boilerdude

I get the idea that is just one dude saying a thing on the internet. But it sounds like he knows what he's doing. but where does that leave the compression I wonder. And how survivable (with efe block and fins)

but the swap already calls for an offset front sprocket. It would likely put it closer to just right I assume. In fact with the efe drive in the gsxr wheel the sprocket alignment is guaranteed to not need any modding in the front. But I hear what you're saying. the subframe is the part thats "not where it should be". Probably tipped over at some point and was perhaps fixed up again nice and original like with long turn signals and everything. But on the other hand it does seem otherwise original and not layed over. The turn signals are cracking into a hundred pieces like I'm sure you guys know they do over time. but still hold true.. but still though. Do I take it somewhere and get the frame straightened. Or just install the wheel with the efe drive and see where that puts the wheel on the bike. nah thats probably silliness. I need to just get the wheel centered to the arm and then get the bike straightened or not ... I have both rear wheels at a local machine shop. Ive commisioned them with measuring from the sprocket side spacer to the center of the wheel on both wheels. figure out the difference. then the efe carrier swaps into the sling/bandit wheel (which improves clearance) and then take measurement again on the gsxr wheel. figure out how much closer to correct that gets the wheel and then take the remaining bit off of the efe spacer. I suppose the ball is already rolling on that. So dont worry it's getting done the right way I suppose

So My efe is a tad "crooked" when comparing the alignment with the subframe and the swingarm/rear wheel. The wheel is over to the left a noticeable bit when you look at it. Well when I swap the gsxr rear wheel what if I move the wheel "to the right a tad" in the swingarm so it's more centered on the actual bike. Ok idea? bad idea? I may not even have to modify the spacer on the sprocket side. Just throw it in there (with the efe carrier) and then machine the brake side to suit... This sound like a dumb idea for any glaring reason? Fix a little bit of that efe crookedness by just moving the wheel over a bit when I swap them?

I was unaware the efe block needed changed out for this. I thought this was the recipe... You need to shorten EFE cylinder block 2,5 mm to get zero deck with Busa pistons. Front cam chain guide needs to shorten 2,5mm from the top. Get Cometic 80mm MLS head gasket and open cylinder holes to 81mm (you need to bore rivets, deburr holes and wash between layers).Adjust cams 110/110. Tune carbs and enjoy. Read more: http://old-skool-suzuki.proboards.com/thread/5511/busa-pistons-efe-block#ixzz4tjRsZ9mP anybody know off hand where this would leave the compression^^^?

so if 8.2:1 gets hot idling in traffic I could be sure a 9.5 or 10 compression 1428 would cook itself fast sitting and idling for any minutes. yes?

but wait I thought we were talking about n/a build. just 1428 not boost. What is your compression ratio? Lets assume it's lowish somewhere at least under 10:1. As a matter of fact the efe stock compression ratio is nice and low like 9.5 if i remember correctly. What if I do 1428 all motor but keep a nice reasonable 9.5 or 10 compression ratio. relaxed and torquey. still too hot? also the oil loss problem. was that unique to your bike like a leak somewhere or was it heat related and I should expect similar effects.

good stuff Arttu. Sorry I'm in the states though. Shipping cost would probably rival the value of the motor itself.

Thats funny I just messaged duckn dive last night about fitting slingy rear wheel to efe. I'll just stick with that for now. When you say something like "ask this guy over here. he's one of the very few people who have even tried it..." well I suppose thats my answer fair enough.

ya thats too much displacement for me to throw that much money and time at something and even have the slightest worry of getting stuck in traffic and ruin it all. Plus what fuel mileage does a 1428 get. 10 mpg?

http://old-skool-suzuki.proboards.com/thread/5511/busa-pistons-efe-block post 4 hin this old thread has a nice tidy summary of what to do. But with regards to heat and compression and displacement.. I wonder is that setup capable of being reliable for the street?

