Mercwagonman Posted March 6, 2019 Posted March 6, 2019 (edited) Hello All, Thought I would say Hi, I,ve built a few bikes and I know how a site like this can help smooth the Lows , and share the Hi's of a project with info on tech/parts. This "bitsa" is a "B" plate 750F, which i bought on a whim, because I had always wanted one when I was a spotty 16 year old down at Box Hill in Surrey in 85 on my Fizzy. It ran, it had , i told it had the correct F fairings, albeit damaged and it was cheap...ish. It was missing a few parts, its been powder coated, its a import.....its looking worse by the second as it emerges from storage shed..to go into toy box for real evaluation...what have I bought! Initially I wanted to make a blue/white homage to the bikes I remembered in 85/86, restorations cost to much to do to the letter, i,m not a rivet counter, but the great powder coating is now putting paid to that idea..unless I can get it off and not damage the frame in the process. Brakes/forks/clutch cyl rebuild/incorrect broken fairings/missing disc fasteners/ oil cooler damaged/seat covers/air box/rear fender( mudguard to me..)air box rubbers, rear light, rear shock, tyres, front fender, fork brace, horn, exhaust doesn't fit...........all in the the first 5 min. Act in haste repent at leisure. So where to go from here, I hate Eblag, although it does find unobtainium at times, So i,m looking for recomendations. Where to find good pattern fairing panels. Rear shock swap. Quality used spares and overhaul locations. Advice I've built Suzuki before , my last one being from a box of bits as well, but that was oil, air and water cooled, and was a learning curve!! Edited March 6, 2019 by Mercwagonman learning..... 1 Quote
Mercwagonman Posted March 6, 2019 Author Posted March 6, 2019 So more questions, brake upgrades, fork upgrades, using stock head-stock and yokes, and anything else that will be achievable on a reasonable budget! Let me know! Thanks Quote
banoffee Posted March 6, 2019 Posted March 6, 2019 Welcome. I go to box hill on some sunny Sundays so come and say hello if you see me on this: 1 Quote
Swiss Toni Posted March 6, 2019 Posted March 6, 2019 Welcome to OSS! Unfortunately, you've picked the first model for your restoration! Spares are quite hard to find. Fairings from G & H models will fit though. Have a word with Jason 'Fibreman' on here, in the Traders section. He does good stuff for Slabbies. Quote
Captain Chaos Posted March 6, 2019 Posted March 6, 2019 an RE5.... don't see too many of those around Welcome to group therapy Quote
Fazz711 Posted March 6, 2019 Posted March 6, 2019 Hi bud. Welcome to OSS. You never saw many RE5s back when they were new let alone now. Quote
wraith Posted March 6, 2019 Posted March 6, 2019 Welcome to OSS Be well worth the time to rebuild the 750f Quote
E T Posted March 6, 2019 Posted March 6, 2019 (edited) Welcome, plenty info if you have a look through projects section. Are you sure it's an F looks more like a G to me, it has jap clocks so could be a mistake when it was imported/registered. My F (import) is on a C plate an d my G is on a B plate Edited March 6, 2019 by E T Quote
Mercwagonman Posted March 6, 2019 Author Posted March 6, 2019 Bloody hell !, if its not a "F" then I,m not going to get to excited. Took some more pics today, its had the old chopped up rear end as per 1985 hack saw standard...i,m missing quite a few bits on the ass end!. I,ll check the numbers tomorrow...perhaps I should not have been so trusting, but it runs and , well resembles a bike... The problem with reassembling a bike you didn't disassemble and have never spannered on is.....wtf is missing!! No brace and is this a "F"?? No idea what is missing in here , but there is a load of fresh air!! Eblag purchase....hope it fits! Previous life... so is it a F ?? :/ Quote
E T Posted March 6, 2019 Posted March 6, 2019 I'm no expert by the way, could well be an F that's had parts fitted from later models ie the carbs & fairing . F has shorter swing arm 23 inch if I remember correctly but they could well have been changed too, best check numbers to be sure. Quote
Dezza Posted March 7, 2019 Posted March 7, 2019 The carbs look like the 34mm CVs from an 1100 slabside, much in demand from those with turbo bikes. They look in really good shape compared with the rest of the bike suggesting they have been put on relatively recently. Quote
