boilerdude

Suppose there wasn't enough metal. What if I had a large ring newly welded around the outside of the hub so that there was... Btw it's all welded solid. Nothing comes apart.

Ok I can clearly see this is personal for you. You want to see all chicanes gone and buried in the ground and forgotten. I am going to try and salvage these. Thanks to EVERYBODY ELSE. for their HELPFUL and POSITIVE input working towards a solution.

Try installing an 1100 engine and see if that fixes it.

for some reason I assumed bandit...

You need a stage 3 jet kit to go with those. You can't just slap them on and go. I would recommend the stage 1 or 2 (cut a hole in the airbox) kit instead. For reasons. Like you can still leave it out in the rain. And personally I have never been able to retain the throttle response of having an airbox since I've run open filters. Others advice will vary.

These are all excellent suggestions. I'm asking sprocket specialists if they have any experience doing improvised cush drive solutions.

Excellent. Talking to sprocket specialists now. Why do I need a shim between sprocket backside and hub? theyre meant to rest against each other. It seems like that would only set off my chain run... Not sure i get that part. Just put in inserts, and bolt it on. Why a shim on the backside? Also could somebody please explain the cush drive thing to me in more words than just "I wouldn't". Like why dont you just go ahead and inform me of whats been happening to the supermoto guys. That would be much more helpful. Rather than just the same old platitude for the 5th time. Somebody please follow up the "I wouldn't run without a cush drive" with your reason for why. Just one person. please. Communicate this issue in it's entirety for better understanding. Thumpers tend to have more engine braking COMBINED with the fact dirt bike riders tend to not throttle blip downshifts. Or even use the clutch at all besides stopping and going.

Sorry I didn't mean to come off rude. But we're talking about how to make them better. You obviously had a horrible experience with these in their original form. And also under moderately extraordinary conditions. I'm gonna try to both make them stronger and also perhaps not pull on them quite so hard. Also I googled that last acronym. Doesn't appear to be a known thing. I have no idea what it means. 8 letters is too advanced for me. they look like that. 2 and 1/2 inch inner lip. 6 holes. I was thinking scrap those holes and tap new bigger holes in between. I say that because these ones are outside of the "lane" a little bit and there's not a whole lot of metal left on the outside. You say it sheared the bolts right off. So ok hows about bigger ones? And not turbo power but ~140 hp dot head build. I shift with the clutch. I blip downshifts. I ride smoothly. I still dont understand why I cant just do BIGGER bolts and be done with it... Do you guys keep saying "dont run without a cush drive" becuase it'sthat much harder on the bike?

Thinking about just having a machine shop tap new bigger holes (drilled all new in between the existing holes). Then have sprocket specialists make me the sprocket. That should at least be "less" of a liability right? p.s: Idgaf I'm running them anyway... those 3 spokes are boring they look stock and yes these are still bling. STILL. finally got the wheel off. Of course it is non cush drive. But the bolts and threads are decent still. Compared with a 5.5 slingy wheel. they are same. not 6 inch. Perhaps there was also a 6 inch

The dot head is a nice trick for stock pistoned bandits. Raises the compression by a whole thingy. If you're already installing pistons (which are presumably right around 12:1 on their own) also adding a dot head would put you at 13:1 or more. At which point you need race fuel only.

maybe in the future. but I got these special bling wheels for now

I have some laying around my room. But I'm in U.S.

that sounds almost equally destructable under turbo power. not that thats happening immediately anytime. but what if I just have a shop drill and rethread everything bigger? I'll admit i'm lazy and I dont own any bike stands as of yet. I'm used to bikes with a centerstand.

got any pictures I can show my machinist buddies.

who would know how to do this nowadays?

Is there a way to tell with the wheel on the bike? seriously what kind of horse shit is that. off road only rated wheel. because "oh yea they kinda fall the fuck apart have fun with that". never thought to research that much about a wheel. my luck they are probably sans version.

I dont know too much but I advise against turbo 600-750 bikes... So much money and trouble. Then it makes 160 hp and it's constantly on the ragged edge of blowing something apart. general consensus you should find an 1127/1157/or even a 1052 teabag and dip it into the gsxf. And then turbo it. We'll call it the turbo teabag.

copy that. Sounds like we have a winner.

So this means there are 2 completely different versions of these wheels? Or the same wheel can be run with or without a cush drive. in which case I may (%.01 chance) be able to find one.

All I see is sprocket bolted to wheel. I can't see underneath. Reckon I will have to take the wheel off to see.

could possibly rub at full extension you mean. Or you mean if I come down hard and bottom it out it may rub. pretty sure the vtr1000 was largely unchanged throughout its production run. could be wrong but I bet theyre all the same.

how important is the cush drive? does it need a cush drive?

It's true. If you just try to steep the living hell out of one teabag. You're just going to have more bitter tea. You need a bunch of tea bags brewing all at once for good rich tea.

please tell me why you ask. What is the significance. If it doesn't have one what does that mean?

Is there a version with and without or is there something missing if I dont see one? Going to look now. I didn't know about any cush drive discrepancy. I figured if it's on the bike and rolling it must be complete. All I see is sprocket bolted to wheel...