Solcambs

I Toyko there's a few very small and tight shops spread along the street just East of Ueno station. Worth having a gander around - but be prepared to dig deeper into the shops. I can't remember which one exactly had all the vintage gold flake helmets ...but they had a couple of rather pretty restomod type customs parked up outside. One Z1 in particular was put together beautifully. There's also the place that sells all the Kat aircooled mods - but that was I think in Shinagawa - and buggered if I can remember it's name after a weekend of sun and beer!

I think when we did the RG570 motor with 3D ignition we started with standard. Ran 100% throttle and optimised for that with fuelling and ignition curve. Then ran 50% and played with the ignition line for that. Then just blended the 3D map between. On the road there was a noticeable change in engine eagerness associated with 50% or higher throttle. Ultimately - it produced amazing power for an RG was very 4 stroke in nature ... or rather there was no obvious 2 stroke it so it was such an easy bike to ride on the track. Hang on.. pretty sure I have a graph somewhere. Here you go ... Standard map and adjusted 3D ignition map compared after one dyno day.

All carb rubbers have a part code on them. Worth just sticking that number in google and going fro there. You'll then know what the rubbers are off, what carbs were originally fitted etc.

7 mins 10 secs .. that bike looks familiar!

Interestingly - I had a conversation with a mate who is an F1 engineer at a recent winning F1 team. He has an RG500 gamma, and a slabby. When he saw my build he dropped me a note and said "you are running filters aren't you?" - Open bellmouths = guaranteed early failure. Carbs ingest crap period. This degrades oil, wears rings, reduces engine performance exponentially until failure. Open bellmouths look cool ... but unless you have very low service life on an highly tuned motor ... not worth it! I also spoke to FrankMX .. who sells those filter sets, and also sold me my FCRs ... and his advice was that IHHO the filter he was selling worked best with a non-airbox set up, and hardly affected the power against completely open. Drop him a mail - he's a knowledgeable guy, and very open to questions.

Don't know much about the 1157 ... but when I looked for a lump for the Kat I opted for the 1127 from an M/N. My rationale was that the port shapes were already better, they matched the 38mm Mikuni or 39 Keihin flat slides better. They have no options for cams without spending stupid wonga with Yoshimura, but the followers don't like it anyhow. However they respond very well to cubes - so as a base for a 1216 they do well. They do not need valve work, as the valves are large enough to flow enough for good power and torque. They can be retro fitted with a spring clutch from the earlier models, as the diaphragm clutch is week - comparatively - but still good for 150 hp. The 1052 is probably equally good, but needs more headwork (relatively) to run flat slides and does not flow quite s well as the later models.

They look to be 40mm ---

@370steveWith relation to the GSXR1100M the EU bikes have 46mm intakes; the US bikes have 42mm. Which is equivalent to the 40mm CV vs the 36mm CV. The FCR39s I have fit beautifully in the 46mm intake boots. they bolt right up on my N head obviously. I believe they also bolt onto the earlier J,K,L head but the ports need matching as they aren't the same shape. I would suggest that the boot from the M/N with part numbers as shown below would work for you subject to some port work.

**thud*** - that's my jaw hitting the deck! Beautiful!

Yup @MeanBean49 said something similar. Though high comp engines make heat all the time - whereas turbos generate most on boost. We’ll see - sure it will be fine. If not - there’ll Be a solution.

I have a 1216 High compression .. just going through this myself. Just bought a 19 row earls. If that is not enough, I thought perhaps the 13 row original might fit in front of the 19 as an option. First step is to see if the 19 row works I guess. I also assume if you run fully synth, then the oil will last longer over mineral and semi. The following is mineral oil failure at temperature over mileage - semi is better, and full synth is better still. Reading between the lines, oil (mineral, works well enough) up to 250F (120C) - you could expect significant oxidation by 2000 miles at 120C! Above that temperature then it degrades very quickly. So fit a temperature gauge,.

I acquired in June 2006 a Suzuki GSX 1100 F, first hand with 25 tkm. Already after A short journey time, there was a dissatisfaction in driving behaviour and especially Behaviour when wet with the Metzler tires. I had already ridden 1988 a thick one, but I had this driving behaviour no longer in Memory. In the meantime, I was driving some other motorcycles, including 2 Suzuki GSX 1100 R. Gogle translate does a reasonable job.

Just out one interest do you find the oil drains from the cooler over time - making oil height measurement an issue for the engine when it's sat for a while?

