you manage that?? Bet that was a bit of a job

Link to comment

Just found this on Wrongopedia - so the single seat is G onwards. If you have a 2 part seat you've most likely got an F:

GSX-R750 (F) 1985[edit]

The original model featured a lightweight aluminum alloy frame, flatslide carbs, twin discs with 4-pot calipers, and 460-millimetre (18 in) tyres both front and rear. To save weight, the designers specified an air-and-oil-cooled engine, rather than a water-cooled engine. The seat has separate front and rear sections but from 1986 onwards all models have a one-piece seat.[3]

GSX-R750 (G) 1986[edit]

The 1986 model received a 25 mm longer swing arm to improve the handling. Apart from a modified belly pan and upgraded headlamps there is very little difference between the 1985 and 1986 models. 1986 is the first year the model was introduced to the US.

Link to comment
4 hours ago, wsn03 said:

?!?! How did you manage that?? Bet that was a bit of a job

If I knew it was such a fabled process to fit I would have taken pictures and notes :) , &  I wasn't aware of it being a PITA task until after  I did it and may have struck lucky with the correct twist on getting it in. As it was I remember it trying to refit the carbs afterwards with age hardened airbox rubbers was a far harder more frustrating job. 

Link to comment
7 hours ago, Macduff said:

If I knew it was such a fabled process to fit I would have taken pictures and notes :) , &  I wasn't aware of it being a PITA task until after  I did it and may have struck lucky with the correct twist on getting it in. As it was I remember it trying to refit the carbs afterwards with age hardened airbox rubbers was a far harder more frustrating job. 

Your legend will alas be swept away by the tide of history without proof, tragic. Your brilliance with the airbox (Sir I salute you) is however outclassed by your utter stupidity fortrying to fit carbs with age hardened rubbers...though I do confess to being this stupid myself (repeatedly) once upon a time....before I stopped being tight.

Even with soft new rubber I am fascinated by the airbox rubbers.  On every joyous occasion I refit them I often think of the great man who must have designed that configuration.  My life's dream is actually to meet him, to get into his mind, to try to understand him...and then to kick him hard and squarely in the bollox. Take that for the fucking misery I've suffered you utter fucking wanker!!!

I need counselling when I think too hard about it 

 

 

Edited by wsn03
  • Like 3
Link to comment
  • 2 years later...

Hmm.. slabby tanks... If theres one rule for slabby tanks it's that Japan fitted every type to every model at some point or for different markets. The black tank in the picture is generally considered an 1100 tank, except when it isn't. The more square side profile tank is generally considered a 750 tank, except when it isn't. The narrower tap mounting holes are generally for the non-vacuum on off prime tap used by slide carbs. The tank with the big round fitting underneath has a fuel level sender, generally Japanese market, except when it's not, bit of a theme here.

Link to comment

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...