boilerdude

That 4th gear issue. Ive actually run into that with a lot of bikes (not super enhanced ones mind you). exactly 4th gear. my other b12 did it my current b12 does it. Of course my blades all did it... Something about 4th gear. Not all the time but occasionally. It seems like the laziest gear on most bikes if you dont shift right.

Truth is if the bike is tweaked I'm pretty sure there is no place to take it for untweaking. I am smack in the middle of (just get rid of that old jap junk and buy a harley) land. Nobody specializes in shit. There's a "grind it till it works" custom bike shop downtown with a major elitist (harley and Gurls blouse above all) attitude. And they suck... If I showed you guys some of their work you would be downright shocked and appalled. I'll give you an example... This idiot I know took his blackbirdto get an f4i subframe (because he wanted a split tail instead of the old man touring seat on a bird). And it looks like shit but nevermind that... He says to the shop he wants a 4 into 1 header. So instead of telling this guy "well you should buy a 4 into 1 header from this brand or that brand" this custom shop plugs and welds shut his header on one side. There's your 4 into 1 blackbird. It is now restricted to 600 size exhaust. Sounds super quiet and weird. Complete shit show. And I'm sure all that welding cost a good portion of a nice 4 into 1 on Eblag... The type of shops that will take advantage of every inch of what you dont know. Called the specialist machine shop in the yellow pages. Says right on their ad no order too small. they can make any bracket yada yada. Wouldn't even take my phone call for more than 10 seconds to say "we're too busy" and it sounded like he meant basically forever... So luckily I caught the part about teapot 600 caliper and bracket. Thats simple enough to take to somebody around here.

Right. I'm sure it's obvious I havent had the stuff apart yet. But sometimes it's good to know these things before I tear it apart rather than sit there clueless on what parts to even buy. Or where to get them. Rather than having to look at it all first. And then wait for the new parts while my motor is apart gathering dust. In short thank you for being helpful and communicative. also got the 750 oil pump gears yesterday from that one site (drive gear was oem shelf stock and driven gear came with an oil pump obviously gutted from a bike. gear is perfectly as new looking...) 140 total

"Clutch back plate and springs. Torque damper springs tend to flatten over time even on stock power and turbo torque can push them through thin stock back plate. So HD back plate and springs are must for any tuned engine." So where do I find this stuff? The engine is worth taking care of no matter how twisted the rest of the bike may or may not be... Is a heavy duty backplate something I can buy somewhere or do I need to have that made? The springs I need are barnett I reckon. Should I run thick springs in all the slots? get them little wussy springs outta there?

Well thats only partly the motor to blame. Nitrous does not discriminate. Nitrous destroys.

If I knew I would be happy to help...

So it happened on a missed shift during a 75 shot of nitrous and also your rev limiter failed... And then all that happened?

But if you dont adjust for the wider wheel how do you adjust for the wider wheel? Afterall space is limited in a stock swingarm. Also as Jacktar has clearly shown us swingarm extensions are pretty much excluded from this matter (thank you for the help though buddy. Sorry for coming off kinda prickish...) as he says he needed to ADD 3mm of spacer to a wheel that is already 12mm wider at the hip (on that side). So basically a lot can get changed with extensions. Factory tolerances and any translatable reference goes straight out the window. I get what you are saying. Until I go over my bike with a fine tooth comb using these tedious methods that you all apparently have known from birth I will never have your acceptance... But it will have big wheels on it though

also the shorter the wheelbase the more noticeable an error. longer bike doesnt care as much.

This is true. If I were measuring with rulers or strings the alignment from the back wheel to front. The first order would indeed be to make sure the back wheel is in fact "pointed the right direction" first. But instead I did the lazy halfass method of simply measuring the difference in width between the wheels and then lazily stumbling onto an internet tutorial from somebody who already worked all of this out. And quickly deducing that his measurements put the wheel very close to where I measured that it was going to be. And thats how I knew "I found it". Because yes I did put some effort towards this. And now we see another benefit of using my "just measure and compare the rear wheels" method. And that is the above mentioned error factor that 6 ft of motorcycle allows. I say one more time. If the bikes were that horribly different from one another. That would mean each wheel spacer would need to have been custom made to each one of those thousands of gsxrs and efes. ALL with their own special hand made spacers... No no my friends this is a cut and dried thing. I could do it the same way over and over again. Once somebody gets it right the first time. I can just copy them. Like a big copycat. Just like there is an archived tutorial for the front wheel.

yea yea. It's not an rgv250. It was good enough for those other satisfied customers. If the handling is noticeably off I will only need to machine down the left spacer a tiny bit further (almost to nothing). And then add washer to the far right side. As it is likely off 1-3mm to the starboard side.

Yes I can cut the steering head out of the frame and move the front end over later if need be. Or I can have somebody make some custom off center triple clamps. To correct the handling.