Mercwagonman Posted March 8, 2019 Author Posted March 8, 2019 On 3/7/2019 at 1:01 AM, Dezza said: The carbs look like the 34mm CVs from an 1100 slabside, much in demand from those with turbo bikes. They look in really good shape compared with the rest of the bike suggesting they have been put on relatively recently. The bike was a street fighter, with missing parts, and someone before me has started to get bits to return it to stock. I seem to be missing lots of bits of the rear plastics...will be looking for those! Are the 34mm CVs a good conversion on the 750?? Quote
billd Posted March 10, 2019 Posted March 10, 2019 Welcome to the group. I'm rebuilding an F at the moment. Your front mud guard is not an F model fender. I've used an R1 rear shock to replace my original, many on here have documented that change. As mentioned the carbs are from a different model. As my bike is in bits happy to pass on any info and or pictures that you may want. Suspect PM maybe the best method. Good luck with your project. Quote
billd Posted March 10, 2019 Posted March 10, 2019 Airbox looks right for an F. You have to remove the engine to fit it to the frame and then refit engine...……………..a real pain!! Quote
Macduff Posted March 10, 2019 Posted March 10, 2019 Its been a while but I managed to get an airbox into my 750slabby without removing the engine. I think I pulled the carbs and it was like a krypton factor puzzle working out which way to twist turn it getting it in. Some other bits may need pulling to get clearance but I definitely didn't take the engine out. Quote
wsn03 Posted March 11, 2019 Posted March 11, 2019 (edited) On 3/7/2019 at 1:01 AM, Dezza said: The carbs look like the 34mm CVs from an 1100 slabside, much in demand from those with turbo bikes. They look in really good shape compared with the rest of the bike suggesting they have been put on relatively recently. I did this conversion with feedback from an ex TT racer supported by Dynojet. CVs from an 1100 G, Dynojet Stage 1, original airbox and filters. Had a hole drilled in the slides by a rolling road, seemed to help - its super smooth all round Edited March 11, 2019 by wsn03 Quote
wsn03 Posted March 11, 2019 Posted March 11, 2019 (edited) On 3/8/2019 at 6:13 PM, Mercwagonman said: The bike was a street fighter, with missing parts, and someone before me has started to get bits to return it to stock. I seem to be missing lots of bits of the rear plastics...will be looking for those! Are the 34mm CVs a good conversion on the 750?? Hello, welcome. Yes, the 34mm are a good conversion - I didn't get on with the original flat sides at all. A guy I used to know raced a 750F at the TT - the 1100 conversion I mention in my previous post gave him the rideability he needed for the TT course. It transformed my bike. The other must have mod is to bin the original coils, they are crap and give up making it run like a pig. I fitted Dyna coils in the late 90s, but I've read on here the newer Dyna coils are garbage - if you can get the big old green ones they are good. Otherwise people seem to be going for the stick conversions. I have an original 750F import. The differences between F & G as far as I can tell: 1. Belly Pan (and the original is actually fibreglass while the rest of the fairing is plastic 2. Middle fairing panels (the way the air vents are laid out) 3. Battery box - appears to have an extra mounting on the G below the box I think it is 4. Original silencer is pepperpot, G is slats 5. Swinging arm - shorter, creates minor wobble so most were binned for longer ones 6. On import red and black bikes the 2 part seat is in red, the Gs were black and I think a single seat Might be some electrical differences but electrics are something I'm reasonably clueless on, so can't be sure or comment. From the look of yours you won't have any of the above to check, so check the frame numbers My bike is all original aside from the exhaust, carbs and K&N fitted inside the original airbox. I've restored it twice 22 years, so have lots of build photos (that I am planning to put on here at some point) if you need anything. BTW I had the original shock restored by a firm in the NW, can't remember their name. Cost some 400 quid but its like new, and I wanted the original look Edited March 11, 2019 by wsn03 Quote