Ive had a set of busa pistons for 100 bucks off Eblag for 3 years now. I know they're not the optimum shape and I know about the heat spots if you dont grind the corner thingy's off of them if your afr is bad. But they are at least forgerd vs not if I understand correctly. Thats funny. The seller who sold me the efe was bragging how "these motor are stronger than the gsxr motor. these are the ones with the welded crank!." fuckin bullshitter yokie. but anyway. It was still worth and a nice bike. Whats this about torquey 1428 n/a build? Is that a thing people do? What compression does that come out to? Would it cook itself on the street ( even with bandit oil cooler or a gsxr 750 curved oil cooler and also the gs750 oil pump gears?) risk of crank walk? nah this is leaning towards a bandit motor in the efe. Nonetheless I am curious

blow thru. maybe just get the motor prepped. Get the turbo I'd like and THEN just sortof call FBM at some point and talk about the hard stuff. spark control? sorry i'm new to this. does the spark timing need to be varied or made variable in some radical way. Or does it just need stronger? Promise I'll be happy with 200. well maybe 230 would be nice. Then again I bet 250 would be just about right. But surely I would be satisfied with that... I dont want to have to stretch the bike. I want to do 3rd and 4th gear turbo wheelies. Probably take the gearing UP 1 tooth in the front. maybe even take 1 or 2 off the rear sprocket. Old school highway bomber is what I want. Reliable for sustained runs and thousands of miles.

Just out of curiosity. what may be any benefits or drawbacks of going with either engine? What should be done to an efe engine in preparation for ~200 or so rideable hp (td04 or vf23 or vf24. I got that part figured out...). Do they have forged pistons already good for 200 or so. Are there magic suzuki swap pistons out of another bike to use rather than 900 dollar turbo pistons. that sort of thing. Or is there any reasons why a person should just start with a bandit motor to do this with?

nobody wanna argue? I'm not so sure those thingys are good now. I wanna hear what another smart person has to say back to that.

Just one of those things. Also the special 89 ones. the gsxr750r. or the rrk or whichever it's called. I had only recently noticed those ones also. which mine is painted in a rather halfass way to mimic.

snapping whole forks and shocks just riding down the road... jesus. and subframes. Just from riding so incredibly hard all the time? Or from actually crashing...

I didn't know they were that delicate. I'm gonna at least pick a day here (when I have more money) and try to get ahold of roland sands and at least have this conversation over the phone with a professional of some sort. one in the US who can help me without a fortune just in shipping of course...

I suppose my next question would be "does the slide itself really rattle that much to cause contact?". And also. can anybody confirm that these work with evidence of high mileage emulsion tubes that are still in decent shape?

the needle held solidly in a slide that rattles fore and aft isn't the magic solution to wear.notching the spacer helps excess low rpm richness by lowering the needle 2 extra positions.

It sounds like the OP is confusing a carb rebuild kit with a jet kit. A carb rebuild kit comes with some new orings and gaskets and a new float plug and float needle valve. Does not come with jets. you just clean those out with a couple toothbrush bristles. they generally dont "wear out" A jet kit is a jet kit. Comes with (bigger) jets and does not include orings or wear n tear items..

dindu nuffin <dindunuf@gmail.com> 9:16 AM (3 hours ago) to marc I see what you mean. the design should be a little thicker on top. But I still fail to see how holding the needle straight rather than leaning one way is bad. marc@factorypro.com 12:10 PM (37 minutes ago) to me Intake pressure fluctuations pulse in and out at low rpm - banging the slide and needle fore and aft - wearing the needle jet on 2 sides. With the needle cocked, it only wears on 1 side. They didn't realize that the spacer lowered the needle 2 notches. dindu nuffin <dindunuf@gmail.com> 12:44 PM (3 minutes ago) to marc yea but it seems the way that design fits "just so" into the step ought to hold the needle not only more straight but also more firmly so. Excusing the error in overall thickness. A hoop leaning against a step is less stable and more flimsy than a hoop simply resting flush to the ground. Holding tight to the needle.

I showed these to marc at factorypro. Here is his reply... "that lowers the needle 2 notches. The step is supposed to be there. It's a design feature to keep the needle from wearing on both sides.". Ok I dont know why this is white all of a sudden... but anyway Point#1. ok so the thing really should be thicker on top. (should be the thickness of the original donut PLUS the step down.)Or you can just add a couple extra shims I suppose Point#2. Open for debate.

verily

not sure if the ridge is the same. and nobody sells them. anybody who wants those has to take those measurements to a place that makes stuff out of stuff, and have them made.

Now that's the no class Ive been looking for. I will keep these things in mind.