Another spanner in the works is the later 180/60 rear with a 120/70 front - I have that the Kat and hope it will retain the quicker steering feel of a 170 over a 180/55. We'll see when i finally get to run it at full chat and have the suspension working well.

You've therefore answered your own question

Or in my case access to a man with access to a rotary table, milling machine and plethora of other heavy metal objects design to make light work of modifying metal.

Welcome to OSS .. I found this place right after I'd bought a box of bits. I was made instantly welcome, and I can honestly say without reservation, that this resource - or rather the amazing bunch of people who bother to read and respond to the posts on here, I'd probably: Not have RTFR Be even more reliant on bought in expertise Have made decisions but they would have been way less qualified by expertise and experience Before OSS I reckon I was in a state of unconscious incompetence. I may very well have moved into a state of conscious incompetence, and hope to make it to the heady heights of conscious competence one day.

I've opted to slot the cams up to 110 inlet and exhaust. We can then do some sweeps on the dyno and see what it does when it goes back together. I have so many unknowns at the mo ... 1216, FCR39s, standard (refaced) M cams in a ported N head. I am of course assuming I can get to the cams when it's in the Kat 750 frame in-between dyno runs - probably not that easy to do. That an the fact actually measuring the damn things at max lift is problematic anyhow ... However, onward and upwards.

It's not just the cost of buying it though is it ... apart from the obvious tax and insurance costs, the cost of modification will probably bust any hope of keeping sensible budget anyway. It may be advertised as "mint" but is it really. It's a 28 year old bike. I'd say just do some research, get a feel for how much you can spend right now, then make a reasonable/fair offer base don what you see. The owner can only say no!

If my poor memory serves me correctly the standard centre lobe timing of a oil-cooled motor is 106/110 degrees. We had the engine on the bench today and checked the timing of the lobe centres at their highest point. It's a fiddly business measuring, but we reckon we were pretty accurate measuring 105/109 - so that corroborates well, Can anyone confirm my understanding that 106/110 is standard. Given it's high compression Wiseco based build in a 1216 with some port tidying, and standard re-faced cams in an M/N motor, would it be worth slotting the cams?. Would anyone have any info about what timing works well with the 1216 high compression engine? Or should I quit worrying and just go with the 105/109? I'm beginning to wonder whether slotting the cams, would have much effect given we haven't reground just refaced? Would being at 105/109 actually be far enough away from stock as to notice it - or is there actually ground to be made in power or torque with stock refaced cams slotted to match a 1216 bore and porting.

LOL - that's just reminded me of a crash at Snetterton. I was getting arm pump when racing and a mate of mine, full of useful advice, suggested that pushing the inside bar was the best approach as it released the death grip most riders have on the bars during braking and turning. He'd been to the California Superbike School whose mantra was you could never loose the front end turning the bike quicker. Counter steering hard using a pushing action on the inside bars was something they focus don, and my mate was at pains to relate every detail of their approach. So, I went out into the next race and made a conscious effort to push the inside bar, rather than pull the outside bar. I ended up peeling into Riches at Snetterton, running wide, and doing the earth sky boogy (something I had never done before) - back in the paddock he asked what went wrong! Simple, I said - I should have pulled when I pushed, ran wide and crashed! What? he said. You can't lose the front - Keith Side says so! You should turn quicker pushing not pulling. Ahhhh said I. It's easy really, I pushed on the inside consciously releasing my grip into a right hander. I let go of the brake doing it ... I ended up into the corner hotter than expected and ran wide! Keith Code obviously forgot to mention that one!

Now that looked like a great launch all said and done! The superstreet looked was wickedly quick ! The first 100ft - boom and gone!

The Harris exhaust that I'm using is messed with ... but, it is a 40mm ID header based 4-1. I do plan to try and mess about with a set of bandit 1200 headers. Realistically I am floundering around a bunch available options. Racefit Legend based custom exhaust - possibly too loud, very expensive, looks great, and friggin light. Unknown effect on power and torque . Bandit headers mated to the Harris end - may involve a sump swop, and unknown effect on power and torque Akro GSXR1100 full exhaust - possible fit, but unknown fitment with the GSX750 frame ... looking for tight close fitment to bottom frame rail. Noise output should be good, likely good all round performance. Reasonable cost. Looks slightly naff on a Katana based bike IMHO ... but functional. GSXR modern serpentine headers mated to oldskool rear, custom mid pipe. reasonable cost, looks probably OK, though the headers would not follow the frame rails. probably a reasonable power output.

Click here http://oldskoolsuzuki.info/archives/404