boilerdude

Ok so I got my wheels back from the machine shop (having nothing done yet). And took some quick measurements you can believe me or not. With the efe sprocket carrier in the efe wheel and then efe carrier in gsxr wheel. 3mm most certainly does not need added on to the sprocket side spacer. There is approximately a 12.5mm difference to the center casting mark (not the most precise I know but it's there anyway.) and it is of course naturally the gsxr wheel which is a further distance. So approximately 12.5 mm needs cut off from the sprocket side by my measurements. (and the carrier hub itself will also need cut into. And also the sprocket bolts will need cut down to avoid fouling the swingarm. Just as with the gsxr carrier (or just pull them in with shims)) So now I wonder what carrier may offer more room yet. teapot 1100 perhaps. slabby. 88-89 750. I have the latter 2. gonna try and measure those up over the next few moments. Or perhaps I should just pick up a file and start shaving down my own spacer and then the actual hub and each of the sprocket bolts until the wheel is properly centered. Perhaps I could have the cush flaps and rubbers cut down And that inner spacer. bring it in that way. just a thought. The spacer would be the first thing. and then the flaps and rubbers merely need to fit firmly afterward.. I doubt there is clearance for the chain to the tire with this method. It really is starting to look like the best way to do this clean and proper is (bandit) swingarm swap with the upper shock mount welding.

Thank you. Understood. And after seeing how much offset others run without bother. Tells me I could in fact run a slightly thicker 4 or 5 mm added spacer and move the wheel 1 mm or 2 slightly towards my slightly crooked subframe. But no thats not the way. But it could be though. And I could save my output shaft more leverage. Understood. Any bike could be different. No one is to be held responsible for exact measurements. Though the oem spacers shouldn't be much different frome one efe to the next or between gsxrs of a certain vintage. Thats why I was thinking the wheels and the spacers should be all that is needed for initial centering. But there are a few different ways to skin a cat I reckon.

yes now that somebody has already spent 3 months digging for the right person to communicate. Also you can see in the animations jacktar01 needed to ADD approx 3mm to the sprocket side spacer. As dlindberg was inquiring about. Probably unsure of how to go about taking the measurements himself. Yet nobody is jumping down his throat for not just getting started. Matter of fact he's asking exactly what I was. AFTER having seen that whole circus of a thread already and HE is still unclear on the details and trying to ask the same question yet again... But he's probably a fellow brit so now we're all going to be positive and helpful right off the bat... One other thing Ive deduced from this whole exchange is if that other guy is running with his wheel 8mm off and his bike must be going down the road with a visible sidestep from the rear. And he says it doesn't bother him while riding. Then that tells me it's ok if the thing is off by a mm or 2 I suppose. Also thanks for that tip about the kawasaki front sprocket. That is good additional info to be prepared with along the way.

It wasn't my procedure to begin with. But I trust the fellow who was kind enough to spell it out for me. No I'm pretty sure I got it this time. I just needed to hear it in proper english. You go to the archives. and you go into the wheel swaps section. And behold the vast library of... oh wait. There's just one. One of a very small handful of other relevant how to's in the archive's. I'm just trying to gather and document information for archival purposes. I found exactly what I was looking for. Someone who has done it before and is willing to share measurements. Even if it took a minute to get through a slight difference in language barrier.

bad info. edited because wrong info. but it wasn't MY info. as suggested by gs 7-11 I am going to go about this my own way.

the 38s are finnicky in exactly the same way. ive got 20cm long hose on them as per factory pro readings. improvement but still not perfect.. perhaps I'll try restricting them like this next.

bad info. edited by me because wrong info.

that was just to try and see whats crooked. thats me trying with nobody explaining how to do shit. take a straight thing and see if the bike is as straight as the thing.

did I say measuring to bodywork and grab handles? No I said measuring from the spacer to the center of the wheel. jesus you guys are putting words in my mouth now. That was just me trying to have a look at whats bent and why.

The reason I'm not going to go with simply aligning the rear wheel to the front wheel is becase if my swingarm were slightly tweaked then I (have decided) dont want to compensate for any misalignment of the rear end by simply lining the rear wheel up with the front. I want to get the rear wheel centered relative to exactly where the stock rear wheel was centered in the swingarm. And if the swingarm needs replaced then the swingarm needs replaced. I suppose I didnt suspect that at all when I started this. So yea you guys did hit the nail on the head. I dont really know how to go about measuring even though I do have an idea on what I want to measure... from the sprocket side spacer to the center seam of the wheel. on each wheel. then compare the difference. Then swap carriers. See how much closer that gets me. then shave off the rest. But like how do I measure from the sprocket side spacer. Ok so I need one of those 90 degree ruler thingy's.

