Solcambs

For those who care about the Kat - https://bikes.suzuki.co.uk/news/early-crash-ends-endurance-legends-race-prematurely-for-team-classic-suzuki/

I wandered down to Cambridge Motorcycles, and appreciate that Spike took time out from a busy day to help turn down the Bandit Speedo drive. As usual he kept patient as I said, "should be a quick 5 minute job" and realised that nothing is actually ever that simple. The Bandit drive takes (just) a 25mm bore, but it's a weird shape to hold in the lathe .... as I should never be let anywhere near a lathe - it always ends in misery - Spike (resident machining genius at Cambridge Motorcycles) needed to make up a collet to hold the bandit speedo drive in the lathe - but relatively simple case of finding some appropriate tubing, adjusting the inner diameter to take the drive and cutting three slots into it. Then placing the collet in the lathe with the chuck biting on the collet and the speedo drive held by the collet. Given the amount of powdering of the inner tube of the speedo drive we reckon it was cast! Anyhow ... 6 passes of the lathe and we have a 25mm bore on the speedo drive. I've test fitted the drive to the TL1000/bandit front end and Spike got the inside diameter spot on. All I need is to adjust the wider part of the TL1000 spindle by a few mm and the speedo drive will replace the spacer I am using currently. So I'll wander down again in the near future and get the spindle integral spacer machined back a little to make space. Job will be a gud'un!

Start stripping and rebuilding ... stop posting to the internet Gutted to hear it died at Donington - but great that you have a spare for Pendine!

You can make RGV engines produce more - low 70's relatively easily with the right porting job, exhausts, and ignition. But they get rather prone to breakdown and need regular top end inspections. Alternatively stick an RG570 engine in there and you can have 125hp with the right exhausts and ignition.

Seller should get it checked and sorted .. then the price tag would be pretty damned high I would suspect!

Ahhh ... I get it. I've done a lot of looking. The drives are slightly different across manufactruers on how they pick up the rotation of the wheel. Looks like I built the front wheel up back to front ... the bandit wheel can rotate either way ... so it's a simple case of swopping round. the drive will be on the left siode of the bike then, and rotate the correct way :o) So - I should be able to get the centre machined out on the bandit one to 25mm.

I shall have to have a look out for it ... bought the mag yesterday but haven't had chance to have a flick through it yet!

Scott and Wolf leathers IIRC had good reps back in the day when I raced. If I go to the track, I want the best cost/performance for the inevitable slide and ragdoll. If you race, it's not if, its when! The requirements at the track are different really - at the track (vs the road), there's less chance of impact and puncture injury - but there is a much higher abrasive related risk, so the leather thickness abrasion resistance (and leather type, 3 layer stitching, etc) is very important. I know a chap who has been campaigning to change the leathers quality measures for years (with some success) ... his pet peeve is Alpinestar's use of the regs to get away (in his opinion) blue murder. Their interpretation of the regs allow them to get away with leathers that aren't reallt fit for purpose. The quality, type, and thickness of the leather and the way they bond and stitch their leathers is an source of open criticism IIRC. Anecdotally, the are known to abrade poorly, and often burst seams. Anyhow ... it's a matter of personal choice. I, for my part, wouldn't want to race in anything allegedly substandard for the road, never mind take them to a race meet ... It's a moot point though, as I don't race anymore, and I'm fortunate enough to still have a good fitting set of leathers that I trust for trackdays.

Brembo "Goldline" IIRC were always favoured in the Supermoto community as they are small, and you could shave the back of them also, to help with tight clearances between disks and sopkes.

14 secs over 2nd place ... were you pushing :o) With regards the leathers - get rid of those Alpinestars - as you've found out, anyone who has every raced in them never buys a second pair! Not sure who does leathers that are worth their weight anymore - I always had Crowtrees which survived several years of racing and sliding until they were cut off me :o( I replaced them with hideout leathers - which I've still got and are respectably scuffed to buggery and still holding together very well. As for off the shelf leathers you can race in, takle a look round the paddock at what others are wearing and crashing in ;o)

It's hard to tell from the photo whether the hones cross hatching is going through the scores, or vice versa. I suspect a mixture of the two as there is one (the larger one centre stage) that looks like typical of poor (over tight) clearances.

Our KRC Endurance series SRAD 750 made 140 back in the day. Came with warning about not letting it idle (I assume to keep it oiled well) and was an amazing bike all in (suspension woes aside). It lasted the season - but it did go off the boil in the last hour of the last race.

Basically if you like short lever travel go with a bigger master piston. if you like longer travel and more feel, go with a smaller master piston. 19 radial works well with the Nissin 4 pots IIRC.

Came across a list of bikes with 25mm Front Axle Diameters 25mm Kawasaki ZX750 ZX-7, ZX-7R, ZX-7RR 91-96, ZX900 B ZX-9R 94-97, ZX1100 D ZX-11 93-97, Suzuki GSX-R750 96-97, TL1000 S 97. GSX-R600 97 Not exactly helpful ... but gives me more to go at!

I've been trying to get my head around what you mean? Pictures?

Have a look at my build thread ... essentially a 750 frame with an 1100 air-cooled in it. All mounts were standard except the bottom mount which was offset to the rear and required an L-Shaped mount making up.

You need a long one ... the short one goes top right.

Back in my RG570 days I gave up on the fuel pump we'd fitted as the grosse vales couldn't cope in the RG bored out flatslides. Larger grosse valves helped for a while but were still prone to sticking with the occasional flow of fuel out of the over flows and a pump that wouldn't shut off. In the end I just went with a twin line Pingle tap which solved things for me after I vented the tank. As with all things, you make a change to solve something and it can add another issue somewhere else!

So back to either the ducati one, drill out the bandit one, or find a cable that would mate the mito drive to the Katina clocks! Cheers for taking a look - much appreciated.

I hate watching race vids ... It reminds me how much I miss racing, and how little I can afford it nowadays! Age and other commitments get in the way sometimes - So quite happy to relive previous days vicariously. That Oulton vid really does allow you to hear the difference in the motor. Much cleaner since the dialling in you did. Likewise it seems to hold a line way better, and definitely looks more planted. Anyhow @maxwin ... I look forward to reading about your exploits in the winged hammers section.

Right ... I reckon looking at it, the Mito one might do. It's correct sizing - could you have a look to see if the Suzuki cable will mate. The mito one looks unfeasibly short base don Eblag pictures!! If you could measure the width so I can take a look at my spacers and what needs changing that would also be helpful.

Cheers. .. I reckon FCRs it is! It'll be the 39s - which I understand are plenty sufficient for a 1216 engine.

I thought you just twist the throttle once to squirt some fuel in! Then hit the start on a closed throttle?

I am away for the week. I aim to decide direction when I get back.

I can see most peeps opt for Mikuni RS36 or 38's for obvious reasons of availability and cost. I've always planned to get some for my project. However, I do have a potential source for some horizontal FCR39 carbs at a good price - (they also come with some velocity stacks and are fully refreshed, which save a few bob). I have read everything I can on their use with late Oil Cooled motors ... but cannot really find any obvious comparison between them on the internerd. Any "they are way better" of "they suck" comments before I throw money into them. The GSXR1100M motor will be going high compression 1216 in the foreseeable. I have a push pull throttle. I have no idea whether the carb mounting changes from the standard carb rubbers (any one know)? Anyone have any experience directly with them?