Well thats fine and all due respect I'm more in line than some. In this particular swap there is a mere matter of 1-3mm of difference between "aligned with front" or "centered in swingarm for maximum tire fitment." . I have deduced that the "experts" have chosen goal B because it's close enough to goal A. And after seeing what is good enough for some I figure "at least it's not THAT bad" is good enough for me.

Thats funny. Nobody saying that snide bullshit to the guy who's 8 mm out and "sold the bike off" ilke that.. People still worship his shit for whatever reason and thats just a minor acceptible imperfection. But since I'm not one of the "elites" heaven forbid mine be 2 or 3 mm out. Hypocrisy at it's finest. nepotistic ass kissery. And by casually hijacked you mean... I'm the only motherfucker that actually helped dlindberg figure this out. And he is probably also on his way to being finished with this.

I had the sprocket spacer machined down to 4.5mm. And the sprocket carrier machined down to suit. Then went and got 14mm worth of washers for the right side just to see if it all fits snug. And it's perfect. All thats left is have the bracket made 14mm thick and order a 3/8 offset front sprocket from drag specialties. By my measurements the slingshot bracket with E caliper would be perfect for the job if the bolt holes werent off that little tiny bit and also if the bearing part was solid so you could just machine it down. The EFE bracket puts either caliper 2mm inward on the disk apart from also being meant for a much bigger disk. one more thing I have to take the wheel back off and double check is the distance from the pad track on the gsxr disk to spindle. But if My calculations and remaining assumptions are correct then... You basically just copy the gsxr bracket. but with the bolt holes for the E caliper. And indeed 14mm thick at the spacer portion of the bracket. And it doesn't need to have a stupid bearing there obviously. Edit: the "copy gsxr bracket" idea will work but the pads will be a tad high on the disk. The distance from bolts to spindle could be shortened a few mm. One step closer to being off riding. Unfortunately not within a week of starting like that other lucky guy. But we're getting there... Thanks captain gaos.

yes you have an L they will fit.

what calipers are those? o i c. pretech. unfamiliar.

well which is it then? are you still withholding goodies or are you all of a sudden disdainful of your previous advice. A tad confusing that it's both things now. I'm calling your bluff. Also the popcorn thing petty as it may be carries an implication that you are (excuse me... were...) sitting on a goldmine but enjoying watching me struggle. The important thing is getting equal clearance at the front of the swingarm. for maximum tire size. And obviously that will put the wheel close enough to being aligned on the bike. I doubt it will be 8mm out anyway. It's only a few off from my "stock efe wheel position" method I was originally going with. But then a stock efe wheel has plenty of room on either side of the swingarm. That spacer method or aligning the entire bike would be more likely to limit tire size to 160 or 170. Main focus is simply swingarm clearance up front. And I doubt theres that much error in that vastness of 2 or 3 feet of swingarm. So then...The next thing is chain run. and I dont see anybody in that other thread like "hey I did this and my chain keeps popping off". They obviously werent so horribly off that each spacer had to be hand made to each bike. As I am pretty sure they arent... This is actually kinda fun. Using my own wit and resourcefulness to learn how to modify bikes. Through a combination of internet research, common sense, and psychoanalysis.

I did. I'm gonna. The shit is at the shop. I may even get to ride the bike this fall. https://ithaca.craigslist.org/mcy/d/1985-suzuki-gs1150e-rare-find/6332649721.html Also might pick this up over the next few days if he still has it. And do the same thing with it. straight away. without hassle. Hell maybe I could even market a kit in the US.

Yes that fact has been well established long before this particular thread. hey I'm just trying to HELP THE NEXT GUY. Keep eating that popcorn. You've proven to only be willing to "tease with tidbits" from the beginning of my politely asking (simplest way to fit wheels on efe). This could have been done and done with in 1 or 2 replies... Now you wanna make me feel like I lost out on other precious info because of "my attitude" . Thats RICH. You guys have your heads way up your asses. A couple weeks later. someone else comes along trying to ask the same question. It's as if you... people... would rather drag this out than be helpful and get on with life. Compared with a somewhat different version of ones self from 2013. Much like you'd all rather sit back and watch your wives get gangraped rather than consider licensed gun ownership. You know "gods country" and all that. Stubborn arrogant limey fuckheads. If you just (be a sport) put it in the archives. People will stop coming along and asking the same question... And while they're at it (or not) I'm sure someone could probably be a dear and also put slabside wheel swap info (front and rear. mainly front...) and then people would stop asking that same goddamn thing as well. And not have to roll down the road with god knows what setup like poor jacktar and cockneyrick. I'm good from here I can figure out how to place the efe caliper on the gsxr disk and have someone make that bracket. And also thanks to ME. The next 5 or 10 dudes who want to do this in 2018 and beyond can be directed to this thread and in turn to that other thread on aircooled suzuki (should they not google the right combination of words or their search engine never lead them there). And not have to waste hours and sweat about uncertainties and inexperience. you know. INFO. efe carrier in slingshot (5.5) wheel. left spacer reduced to 4.5mm. seal removed and "outer wall" cut down until the spacer is once again the first thing protruding. replace bearing with a sealed version NSK brand 6305DDU bearing (avoid 6305DDUC3 rating. the C3 part means its made with slightly loose clearances for high heat applications. so avoid ones that say C3. Just get 6305DDU) Right side gsxr spacer and 14mm thick hanger. For the next innocent soul trying to get to the bottom of this and not trying to dick around wasting time. Use an early teapot 600-750 caliper and caliper hanger. Fits the gsxr disk and is on top style. To allow continued use of the efe anchor arm.

