Solcambs

Could that be a GS1100ET with Katana bodywork? What does it say is the model on the registration documentation?

I did my Katana 750 import frame using that ...the only difference bing I used tubing for the centre section, and it seems to have worked a treat. Judging by how the old girl behaved around Cadwell with a GSX1100 engine, I'd say the bracing works pretty darned well.

Thumbs up here ... that looks lovely

I cut and paste that with the intention of confirming sizes of small and big ends ... but never got there! Given that Gen 1 Hayabusa pistons are the same small end size IIRC, I was trying to confirm the actual sizes via the power of the internerd and failed!

Looking at their website they do three variants labelled Suzuki .. all Hayabusa. 040DF10120 SZH4705AZWB4-C Suzuki Hayabusa 119.5mm 119.5mm 41.006 18mm 20.980 20.980 5/16" BT51500-4 Call 2008-2014 Gen 2 040DF14117 SZH4606AZCB4-C Suzuki Hayabusa 117mm 117.0mm 41.006 20mm 20.980 20.980 5/16" BT51500-4 Call 1999-2007 Gen 1 040DF14120 SZH4705AZCB4-C Suzuki Hayabusa 119.5mm 119.5mm 41.006 20mm 20.980 20.980 5/16" BT51500-4 Call 1999-2007 Gen 1

That looks lean to me ....

What width are you using currently? There is a 13 inch wide one IIRC

Especially one that looks oldskool :o)

I need to ride one I think :o)

I don't want to get into any argument about this on a turbo forum .. jeesh! MarkGSXR just go do it :o) @MeanBean49 - your bike is way better than the one's I have ridden - no doubt about it ... BUT it still sounds less than eager going up Coppice and through Charlie's 1 and 2. Whether that is just because there is a turbo fitted or because you aren't opening the throttle because being on turbo would be uncomfortable, or the gearing means you can't be on turbo I can't tell. So it's pretty subjective. It does seem like you are tentative, especially through Chris and coming out of the horrible off camber Barn corner, your bike off the apex is dropped by the bike in front. Yours is definitely waiting to get on turbo. So it does actually demonstrate my point. Your bike is hugely fast, and who am I to judge your enjoyment of it - it's your bike, and I know it would be fun to ride. You can obviously ride BTW ... and even your own description of the video says, "trying to ride my bike with the boost turned up". Back to my original point - fitting a turbo does limit some aspects of a bikes capability near the limit of lean, and can have a detrimental affect of driveability in some situations. I guess another way of saying it needs some respect. Bloody hugely fun and addictive I am sure :o) Please don't read this as a negative to anything you have done for you, or your riding, or what you want from your bike ... just me saying not for me on a track as I like to ride fast and I can ride closer to the edge of handling (my kick) on a NA bike and that you have bigger cahones than me :o)

I obviously rode old tech turbo then :o)

I stick to my guns ... - I have ridden a turbo'd bandit and a turbo'd R1 - neither of which had any guts off turbo, and both were fearsome on turbo. The end result of the bandit on the road was a bike that I couldn't get anything from most of the time I wanted it. In a straight line it was twist, wait ... whoooosh! However spirited riding was impossible as most corners confounded the bike as you enter off boost and daren't hit the boost cranked over. The R1 on the track was a giggle, 210hp of wheel/sky moments and the wastegate noise was hilarious - wind on, hit boost, wheelie, close throttle and chirrup goes the wastegate - wind on chirrup, wind on chirrup :o) However, trying to get cranked over in any corner was an accident waiting to happen. Take Chris Curve at Cadwell on most bikes and you can attack it, driving through the corner. On the R1 you are very conscious that if the turbo hits mid corner you'll be in trouble as it will take what ever throttle you have dialled in and if that is too much you'll be into the scenery. The corner is asking you to wind on, but on the lower compression engine initially winding on does nothing so you wind the throttle more, and then the turbo starts to come on and you have to release some throttle. So you end up trying to go into the corner in a gear that puts you onto boost, and then the turbo starts to run away from you on the slightest increase of throttle. Very unnerving when you are trying to drive through the corner but balance things. I reckon what I am saying is that they aren't easy to ride fast round a track. Too much effort thinking about machine control and balancing inputs. Normally aspirated engines can be taken closer to the handling edge, and I prefer that challenge when riding a bike ... that's mostly why I ride bikes in fact, and the turbo just got in the way of that enjoyment for me ... I want to lay a bike over feel what the bike is doing close to the edge of grip. Anyhow as I said .. YMMV ... I'd love one for giggles - but for me anyhow I like powerful normally aspirated engines.

Build one ... but go into it eyes open. It will cost. Also be wary that it's what you want from a bike. The truth probably is (based on my own experience of riding but not owning one) that a turbo bike is often typically slower for the most part than the bike that started the process, most of the time. Low compression makes a bike flat and unresponsive. That is until they build revs and get on song. Then they are less of a bike and more like every fairground ride you have every ridden combined into a few seconds of madness. Then you let go of the throttle and do it all over again just because it is addictive. I loved riding a turbo bike, but I want more than turbo induced giggles. I want it to be something I can control and not just ignite and hang on (as fun as that can be)! YMMV!

http://www.addictionmotorsport.co.uk/popular/accossato-cable-clutch-lever-assembly

It is modded of course with the Ohlins :o)

Pretty sure I have one lying around ...drop me a PM if you are interested. It is not clean - and no where near the standard of the renovation you are doing. But would give you a starter for 10! I may even have a relatively new clutch cable. In the end I bought an Accosato cable clutch to put on my project. Though now moving to put an oilblower into the frame, so will be moving to hydraulic clutch. Alternatively you could use a new Bandit 600 one I would imagine - pretty sure they are a cable clutch.

Don't know - but are you looking for one, or looking for an alternative?

That is without doubt the best start to an original resto that I have seen. damned great start. I pity your bank balance :o)

Wasn't Japan very restrictive and then moved to allowing only 400cc ... and the grey import business was born for models not sold anywhere except Japan and exported at x years when the cost of the equivalent of an MOT was too expensive to keep the bike on the road and buying a new model was more attractive?. :o)

Restriction typically was to 100bhp IIRC. Most French large capacity bikes were restricted back in the day if my brain is not playing tricks on me. Restriction was easily overcome in 99.9999% of cases.

Except many of the engines in a GSXR-1100 around 1990-1991 show a V711 engine number!!

Thanks for that ... never mind. If he gets quiet and all that :o)

They look rather similar to mine ... I have a manual for them somewhere - there's some photos to compare with those on my build thread Click here to jump to that thread

Oooo ... perfect timing ... I have an 1100M motor with no clutch push rod. I ordered one and it appears too long. I'm wondering if it has had some other messing about done to the engine at some point ... but worth measure the one I have - if it's 101.5 then something gives somewhere - if it's longer I got the wrong part and it can be cut down :o)

Likewise I may be interested in a set for upside down TL1000S forks. Depending on cost obviously!