he rushed and half rigged everything and it broke again the next day. all the while patting himself on the back for "trying". and never giving a damn about scientific process. it is commendable to try but still not wise to do shit the same wrong way for years. I just like to have things figured out before I go into it.

yea. thats how my dad liked to do stuff. I suppose it gets down the road sometimes but I'm really just trying to do this the right way and do it once. Because we're not in that age anymore. Also I can't just add penny washers to a situation that needs metal taken off...

n imean. 750n

ok but you didn't just walk up to the machine and start pressing buttons. surely you had at least somebody looking over your shoulder for a while. Not trying to make a thing out of this but once again I dont even HAVE the equipment necessary... Once again the place that does will not take the whole bike... wheel going on is a 1992 750 slingshot wheel (american 750m not w so just call it a 91 same difference, powerjet carb 750...). going on totally stock efe. So far it looks like I need a gs500 brake hanger on the other side. Bored out to fit the spindle. This will allow me to fit the gsxr caliper upright as the stock efe one and then I can use not the stock efe anchor arm but at least I can use the original mounting point with another anchor arm.

you didnt jump in and teach yourself out of the blue how to run cnc equipment. I was addressing cockneyrick who obviously has no qualms about leaving things halfassed and riding down the road. And thinks I'm being silly that I dont just smash forward and do the same. I only meant for cockneyrick to kindly keep his advice. He can hardly remember how he did anything and now he's basically saying it's all off center anyway but looks ok to him and rides ~ok. That is all I meant.

so yea... if somebody who knows what they are doing could get back to me on this. I really would appreciate it. I like to ride not just take photoshoots.

you're running the gsxr sprocket carrier with half nuts as explained earlier. Well after some RESEARCH I've caught on to a BETTER way of doing it. You use the efe sprocket carrier which not only spaces you closer to where you need to be. but also when you shave the spacer off for the proper fit. you wont need to use half nuts. ALSO you wont need to space the front sprocket so far out which will help save my output shaft. internet. research. patience. done the goddamn right way. that is how I do things.

people around my area know fuckall about modifying bikes properly. And I dont have a lathe as mentioned earlier. I only have one spacer and I'd like to not have to keep ordering new oem wheel spacers. There's all kinds of reasons I'm just trying to avoid the trial and error part. Because also as mentioned before the machine shop does not want the whole bike sitting there. I am not confident in my mechanical abilities to try and shave down any spacers with the equipment and experience I have. Just trying to find somebody who has done this before to do more than just show off how they did it. But actually explain legibly. So I can just go and copy them... And do it right the first time. I dont understand why thats so hard to understand. It's what the internet is for. Nice job. you're obviously a whiz at this and you're being modest. I'm not that good and I dont have the time to fuck up. So I'm asking please if somebody could just remember...

quick response would help. If I could tell the machine shop exactly what they need to shave that would help immensely sorry dont mind me. but yea it would be great if i could just call them and say "it needs this much taken off"

when I fitted an GSXR wheel and carrier the offset was 11 mm outwards on the front sprocket, I got this with EFE Carrier 3mm inboard towards the wheel So all I need is the efe carrier? or I need the efe carrier and then take 3mm off that. I dont quite follow?

I need to take some plastic off and get a better look. Ive been busy. All the screwdrivers I have dont reach those ridiculous up and under screws to take the tail off. My tool situation is in need of updates... Also I'm still going to have the machine shop do their thing with the wheels. That first post is a shit idea on my part first of all. But even as that may be. If the swingarm were tweaked. I shouldn't just line the wheel up with the front and get on with that either. It's not like the spacers themselves got pancaked in an accident. So my logic tells me that the new wheel ought to be spaced on either side exactly as the stock one. Relative to the center of the wheel. Also I dont know wnybody that will take the whole bike and trust them not to charge me an arm and a leg and do this. And I of course dont have my own cnc shop to work with. I can't just fit the stuff and take another hair off with my own lathe. I dont have that stuff.

well it's still an air cooled frame we're talking about doing this with.

see that sounds reasonable. worthy of consideration for dependable street build. And then folks are also saying optimally I should have the bottom end re-spec'd as well with tighter tolerances. And then address the weak points of the clutch. That should probably be the first step.

well the deck height seems to be figured out already. take off 2.5 mm supposedly. wonder where that does leave the compression though?

I'll get pictures here in a bit. Funny you mention swingarm as I was taking a good hard look at things last night. If I layed a rod from the taillight across the gas cap and rested atop the guages up front. Everything lines up perfectly. The subframe does not appear twised or tweaked from the rest of the bike. the grab handle is perfectly level compared horizontally with the tank straps. It is indeed the swingarm that appears to reach over to the left some. Basically taking a good hard look up the rear of the bike. The swingarm itself is looking more like the culprit. I will try to emulate as best I can what I'm seeing with my tablet camera...