now I know it's the right way. you seem super rattled that I finally found it. and no more snide remarks about how im still going about it the wrong way. Right then... onward with life. You assholes do whatever you want. I'm still going to have enough of a fun time figuring out the caliper mount. without big pictures to look at. But I'll manage.

Found what I was looking for. http://www.aircooledsuzuki.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=301&start=20 Was googling around for oil cooled into efe motor mount bluebrints (so I can just have those made before I get started). And I stumbled across this. A time when people used to be much more helpful I guess. The photos have expired but I have most of the info I need from posts throughout the thread. Airfix kit style set of instructions and whatnot. All thats left to figure out is placing the efe caliper correctly on the gsxr disk with custom bracket dimensions. which can be figured out. It would be great if somebody would just update their photobucket account. But I've definitely got enough to get the ball rolling. No offense toward you gs. but clearly some others have grown tired of being as helpful as they used to be. It has been done enough times that yes someone did document accurate spacer thickness to get maximum tire clearance to either side of the swingarm. And they were once happy to at least point others toward the info. Who am I kidding. You guys probably already pm'd this info to dlindberg (I did anyway because I like to help folks like that). So he can just get it done straight away.

you mentioned something about taking 15mm off of your sprocket carrier. I dont really know which carrier you were using or if your bike was even an efe. and also if you measured from your front wheel to rear and got your alignment that way there may be an average error of a few mms that every bike is slightly different. If yours is a 3 or 4 mm this way bike and mine is a 3 or 4 mm that way bike. there could be an error of 5-7mm when comparing straightness from one bike to another. manufactured in 1985. but I did take your advice to jump in and go about this my own way. perhaps even the same way with the rulers after all. although that particular method I would only trust done with one bike. And could not confidently transfer that data to another efe wheel swap.

you mean get things exactly right and not just rush it together and go down the road crooked. and actually line up more than just the sprockets. sure. it's called being meticulous. and if I buy another efe and want to do the same thing to it indeed I wont need to do any of this "fannying" about. I will be the first out of hundreds of people to do this and actually keep accurate measurements documented. I could just machine the sprocket carrier all the way down until the inner spacer is now the only spacer. and the wheel would be only a mm or 2 off to the left. But I dont wanna do that. Your method of aligning with the front wheel does appear straightforward and fool proof. But I have reasons that I'm not going to do it that way. Every bike is different true... So then if somebody were going to make this a replicable kit one day... Or at least document accurate measurements for what needs cut... It should not be measured to one entire bike with crookedness and imperfections from 1985 throughout. I am going to measure with rear wheels and spacers (because those particular parts ARE very precise and the same from one bike to the next) so that this will work on the next efe I may come across. And the next after that.

I took the cush rubbers out of each wheel for better measurement to make sure the efe carrier fits into either hub exactly the same when up against the spacer (as it is certainly against the spacer when everything gets tightened down.) And the efe carrier fits perfectly flush with the outer wall of the hub on either wheel. So that tells me now I can simply measure from that outer lip on each hub to the center of the wheel. And once again I got a difference in the ballpark of 12.5 - 12.75 mmSo the outer spacer needs about that much taken off. And then the carrier itself and the large rubber seal both will need shaved back for clearance. So that the spacer is of course the first thing to contact... And then address the bolts. The spacer itself is about 13.3mm So all thats left is going to be 1mm or less. So NOW is the part where we can maybe find a washer to suit. 1 or 2 mm thick would be just fine. Though I do intend to get even more precise measurements yet. I'm going to take the tire off the efe wheel and measure the rim from lip to lip and get the exact center marked somehow. And then the same for the gsxr wheel. I understand that each bike is different. And while aligning with the front wheel may in fact be the better way of doing this swap on any individual bike. I'm choosing the route of measuring wheels and spacers because something tells me those particular parts are much more similar between one bike or the next. And getting measurements this way will make the process more documentable and duplicable in the future. So that the gsxr wheel is spaced exactly as the efe wheel was in the swingarm. However crooked the rest of that particular bike may have become over time. Those issues need addressed directly to their own right. The wheel is going to go exactly where the other wheel was. So that this can be a documented duplicable thing.