Gammaboy

Figured I should write a list of shit to do somewhere, if i write it down it'll be easier to work through. necessary purchases: 1) Oil solenoid set (unless i figure out repairing a damaged barb) and oil lines 2) New front brakeline 3) Oil pump (if I fuck up the barbs swapping them back) 4) Oil tank (and cap and sensor if I can use the Tyga one) 5) Welding time 6) fasteners for front guard etc. 7) battery Things to do: 1) Swap barbs back across to unmodified oil pump 2) Mount oil solenoids and plumb it all in. 3) Make lower mount for sub radiator 4) Skim heads and adjust chamber volume. 5) Finish coolant barbs, get radiators/thermostat/Ypiece welded. 6) Sort moving oil tank (again!) - possibly use Tyga oil tank - may include moving battery mounting. 7) Shorten Clutch Cable 8) Sort throttle cables 9) modify airbox/move air solenoids 10) new front brake line, fit new pads 11) Rebuild/replace rear master 12) Finish mounting front guard

Straight spoke SV can't be heavier than Slingy, surely?

Yam MT03? looks like a 4.5" version of the R1/R6 5 spoker, which is quite light. Aprilia RS250 rear wheels are light-ish, but not super light - probably lighter than the slingy wheels. Also, SV650 wheels are 4.5" too, should be lighter, and close to a drop in.

I do love this thing, but the multiple levels of rearset bracket bugs the fuck out of me... rearset, to multi adjustable plate, to height adjustable plate, to frame - on something with so much custom billet and fabrication it's a bit naff.

I see you're not here to fuck spiders.

Bloke I know down here has: RG500 Katana GS1000S RE5 and GT750. He's doing Oldskool pretty well.

The way AntiDive functions by definition trades front end grip for reduced dive. Surely the fact that it's not existed anywhere since ~1988 is enough evidence that it's not worth the effort?

Anyway, this is my upgrade:

They're fucking terrible, your MOT testers are on drugs.

That's not much of an upgrade over the GS brakes!

The wire wheel hubs will take a rotor on each side. It's pretty easy to upgrade the early front brakes to a set of Gurls blouse VFR800 rotors and SV650 calipers with some brackets and spacers.

From memory, while they'll fit, the bearing surfaces are a different width (and you might need to run the GSXR rockers?). Better off with cams built for the head.

Or use a M10 Bolt instead of a Banjo bolt for the line into the anti-dive.

Knock up a set of sleeves. Those 4 pad brembos are supposed to be a major upgrade over the 2 pad ones. Just check the bore sizes on your masters - they came in 5/8" and 3/4" bore and look otherwise identical...

Prepare to be underwhelmed - that master cylinder needs to go in the bin - the one one my kat is terrible, and fucking around with different bore sizes doesn't help - the Nissin radial master is just crap.

Managed to get a little workshop time, machined the new thermostat housing top (conical bit) and finished up the lower housing, and modded the y piece to fit... Just need to get the filler neck and outlet barb welded to the upper, the y piece welded, and the radiator barbs welded... And trim the excess flange on the upper. Lump of 3" bar stock to show how the thermostat housings started... so much fucking swarf.

Looking at the fiche, they're for breathers. http://www.mickhone.com.au/partFinder/fiche/suzuki/1985/gsx-r750/carburetor#ficheZone

The anti-dive works by ramping the compression damping right up under brakes - basically turning the front end into an overdamped pile of crap under brakes, resulting in it skipping across the tops of bumps and reducing your levels of grip - not ideal under brakes, and why everyone abandoned it in the late 80s. Disconnect it, put emulators in and move on with life! I do recall seeing someone do what was basically a cartridge conversion on the internals, but pretty sure that was with a set of Posi-Damps off a GSXR or RG500.

So, wirings pretty much done, need to refit it and just check everything before wrapping it all up. Have managed to get some lathe time, finished the head holding fixture so I can set the squish and chamber volumes... Also had the laser cut blanks for the sub radiator mount show up - first one I didn't quite get the bends in the right spot, second one was bang on. Have also turned up some of the new spigots for plumbing in the sub rad. Just need to finish the custom thermostat housing bits, and get it all welded up. Getting closer....

I think I'm probably the one who's pointed the finger at the closed end cap. Back story - I was running K&N style filters made by Vance and Hines - these had a quite good bellmouth moulded into them - I'm not sure if the same shape filters from K&N have the same, never having had a set. The bellmouth was however quite short, and a tighter radius than the ones Mikuni supply for RS series carbs. Carbs were set up as good as I could manage. Anyway, I swapped from the V&H K&N style filters to the shortest Mikuni bellmouths combined with these Ramair filters: Immediately upon starting the bike, i noticed less pulsing of the carbs/carb rubbers at idle, and the thing flat out seemed to carburette better all through the rev range and at all openings - more than could be attributed to the different filter flow, or the different bellmouth radius, so I suspected that what I was seeing was due to a reflected pulse off the flat plate not being there with the ramairs (With the V&H filters it had a real 2-stroke like kick in the rev range, was smoother with the later setup). Some time later I moved to longer bellmouths (Mikuni's "55mm" units), and saw a slight loss of topend, and a large improvement in mid range (may not actually be a loss of topend, just felt less topendy because the midranges was so much better) - if I still had the V&Hs it would be interesting to back to back it across the 3 setups. Either way, it performs waaaaaaaaaaaaay better with the 55mm bellmouths and ram airs than it did with the V&H/K&N filters.

Thanks!

They're compatible all the way back to the GS hubs.

Do you really have to start a new thread every time you want to ask a single line question about the TL1000S/R cooling system? Can a Mod combine the 5 TL1000 radiator threads by Spirit into one?

What the frig has 54/56mm forks?

As far as I know, yes, the hub is the same width.