wsn03 Posted March 11, 2019 Posted March 11, 2019 19 hours ago, Macduff said: Its been a while but I managed to get an airbox into my 750slabby without removing the engine. I think I pulled the carbs and it was like a krypton factor puzzle working out which way to twist turn it getting it in. Some other bits may need pulling to get clearance but I definitely didn't take the engine out. ?!?! How did you manage that?? Bet that was a bit of a job Quote
wsn03 Posted March 11, 2019 Posted March 11, 2019 Just found this on Wrongopedia - so the single seat is G onwards. If you have a 2 part seat you've most likely got an F: GSX-R750 (F) 1985[edit] The original model featured a lightweight aluminum alloy frame, flatslide carbs, twin discs with 4-pot calipers, and 460-millimetre (18 in) tyres both front and rear. To save weight, the designers specified an air-and-oil-cooled engine, rather than a water-cooled engine. The seat has separate front and rear sections but from 1986 onwards all models have a one-piece seat.[3] GSX-R750 (G) 1986[edit] The 1986 model received a 25 mm longer swing arm to improve the handling. Apart from a modified belly pan and upgraded headlamps there is very little difference between the 1985 and 1986 models. 1986 is the first year the model was introduced to the US. Quote
Macduff Posted March 11, 2019 Posted March 11, 2019 4 hours ago, wsn03 said: ?!?! How did you manage that?? Bet that was a bit of a job If I knew it was such a fabled process to fit I would have taken pictures and notes , & I wasn't aware of it being a PITA task until after I did it and may have struck lucky with the correct twist on getting it in. As it was I remember it trying to refit the carbs afterwards with age hardened airbox rubbers was a far harder more frustrating job. Quote
wsn03 Posted March 11, 2019 Posted March 11, 2019 (edited) 7 hours ago, Macduff said: If I knew it was such a fabled process to fit I would have taken pictures and notes , & I wasn't aware of it being a PITA task until after I did it and may have struck lucky with the correct twist on getting it in. As it was I remember it trying to refit the carbs afterwards with age hardened airbox rubbers was a far harder more frustrating job. Your legend will alas be swept away by the tide of history without proof, tragic. Your brilliance with the airbox (Sir I salute you) is however outclassed by your utter stupidity fortrying to fit carbs with age hardened rubbers...though I do confess to being this stupid myself (repeatedly) once upon a time....before I stopped being tight. Even with soft new rubber I am fascinated by the airbox rubbers. On every joyous occasion I refit them I often think of the great man who must have designed that configuration. My life's dream is actually to meet him, to get into his mind, to try to understand him...and then to kick him hard and squarely in the bollox. Take that for the fucking misery I've suffered you utter fucking wanker!!! I need counselling when I think too hard about it Edited March 11, 2019 by wsn03 3 Quote
Mercwagonman Posted May 26, 2021 Author Posted May 26, 2021 Gratings... No greetings one and all. Finished building my Norton dominator 99, so now to the slabby. I have 2 fuel tanks. One has a pet cock pitch of 35mm the other 45mm. Which is the correct one for a F? Quote
Mercwagonman Posted May 26, 2021 Author Posted May 26, 2021 I have 2 tanks... Guessing the one with no pet cock is a F? What's the other off? Quote
Slabby11 Posted May 26, 2021 Posted May 26, 2021 Hmm.. slabby tanks... If theres one rule for slabby tanks it's that Japan fitted every type to every model at some point or for different markets. The black tank in the picture is generally considered an 1100 tank, except when it isn't. The more square side profile tank is generally considered a 750 tank, except when it isn't. The narrower tap mounting holes are generally for the non-vacuum on off prime tap used by slide carbs. The tank with the big round fitting underneath has a fuel level sender, generally Japanese market, except when it's not, bit of a theme here. Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.